Bench testing a used Generation 1 Traction battery?

I did a forum search but couldn't find anything applicable. Is there some steps I cant take to bench test a used traction battery outside the car before buying it? I know its not a fool proof way of knowing that its good, but some tips on what to look for and stay away from would be appreciated.

 

He's asking 200 bucks. I figure for that price I cant go wrong unless it has some blatantly obvious damage.

 

Thats what I figured. Im trying not to spend more money on getting this car running and driving than I can recuperate by parting it out.Bob, I will do that in the next few days.

 

What do you guys think? Worth 200? Can you tell me anything based on the stickers? It has "CORE" written on it in marker, so its probably gonna need rebuilt/reconditioned.

 

Jeff, I already ordered a H4 Pigtail to make my own closed circuit tester. I know you don't like "Kiwi" but I got the idea from watching his Youtube videos. I also ordered a 3 position switch so I can activate high or low beam on the H4 Bulb. I already have a ton of alligator clips and leads I can use to hook to my Fluke multimeter. Still on my list of things to order when funds are available is Mini VCI, and a good digital programmable RC car type battery charger to charge individual modules.

 

The guy selling me the gen one pack has a ton of Prius parts. mostly gen 2 and 3 stuff. He's a mechanic and doesn't need the gen one pack anymore. He assured me every module is at least 7.4 and said I could remove the cover and test them if I want before buying it. I'm hoping he may make me a deal on gen 2 or 3 modules in the future to rebuild my extra traction battery. I

 

Has anyone ever seen an entirely shorted out traction battery. The known bad cell from the car, every single module except one has either 0.0 or 0.1 volts. One single module, has 5.4 volts. Also when I tested the 12v battery when I took it out of the car, it read 0.1 volts as well. This leads me to believe that something has shorted out and drained both traction and 12 volt battery.

I picked up the used traction battery from a wrecked car today. 29 modules are 7.4-7.8 volts. two are 6.4 volts and 5 are 0.1-1.6 volts.

 

I cant afford the 250 dollars for 7 good cells with out at least knowing the car doesn't have other things wrong. I'm going to use my Reaktor charger to try to charge up the low modules, stick it in the car with a good 12 volt battery and see what the car does. If it runs and nothing else major is wrong with it, ill spend the money for 7 good cells. So far I've invested about 700 dollars and still haven't found out if the car will even run. Im trying to keep a lid on my spending to guarantee if the car is a dud I can at least recoup what I've spent.

Just a little update. So I took apart the dead traction battery, i've got all the bus bar copper links soaking in vinegar. I already did the nuts, they came out pretty clean, just tarnished. Anyone know an easy way to remove the sealant from the bus bar assembly?

I reassembled the modules in the dead traction battery in Parallel and put them back under compression. I'm going to try a little experiment and see If I can revive any of them. Question, id like to charge several modules at once. How many can I safely charge at once hooked up in parallel?

 

Right now all I have is a 1.5amp 12v smart charger. Would that be enough? I ordered the Reaktor 30amp 300watt tonight, and a 360 watt power supply from Amazon should be here Wednesday.