Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

You didn't drop the coolant? IMHO the coolant passages collect almost as much junk when the engine is taken apart…

 

The car is back together and running just fine, despite the fact that I have an extra bolt and a non-matching nut left. These likely belong to some wire harness near EGR cooler. May figure it out later… or not.

At first startup got 3 scares in a row. First when the engine, after initial chain tensioner rattle, suddenly began knocking and throwing codes. But of course it would work much better if I plug the MAF sensor in!… The second scare happened shortly after when I saw white smoke coming from behind the engine. Did I forget to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts?!… Nope, that was just liquid wrench residue burning out. The last scare was when I noticed a large pool of fluid coming from under the car. Guess what, a week outside in rainy weather… The AC had to pee!

Time for a test drive.

Edit/update: 60 mile test drive, everything works great.

PS: At the next oil change I'll install the OCC.

 

Sorry to bump this up, but can those with head gasket failures comment on my thread here?:

Head gasket fixed - likely to repeat?? | PriusChat

Thanks!

 

But a lot of guys have responded there with fantastic suggestions.
Whatvother message donyou want to get?

 

What tool needed to take off main bearings and connecting rods.

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I happen to agree with you in rebuilding what you got. Buying used engine you never know what shape it is in unless you pull it apart.

Only buy used engine if block or something else is cracked.

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....or an engine you've the history from a junkyard. I doubt such info exists with the yard guys.

 

I paid the 19.99 for a Carfax on the VIN for the engine I bought. Most yards have the VIN on file.

 

Unless they have x-ray vision no report can tell condition of engine.
Example mine was perfect right up untill it wasn't.

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The engine I installed was out of a wrecked vehicle that was just past its first oil change. And I had it apart for inspection/head installation. So I feel extremely confident in its condition.

 

Rod bends becouse coolant leaks into cylinder and during compression stroke physics take over and liquid can not be compressed crank shaft does not stop due to powerful electric engine turning it. Weak point is the connecting rod which then bends.

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Did you have any confusion on which rod to buy?

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I felt confidant in condition of my engine right up untill head gasket blew out.

And I'm a mechanic by traid.

I'm sure you'll get many miles out of a newish engine.

Comment was not intended for super low mileage engine btw.

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Point taken. My suggestion to anyone doing a swap, since the engine is already out, especially if the replacement engine is also from a Gen 3, is pull the head and replace the head gasket. That should set you up for years of trouble free service.

 

I never looked at maintenance schedule. But now I wonder if retorque head at 200k miles is in there infact I would suggest replace head bolts at 200k. Elongated head bolts from the engine running for that length is probably the cause of head gasket blowing.

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Head bolt retorgue is not in there. Any thoughts on the method: just cinch them all? Or loosen and retorque?

Quite a production too: the engine mount, crankshaft pulley, timing chain cover, valve cover, cams, all have to come off...

 

I would loosen as per directed in disability and torque in standard assembly.

The thing is the combustion is probably stretching the bolts. After so long they could provide enough slack to allow cross flow in head gasket.

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But really spend the $59 on new would be even better

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The spec for the head bolts tightening is 49 Nm, followed by 90*, followed by 45*. All that of course in a specific sequence on all 10 bolts, starting at the middle and working out from there.

During the angular steps, assuming these are torque to yield, the bolts will be stretched into the plastic deformation zone, as designed. This means that "retorquing" is not as simple as it would be on normal fasteners (that are not designed to yield upon installation), where you might just loosen them and re-torque to the specified torque. Similarly, they should not be re-used. The angular steps cannot go forever - each progression into the plastic zone moves you closer to the point of fracture.

Removing all bolts and replacing with 10 new bolts should work. No comment on how likely this would be to fix anything. And BTW, I've had my Prius for about a month now, so my knowledge is mostly based on other cars, engineering, and physics.

 

Only problem is: you cannot access the head bolts without removing the camshaft housing.


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