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Bought a 2006 w/ 87k miles, might have P0A80 issues already

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DWerner, Jan 31, 2015.

  1. DWerner

    DWerner New Member

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    A bit of an update: I checked the 12V battery before I turned the car on this morning and it was reading 12.2V, which seems a little low but not terrible. I also drove the car about 40 miles today and got ~47-48 mpg, probably due to a combo of turning off the A/C and not driving in terrible traffic for a change.

    Yeah I'm wondering about the inspection myself... the car will be giving a code if the lights come back on but I don't think any emissions will be failing, so I wonder if they'll pass it anyway.

    If you're talking about the state of charge on the MFD, there's been nothing abnormal at all. The battery indicator has never fallen below 5 bars.

    AutoZone definitely didn't clear the code, as I essentially hooked up the OBDII scanner and checked the codes myself when I was there. I was concerned that the dealership cleared the codes and lied about it after I brought the car to them, but I have no proof of that at the moment so it's a moot point.

    I'm going to try to take the car to a local hybrid mechanic early this week to get the battery checked out. Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll try to update once I've gone to the mechanic and heard about the state of the battery.
     
    #21 DWerner, Feb 1, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2015
  2. DenToyPri05

    DenToyPri05 Junior Member

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    Having recently gone through a steep learning curve with all things Prius battery related after my 12v died, and now with my hv fully assessed and showing only 40-50% life, I think you should first find out what the state of the hv is...get the codes, share them here. If I sound like I'm projecting, I am. I can't stress how much of a one-step-at-a-time approach is going to keep you calm. First things first. If A, then B. If not A, then Z.

    Whether it sucks or not, it still needs initial assessment. CARB state or nor CARB state, find out first what the hv battery is doing (or not doing), then If A, then B; if not A, then...

    However you go about your solution (dealership help, reman, brand new, with or w/o a DIY install), take this an opportunity to learn a baseline for your car. It's a different kind of car ownership and it's kinda cool to see where this technology differs from anything you've ever driven before. And, just like many forums, this one has it's share of hardcore enthusiasts, experts, novices, and everything else in-between (even some voices that sound like they also double as CraigList rant trolls). Pick and chose. Enjoy. Learn. Revel...you get 45+ mpg on a bad day!
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, 12.2 is terrible, replace it before looking before chasing for ghosts.
     
  4. DenToyPri05

    DenToyPri05 Junior Member

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    > If you're talking about the state of charge on the MFD, there's been nothing abnormal at all. The battery indicator has never fallen below 5 bars.

    Just a heads up...my SOC on the MFD showed an steady increase in charge up to 8 blue bars on my way to get the battery assessed: city streets, 35-45 mph depending on zone, and steady slight incline. The erratic SOC that I witnessed was on highway driving: 55-65 mph for about 50 miles, some hills. On a steady decline, SOC showed only one pink bar and didn't move up during the entire descent.
     
  5. DenToyPri05

    DenToyPri05 Junior Member

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    @bisco
    > yes, 12.2 is terrible, replace it before looking before chasing for ghosts.

    but 12.2 is before starting the car...? don't step on brake, press start, hit display, and get to the screen that shows readings...12.2 isn't bad, right? if you then step on the brake and start the car, the volts should show 14.2 or higher...?
     
    #25 DenToyPri05, Feb 2, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2015
  6. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Senior Member

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    They are not allowed by law, at least this is what I was told in Advanced.

    with respect to 12v bat the easiest way to check is to connect voltmeter, and then turn car on but not to ready so engine doesn't start. If battery is bad you'll see voltage dropping quickly below 12v.

    Also it maybe not bad idea to invest into torque or engine link. Torque is $5 (link is $7), there is a free version also, and generic OBDII bluetooth plug ~20$. Just beware that if you are iPhone user, Engine Link needs a specific WiFi plug which is more expensive.

    When my Gen3 was hooked up we took it for a ride, and the information available on OBDII included max voltage diff btw modules, which changed under the load.

    Traction battery can be rebuild/re-balance, there are numerous instruction/videos on net, for example:
    Rebuilding a Hybrid Vehicle Battery Pack | Home Power Magazine


    If you don't feel like DIY, you can have someone to do it good luck
     
  7. DWerner

    DWerner New Member

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    The 12.2V was before starting the car, after it had been sitting overnight. I though the typical range there was like 12.3-12.6?
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the 12.2 should be at least 12.5. get a new battery. don't think of it as a 12 volt battery, think of it as a 13 volt. that's the new voltage. mine is 12.7 after sitting overnight, it's almost 3 years old.
     
  9. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    In my opinion, it is highly likely that you had a weak 12V battery causing your problem/warning lights/DTC's. The fact that the DTC's have not come back is a very good sign. When a Prius sits on the car lot, the 12V battery slowly discharges. A test drive will not charge it adequately and it will get worse and worse with more test drives. Additionally, the fact that you were able to get 47 mpg tells me your car is fine. These cars love to be driven regularly and when they are not, you get things like this happening. I think the car will be fine.
     
  10. DWerner

    DWerner New Member

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    I hope you're right, it does seem like a reasonable answer. I've driven the car almost 300 miles since the lights turned off and they haven't come back on yet, and I've gotten about 46 mpg during that 300 miles. Still gonna try to take the car to a local hybrid mechanic later this week so I can get the battery checked out. Wish me luck!
     
  11. DenToyPri05

    DenToyPri05 Junior Member

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    Fingers crossed!! Tell us what you find out.
     
  12. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I recommend you get a Mini VCI cable and TechStream software. Every Prius owner should have this. There is a really simple test you can do yourself. Use TechStream to look at the live battery data. This will show the voltages of all 14 module pairs in real time. The static voltages will not tell the whole story. You need to put a drain and a charge on the battery. A "forced charge" is done with the car running in drive and the brake and gas fully applied. Your Prius will just sit still and charge the battery. Give it about thirty seconds. Record the voltages while under charge. Use a camera, print screen, or a helper. A discharge can be done with the car running in reverse and the gas and brake applied. It is best to have the car warmed up so the gas engine stays off. Apply enough gas to show a drain on the battery but not so much that the gas engine turns on. After about thirty seconds again record the voltages. In a perfect battery all the voltages will rise and fall together. Weak module pairs will have a wider voltage swing. In my experience a difference between module pairs of 1.2 to 1.3 volts will trip the error codes.

    Brad
     
    #32 strawbrad, Feb 3, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2015
    edthefox5 likes this.
  13. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    12.2 V is actually nearly flat. You need to charge up your battery overnight (12-15 hours) with a good modern smart battery charger and then let it rest for 4 hours. Measure the 12V battery voltage again. If it is not better than 12.7V you need to start shopping for a new battery. Given that you have said you got ~47-48 MPG, its possible that the battery is recovering now that you are driving it more than when it sat on the lot.

    In addition to this, put the headlights on and monitor the voltage. If it quickly drops to under 11.8V, you need to replace it.
     
  14. DWerner

    DWerner New Member

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    So update #2: Just brought the car to a local hybrid shop and let them do a stress test on the battery. Apparently the battery was very balanced (all the modules were between 17.1 and 17.3V, I think?), but the capacity was not so good. Think the mechanic said the battery started at 60.5% and dropped to 41% during the stress test. He said that the battery/modules didn't need to be replaced but recommended that he condition the battery to restore the capacity. Anyone have any experience with this kind of thing? How well does conditioning work? Is it worth it considering the current state of my battery or would it be better to drive it out longer and condition in the future?

    Also, side question: If I brought this info to Toyota, would it be enough for them to replace the battery? I mean, it's technically not broken or anything, but I got the P0A80 code and now have stats to show that it's not in great shape. I'm gonna have to beg for a goodwill warranty so I feel like they might not be willing to replace it if the battery is in OK shape.
     
  15. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    jeff652 is the one with real data on how well the grid charger works. Do a search for his posts, for example
    HV battery maintenance suggestions | Page 2 | PriusChat

    It would be better to do the balancing sooner rather than later.

    It is not possible to know how well it will work on your particular car. Certainly Toyota will do nothing without a failed battery code showing. They don't concern themselves with the capacity, only what the car says is acceptable.
     
  16. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Yeah, I agree with nh70, A grid charger would be an excellent idea for you. But lets look at reality. Is it necessary, no, will it help, yes. If it were me, I'd buy a grid charger and do the balancing myself. Then periodically thereafter.