Battery cooling fan

Here is the first discharge data sheet again since line 12 was a bit messed up in my first screen shot

 

Makes sense and thanks so much! I noticed that a few modules, when tested individually with a "high precision watt meter and power analyzer" (the last image's data), would hold unbelievably strong for a long time but then crash at a complete free fall towards the end of the 6v target (that's why I accidently discharged beyond the 6v target on some of them). At first I thought these must be messed up modules as well but then later thought maybe that is actually a sign of a strong module, where it gives its all until it is near empty, then crashes, does that sound right? I'll go ahead and be on the look out for 5 decent used modules. Any reputable suppliers you guys know off of hand? Do I need to give them my data so they can match me with modules that will be in balance with my current ones? I've done this repair in the past a few times but always had heavy guidance through someone I met here. He also supplied my modules but he indicated last time that he wasn't interested in selling individual modules any more, his business is making whole packs himself and selling those, which I totally get.

Second question: Last time I did my other Prius' battery, I threw in the towel and bought all new modules after months of testing, data collecting, and receiving data that didn't always make sense. Because of this, I have 28 modules in a box in my storage loft. Of the 28, only 2 are marked as definitely good. However, they have sat in a box for over two years, probably three. Any chance these 2 "good" modules are actually still good? I can analyze an individual module with the equipment I have (my analyzer is pictured below if that helps understand what I'm able to perform or not perform) but I can not charge up an individual module so that I can then run the analyzer on it. I guess I could pull them out and see if they have over 7v on them and perhaps I could analyze them. Would a goof module still hold the full voltage despite being stored for years? I.E. if I pull out my old modules, test just their voltage and don't get a good voltage on them, is that a bad module, or just one that needs to be charged back up before one can determine if it is good or not? Thanks!

My camera has lost ability to focus apparently, isn't technology grand?!.

 

A little more info on my old modules. Seems I actually marked 4 as good, not 2. After sitting in a box for about 3 years the strongest module is now 6.93v, this was not one I marked good but that doesn't mean is wasn't, just means I wasn't sure. Of the four I marked as good the voltages are currently reading as follows: 6.61v, 6.29, 6.34v, 5.96v. I could dig up the data that led to the conclusions that these four were good modules if that is of any help.

An interesting find, my battery analyzer is powered by the module itself since I don't have the optional external power supply. None of these modules have enough juice to power the analyzer enough to read the data on the screen. Some are strong enough to light the back light of the tiny LCD screen but the numbers are too faint to be seen, but 4 of them do not even light the screen up. Oddly the ability to light the screen up or not is not dependent on the voltage reading. For example, one module reads 6.61v on my voltmeter and will not light up the screen of my analyzer even faintly, yet another is reading 6.34v on my voltmeter but has no problem lighting up the analyzer screen's backlight. Even more odd, is that of the ones that will not light up the back screen, 3 of them were marked "good" when I put them away 3 years ago. The fourth and final one that had been marked "good" is the the aforementioned 6.34v, aka the lowest voltage that does still light the screen. It's clear I do not understand battery technology because this makes no sense to me.

So I have 5 modules, ranging from 6.34v to 6.93v, all of which manage to power the analyzer screen's back light. Additionally, I have 4 more, ranging from 5.96v (I only didn't weed this one out because it was marked "good") to 6.61v. Should I take the 5 strongest, regardless of whether they light the analyzer screen or not, or should I take the 5 that light the screen? Or are these all crap and I should buy some used modules from a reputable business?

As always, thanks in advance!

 

TMR-JWAP,
I have to ask if you are reading the headings on each column. It appears you took the weakest voltages from the last column, data collected when the battery was well below what the Prius will ever allow. The result is that the 5 modules you suggest replacing are actually some of the strongest while operating in the range that the Prius will allow. Meanwhile, #11 which I suspect to be the cause of my failure, drops to 5.97very quick (while in the Prius' operating range) while all the others remain 7.1 or higher. Isn't this the classic and obvious cause of the failure? This is a module you suggested leaving in the pack. I can see by other post that you have made that you are experienced and knowledgeable in this subject, so I ask again if perhaps you just gave the data a glance over and perhaps did not observe at what point these readings were taken. I also acknowledge the fact that my understanding could be pretty off.