Best preventive maintenance 90k miles

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by TheKracken, Aug 24, 2017.

  1. TheKracken

    TheKracken Junior Member

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    Hi all, what is the best preventive maintenance for my 2011 prius with 90k miles? I am doing an oil change right now and I use 5k OCI's with Pennzoil Ultra 5w20.

    Should I change the transaxle ATF and coolant?
    Engine Coolant?
    What should I do? My wife and I have a baby due here any day now and we will be moving to utah in a little over a month so this might be my last chance with a garage to do everything I need to do. I will continue to change oil every 5k though.
     
  2. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    Both coolant
    Trans fluid
    Brake flush
    Spark plugs
    Egr cleaning
    Engine and cabin air filter
    Brake sliding pins lubing
     
  3. TheKracken

    TheKracken Junior Member

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    Just finished taking the entire underbody panel off, first car I've had that still has it on....really don't like it. Takes too long to take off and I doubt I will get it right putting it back on. What are the consequences for leaving it off?
     
  4. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    Oil catch can
    Clean egr cooler, egr pipe, egr valve, intake manifold, clean injectors, install new spark plugs.
    Check oil level every week of driving and top off as necessary. Driving 4k miles and having an oil pressure light go off saying your 2quarts low is too late and can do irreversible damage.
     
  5. eliteconcept

    eliteconcept 700 mile club, top tank mpg 69.5

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    just curious why you are set on 5k oil change intervals? Toyota recommended interval is 10k. I mean you can do what you like, but 5k will just be wasting oil. Also may want to leave that underbody plastic cover on, the thought is it provides some water protector for parts within the engine. Just an idea.

    Given this may be your last chance with a garage and easy access to work on a car for a while I echo all the suggestions already made. Nutzaboutboltz has it spot on and he has great videos showing how to do these things.
     
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  6. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    I agree with the 10k 0w-20 synthetic oil. Although your car is 2011, I might expect some issues with oil consumption...

    Also, the underbody plastic is suppose For aerodynamic to help with fuel economy and also protects the components underneath there.
     
  7. TheKracken

    TheKracken Junior Member

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    Working on trans fluid and coolants right now. But I wouldn't feel comfortable greasing the sliding pins. Might try to get to the plugs and egr cooling as well.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Wash out all the plastic fasteners in hot, soapy water, work the mechanisms, make sure they're grit free. Then you'll have no problems with them. Having some decent pry tools helps a lot:

    IMG_7446.JPG
    (The tool on the right is a simple paint can opener. It's very handy for prying the heads of the push-in caps, especially in tight quarters. All three are handy though. Often you want to use two tools in concert, to avoid damaging the fastener. Grit jamming the mechanism is the main problem, and the more often you remove and clean them, and get familiar with them, the better.)

    When reinstalling, start at the front, tuck the panel under the panel ahead of it, get a few bolts in, and leave them loose, till all fasteners are installed. Take care: there are two of the plastic fasteners that are a bit larger (maybe have grey heads), that go at the flap at the rear of panel. I'll include an attachment, a techinical service bulletin pdf, you can see the location.

    I would put brake inspection, a complete brake inspection, not just pin lube, ahead of plugs and EGR cleaning. The US schedule calls for a complete in-depth brake inspection every 3 years or 30K miles, whichever comes first. A lot of owners, and dealerships, apparently did not get the memo.

    If you've never done brakes before, tread cautiously. For starters, disconnect the 12 volt negative lead at the outset, and after reassemble, pump brake pedal multiple times to build up pressure, and THEN reconnect the 12 volt negative lead. Also, when reassembling the rear brakes, be very careful with caliper piston alignment: you want the pin on back of inside pad to fall BETWEEN the spokes on the caliper piston face. And be firmly seated thus, by multiple brake pedal applications, and a test drive. Don't apply parking brake until the previous are done.

    For the pin lube, SilGlyde Brake Lubriicant is good. For all other points of contact, between pads, shims and caliper, a sparing application of Permatex Anti-Seize works.

    To check rotors, only really needed if you're feeling pulsing, a dial indicator (with magnetic base) and 0-25 mm micrometer are needed.

    I'll attach a Repair Manual excerpt on the brakes.
     

    Attached Files:

    #8 Mendel Leisk, Aug 28, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2017
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