Are these the parts I need for an oil filter housing conversion?

Hi all, I had a terrible time changing my oil last time. You guys aren't going to believe this, but the technicians at the dealership overtightened my oil filter cap. Unbelievable, right? Taking it to the dealership was a one-off because I was in a rush, I'll be changing my oil myself from now on. However, I want to convert to a spin-on oil filter. From a previous thread I gathered that these are the parts:

Prius Gen3 Oil Filter Conversion

• Oil Filter Bracket (15609-0T060)
• Union (90904-04006)
• O-Ring x2 (96723-24020)
• Flange Bolt x4 (91551-F0835)
• Oil Filter (90915-YZZF2)

I have a 2011 Prius Two. Is this EVERYTHING I need for the housing conversion itself? Do I literally just take the 4 bolts off, replace the o-rings, put the new one on and that's it? Thanks y'all.

 

Do you have any suggestions for where I can buy the parts online? I HATE HATE HATE dealing with my dealerships. I tried ordering online and set my shipping address to my parents house since I live in an apartment. I get an email 2 days later that my order was cancelled because of the mismatched billing/shipping addresses. TWO DAYS. and on a friday. Absolutely ridiculous.

 

As much as I like his videos his smugness always gets under my skin. Anyway, he doesn't really address the conversion being attempted here. There is nothing aftermarket being used here, it's just a different housing for the oil filter. But as he mentioned, I'm not 100% sure the canister will bypass at the same pressures. Is there any way to confirm that the conversion will bypass at the same pressure?

 

Are the oil filter bypass valve specs known for both sets of filters? The convenience of a spin-on oil filter isn't worth the risk of using an oil filter that is out of spec, for me. As AMD said the oil system is a crucial system that isn't worth taking risks on. If the specs are basically the same I'll definitely go with the conversion, but I'm not sure if anyone knows the specs. I can't find them anywhere.

Found this good write up on toyotanation:

OIL FILTER BYPASS VALVE

Oil filter bypass valves come in various pressure specs, depending on the manufacturer and the filter media restriction. Some pressure specs you may find, include 8 psi, 16 psi, and 22 psi. But, here is where many people get confused, because they don’t understand what these pressure specs mean. Some people think the bypass valves open at those pressures due to the pressure generated by the engine’s oil pump. And since engine oil pressure is far higher than those pressure settings, they think the bypass valves are always open, but they are not sure. So, let me clear up all that confusion.

Those bypass valve pressure specs refer to oil pressure “differences, also called delta or pressure drop” between the OUTSIDE of the filter media where engine’s oil pump pressure is pushing on it, and the INSIDE of the filter media AFTER the oil has passed through it. Oil filter media by definition will always create some restriction, and therefore some oil pressure drop. This pressure drop is the actual oil pressure that the engine itself see’s AFTER the oil filter (so, oil pressure gauges must be plumbed in AFTER the oil filter). The less restrictive the filter media, the less pressure drop you will see, and the more restrictive the filter media, the more pressure drop you will see. When there is a pressure difference equal to or greater than the bypass valve pressure spec, the valve will open.

Here’s an example:
Let’s say we have an oil filter with a 10 psi bypass valve spec. And say our engine’s oil pump relief valve allows the oil pump to produce no more than 65 psi, with hot or cold oil. With cold oil, the oil pressure can easily reach 65 psi even at lower rpm, while hot oil will take more rpm to reach 65 psi. So, we fire up a stone cold engine with cold thick oil, and the outside of the filter element see’s that 65 psi. But, because cold thick oil has a much harder time passing through the oil filter element, there would be a pressure drop from the outside of the filter element, to the inside of the filter element, of MORE than 10 psi, so when the pressure drop reaches 10 psi, the bypass valve opens and your engine is getting unfiltered oil.

So, as you can see, the oil filter bypass valve opens semi-regularly during cold start-up and during warm-up, if the engine is run too hard before the oil is up to normal operating temperature. The fact is, the filter media is highly restrictive to sufficient oil flow, when the oil is cold and thick, if the engine is run too hard during that time. So, oil filter bypass valves are designed to open under cold oil and/or aggressive cold oil driving conditions, in order to prevent oil starvation to the engine. Once the oil warms up and thins out, the bypass valve will typically not be open because the pressure drop will be less than the bypass valve’s spec. To minimize the amount of unfiltered oil going through your engine, you should always run an engine easy until it gets up to normal operating temperature.

It is a total MYTH that the bypass valve only opens if the filter media is totally clogged up with debris. If the filter was totally clogged with debris, an open bypass valve would be the least of your worries, because that would mean your engine has been badly damaged or destroyed, unless you had not changed the oil filter for countless years and it had an enormous number of miles on it. If an oil filter is changed at any kind of reasonable interval, it will never get clogged with debris unless the engine is badly damaged.

 

So I found that for engines that use the 90915-YZZF2 are specced for 8-11psi bypass valve, according to Wix. Is there any way we can find out the bypass valve psi for engines that use the original oil filter?

 

Not sure why you keep calling him ADM, it's AMD. Second I never questioned his expertise, I said he's smug. He always frames things as if to say "Yeah you probably didn't think of that, huh". Especially in that video, his attitude is just irritating. Third, as I said previously, he doesn't address this conversion in his video. This is using all OEM parts. As I just found out, if you look at the 2018 Prius oil filters, some models have the same oil filter as my 2011 and some have the oil filter I'm converting to. That would indicate that the two systems are specced to be reasonably close, so much so that they're interchangeable on the same engine. Still hoping someone can give more concrete confirmation on that, though.

 

Yes I understand the bypass is in the oil filter. However different oil filters are made for different bypass pressures. If an oil filter system is designed to idle at 20psi and you install a 10psi oil filter, you will always be bypassing the oil filter. Unfortunately I can't find the bypass specs for the 3rd gen engine. But looking at Toyotas history and the filter interchangeability on 2018 4th gen, I think it's safe to say it won't cause any issues. I would love to hear someone chime in with solid facts, though.

 

I understand what you're saying. I know the bypass valve is in the filter, the issue is that different filters are set to bypass at different pressures. It's important to go for a filter that bypasses at the same pressure. As stated previously I think it's safe, but still no hard confirmation. I finally ordered the parts, however.