Brake Actuator Issues possibly

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by kswahl1, Jun 11, 2019.

  1. kswahl1

    kswahl1 Junior Member

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    I've got an 2007 Prius with 350,000 miles on it. The past month or two I've noticed the brake actuator pump is running pretty much all the time. Every once and a while when I start it up the red BRAKE light comes on and it beeps but goes out quickly.

    Then yesterday the VSC, ABS, (!) and emergency brake light come on and beeps nonstop. I kept driving for about ten miles and the brakes worked fine but the brake actuator pump noise went away. I noticed the left front rotor and rim were really hot. I haven't got the codes read yet but I'm thinking this is a bad actuator. I've found a used one on EBay near by for $275. Any advice or things I should check before going about this?
     
  2. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    1) Yes there is an issue with the brake system. Get the codes read at the dealer, or get Techstream yourself to read the codes; Techstream is the OFFICIAL diagnostic and maintenance software written for Toyota/Lexus, and will read ALL codes. OBD2 readers, smartphone/tablet apps, and auto parts stores can NOT read ALL codes. Investigate the trouble shooting steps for the codes presented.

    2) Your brakes appear to have been neglected OR the left front caliper is bad. When was the last time the brakes were inspected? More importantly, when were the front caliper slide pins clean and re-lubed? OR, the caliper itself is bad. Check the slide pins. If they are well lubed, then the caliper is likely bad.
     
  3. kswahl1

    kswahl1 Junior Member

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    I'll get the codes read tomorrow morning at the dealer and report back.

    As far as the brakes have plenty of pad left and rotors don't seem to be scorned. I'll inspect the brakes further tomorrow.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Or the actuator is bad. It's able to control all four brakes independently, so a stuck-open valve for the left front line would tend to make that rotor and rim really hot. (Even if that's how the problem started, the rubber parts in that caliper are by now probably cooked, and could stand to be replaced as one part of getting the problems sorted. The rubber kit is cheap.)
     
  5. kswahl1

    kswahl1 Junior Member

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    I'd rather not pay to have the codes read. If you were me and trying to do the job as cheap as possible would you just replace the actuator and hope for the best?
     
  6. jb in NE

    jb in NE Senior Member

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    A certain $275 for a fix that may not work, or a much less expensive diagnostic that might avoid the $275. Hmm...

    Get the Techstream for a fraction of what the dealer will charge you to read the codes one time, and then read all the codes you want for the life of your car for zero additional money.
     
  7. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Since you will DIY, Please stop driving the car. Not safe for you and the public.

    Get codes read, so get Techstream.

    Get mini VCI w/ Techstream from Amazon ($18+). Doesn't matter who you buy from, as the cables likely come from the same one or two suppliers from panda land. May have to return/buy a few, as some cables have problems. Installation easiest on a Windows 32bit OS (XP, Vista, 7). Ask friends/family if they know someone in IT, as this person will likely have obsolete laptops laying around, and might be able to donate for free. B/C the software is hacked, recommended to install on a spare laptop; do not use this laptop for sensitive information (log in & passwords: email, bill payments, etc). This laptop is now your Toyota/Lexus diagnostic laptop. Mac install possible, you just need to search online.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If it were me and I was trying to do the job as cheap as possible, I would start with the trouble codes.

    If I didn't want to pay to have them read, I would either use the jumper Tc-to-CG method and count the light blinks (for free) or get a cheap J2534 dongle for an old laptop and read them myself.

    Just throwing a random actuator on without knowing why would be about my last idea. It's an involved, invasive job, the kind that will suck up a bunch of time and also (even when done by the most experienced person) invite mistakes that create new problems and muddy the picture.

    It would be frustrating to go through that and then figure out the original issue was something else.
     
    jb in NE likes this.
  9. kswahl1

    kswahl1 Junior Member

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    Got the codes read,

    • C1256 Accumulator Low Pressure
    • C1300 ABS ECU Malfunction
    • C1394 Abnormal Leak of Accumulator
    They said it's the Actuator so looks like I'm going to DIY with a used part.
     
  10. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Though you have 350k, you might consider a rebuilt with a "lifetime warranty". Will certainly cost more, but could save on a headache.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  11. kswahl1

    kswahl1 Junior Member

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    What a pain in the nice person job. I've gotten everything disconnected and I'm wondering how the hell Im supposed to get this thing out with brake lines in the way.
     
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