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Are these ignition coils ready to replace or can I wait? (Pictures)

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Garage Boxwood Lightpole, Jul 1, 2023.

  1. Garage Boxwood Lightpole

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    2006 Gen 2 Prius with 268,000 miles.

    The engine's been ticking for as many as 8-12 months now. Louder ticking when idling, faster and quieter ticking when rpms go up. It's annoying and I don't think I can do much about it, but it's an observation that may be relevant.

    I just replaced my spark plugs because my idle was rough after the car sat for 5 weeks while I waited on parts for a hybrid battery replacement and one other related job. While idling: the car shook a little bit when the engine lugged, rpms fluctuated abnormally, and it would slowly bog down. Additionally, one time I turned it on and had a horrifying clunking noise lower down in the car... The car had noticeable power loss on acceleration. Within a day or two of the 5 week period without ignition it threw P0300, P0302, and P0304. I figured I'd start with spark plugs accompanied by a few other cheap repairs on the way.

    Repairs with observations:
    -Ignition coils: When I made it to these I found that the top of the engine had a significant amount of dirt. The ignition coil gaskets had some grit where they're supposed to make a seal, so they may not have sealed perfectly. Coil 4 had significant moisture on the bottom of the ignition coil gasket. I carefully cleaned the schmutz away from the orifices (heh) and thoroughly cleaned the engine block where the ignition coil gaskets make a seal, I wiped the ignition coil gaskets clean, and I swapped the coils from 1 <> 3 and 2 <> 4 on reinstallation. There's a little more info on the ignition coils in my question at the bottom.

    -Spark plugs: See images below. I'm asking about replacing my ignition coils because (they're expensive and) the spark plugs were likely the cause of the misfire. I've never pulled plugs this bad from a vehicle of mine... I just got this Prius 1.5 years ago and this is my first spark plug job on this car. I replaced them with OEM parts from the dealership.

    -PCV valve: See images below. Nasty. Replaced with OEM part from the dealership.

    -Cleaned mass airflow sensor. See images below.

    -Cleaned throttle body. No images because it wasn't too bad. I followed the TSB.

    After the above repairs, the engine runs very well but it still ticks. The idle is steady and the acceleration power has returned. There's no clunking noise. I only mention the ticking because I read that one potential cause is the ignition system.

    Should I replace the ignition coils (see images below) or can I wait? Coils 2 and 3 have tiny cracks beginning to form and coils 1 and 4 have noticeable cracks.

    20230630_135016.jpg 20230630_134955.jpg 20230630_141653.jpg 20230630_141623.jpg 20230630_145932.jpg 20230630_150745.jpg 20230630_125733.jpg 20230630_125934.jpg 20230630_130054.jpg 20230630_130151.jpg 20230630_133022.jpg
     

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  2. Kenny94945

    Kenny94945 Active Member

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    Ticking?
    If you think this is ignition (electricity) you could try starting the engine in a dark garage and look for "lightening" bolts.

    As a trick to find a spark leak, you could install a test/ spare spark plug into the coil's spark plug wire boot (one at a time) and start the car, with the spark plug and coil assembly lying on the top of the valve cover.

    Typically if a coil is cracked, yes, it is leaking electricity and could tick, so replace.

    But, audible ticking I would have thought valve train.

    Good hunting :)
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I'll pass on to you a lesson I learned about the MAF sensor. The Prius, being a Prius, has enough new stuff, that I thought the same as you did, but the portion you (and I) cleaned is the temperature sensing bulb. The actual MAF heated sensor portion is down inside. I'll put a link in this post shortly with a thread that has my 'lesson' in it. Hopefully it helps you also!!

    P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1) | PriusChat
     
  4. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Nice detailed write-up.

    IMHO - at that mileage, I would preemptively replace them. In my experience, they usually fail or start intermittently missing past 150K. I had an OEM coil on my GMC start intermittently missing around 240K. Couldn't find it until it completely failed @ 260K. Didn't trip the CEL, no pending codes - it would just appear and disappear on hard runs up the mountain. I decided to do all 6, since they were all OEM and I figured that at least one or more of the other 5 would most likely go too. Sometimes a shot-gun approach is appropriate. No change in mileage, but intermittent lost of power was gone.

    Just my 2 cents.....
     
  5. Garage Boxwood Lightpole

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    Thank you. Per your and @BiomedO1 's replies I'll go ahead and replace the ignition coils, though I'll check for sparks in the dark. I won't perform your spark leak test since I now plan to replace them anyways.
     
  6. Garage Boxwood Lightpole

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    Thank you for your reply! I did notice the sensor hidden deep within the plastic housing after I took my pictures so I cleaned it, too. I didn't grab a picture of it because it seemed like it would be hard to take, but I did clean there as well.
     
  7. Garage Boxwood Lightpole

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    Update:

    The car ran very well for a 1.5 hour drive out of town last night. This morning I started it up and got the following codes: P0A0F (battery code) and P3190 (engine code). I found this post with the same codes.

    • I've already cleaned the mass airflow sensor.
    • I've already cleaned the throttle body, though I did notice a small amount of oil-colored reside down past the throttle body in the bottom (that's the intake manifold, yeah?). I'm not sure if it's enough to be my issue so I don't think I should look in that direction.
    • My gas tank is near-full. It should only be missing 1.5-2 gallons.
    • My oil is not overfilled. I was 1/3 between "low" and "full" on the dipstick recently, but when I checked just now (with the engine warm) I was at the "low" mark on the dipstick. I'm due for an oil change as I just hit 5,000 miles since the last one.

    What I plan to do:

    • Get the oil change I just came due for (800 miles ago).
    • Replace ignition coils per above post and replies. Maybe that helps with this, maybe not.
    • If not, I can replace the mass airflow sensor.
    • If that doesn't work, I saw Todd (from Tampa Hybrids; buy a car from him if you can. He rocks!) detail a fuel pump test in the link above. If it's my fuel pump, I'll figure out which year vehicles can donate a gas tank/fuel pump to my 2006.

    I was curious about the ignition coils, but I primarily started this thread because I figured my repairs in the initial post would be the start, not the end, of my woes lol.
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    There's a buttload of coils out there too You can buy some real nice ones You can buy some decent inexpensive ones that work well and you can buy some total junk so just be careful It shouldn't be too difficult to sort out etc I bought some that cost me I don't even remember I think they broke down to about $35 a piece they're still in my Gen 3 working just fine thats woman driven daily
     
  9. Garage Boxwood Lightpole

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    Update:
    Haven't had a chance to do any more maintenance as I got in from out of town late last night.

    The warning lights from my last post (red triangle, check engine) all went away as the day went on yesterday. The car functioned normally. After the lights disappeared on their own, I cleared the codes. I drove around the town I was in all day, then 1.5 hours back home with no issue after the initial error event.

    The next morning, I received the same error codes. Yesterday when I got the error, the car ran on the hybrid battery alone until the battery ran out of power. Powering off and on resulted in the engine starting, the car running, and the day proceeding as described. Today, the ICE engine will not start. The car will not go into IG-READY. The codes are the same, but in addition to the red triangle and check engine light I have the VSC, swerving vehicle, and I think one of the small orange lights with the exclamation point. It may have been both of the small orange exclamation point lights but I forgot. The error lights were pretty much all on. Still just P0A0F and P3190.

    I'll update again after trying maintenance. For now it seems relevant to mention that the error has only popped up when first starting the car for the day, that it temporarily resolved yesterday, and that it came back today and wouldn't fix itself.
     
  10. Garage Boxwood Lightpole

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    Final Update:

    To summarize the most recent issue (after resolving the misfire) for future troubleshooting:

    The following sequence of events was highly repeatable and happened the same way every day aside from one day where I didn't have time to resolve the fact that the car wouldn't shift into drive and so I took a different car.

    I had codes P0A0F and P3190. At the beginning of each day when I first started the car, these codes appeared along with the <!>, swerving car, ((!)), ABS, VSC, and check engine lights. Generally, putting the car into drive as soon as I turned it on would get the ICE to start and there wasn't an issue for the rest of the day. On a few occasions, the ICE wouldn't start. The car ran on the hybrid battery until it died. At this point, turning the car off and on and attempting to shift into drive immediately got the ICE to start.

    On two occasions, the car wouldn't shift into reverse or drive. Waiting on the hybrid battery to die/turning off and on several times generally resolved this, and I could get the car into drive and start the ICE.

    Once the ICE started, the car was good for the rest of the day. The second or third time I turned the car on, all warning lights except for <!> and check engine would be off. I only had <!> and check engine at this point in the day. Later in the day, ALL warning lights would disappear. The car would start and function as normal with no error lights. At this point in the day, I cleared the codes. The next morning, this process repeated.

    Again, the previous observations were highly repeatable and happened every day.

    Resolution:

    As mentioned above, I was curious whether my ignition coils needed replacement. I ordered four new Denso ignition coils (OE Manufacturer, though cheaper than buying from Toyota) and replaced the old ignition coils. In addition, I ordered a new Denso mass airflow sensor (also OEM, though not labeled by Toyota) and replaced the old one.

    One of these two replacements resolved the issue I had with codes P0A0F and P3190. It's been four days and I've yet to see the highly repeatable observations noted earlier in this post reappear. I'm marking that particular issue as resolved. I want to note that the issue with P0A0F and P3190 appeared AFTER resolving the misfire earlier in this thread. The replacements in my initial post resolved the misfire, the new codes appeared, and this is how I resolved those codes.

    I also got the oil change I was due for after replacing the ignition coils and mass airflow sensor. That didn't change anything. The engine still ticks. Best advice I found for the this is to save up some money and ignore either until it's time for a new engine.