Brake Booster Malfunction

Found this in the repair manual:

Only the 17" models (and all Mexico packages) have a brushless power steering motor. The skid control (SC) and the power steering (PS) ECUs talk to each other directly, exchanging the target steering angle, the relative steering angle, and the electronic power steering cooperative control enabling signal.

The wheel angle limits are also different between the 17" and 15" models (marginally smaller for the 17"). A 17" PS-ECU would therefore never be able to achieve the extremes of the target steering angle range that a 15" SC-ECU might send it.

This is one concrete difference that I could pin down which would require require the SC-ECU to match the installed PS-ECU—not the currently installed wheels as I originally thought.

 

Try again. Act like you are buying without a lot of backstory.

 

T-SB-0079-18 Rev 1 says 04002-33347 and 04006-22147 are the "new" part numbers, but I don't know if they supersede the others. I'm just surprised I can't find the new part numbers on parts.toyota.com.

 

@Elektroingenieur might clarify, but I have this idea that 0400something numbers are kit part numbers, as might be put together for some kind of repair campaign. So an 04002-33347 likely turns out to be a kit that includes a booster assembly (of whatever actual part number) and some other stuff.

 

I believe that is right. The instructions would have suggested the dealers buy custom tools made to simplify access but those tools were not available to the public. Regardless mechanics do it with standard tools. The calibrating and bleeding is where diy might get stuck without Techstream.

 

As ChapmanF and one of the dealers you contacted said, 04002-33347 is likely a kit that contains 47050-47140 (booster assembly) and one or more minor items, like the gasket.
47050-47140 itself does not have this number marked anywhere on the assembly, so I doubt anyone who ordered the kit would be able to confirm if they actually received just the ordinary booster assembly + extras (likely) or something totally different (unlikely). The booster assembly I ordered has the following part numbers marked on the individual components:
47210-47310 (ECU)
47200-47040 (master cylinder)
47270-27030 (booster)

 

Looking in the right documents, I think you can match up that 'mark' with the newer assembly part number.

 

I honestly can't tell you which part numbers they used. The paperwork just says Gen 3 ABS pump and brake booster replacement with no part numbers. I will say they did not have my VIN number before I took the car or when they told me they had the parts in stock when I made the appt.

 

It's not that the minor item costs $400, but rather that when one buys the kit they are probably being grossly overcharged (to the tune of $400) for both the booster assembly and the minor items combined.

The only parts I needed when I replaced mine last weekend were the booster assembly and the gasket (4478502060). I did have to clean up some threads (M10×1.0) where the brake lines enter the assembly. The booster itself came flashed with a new calibration out of the box so there was no need to update it.

 

Wow, $1600 is not easy to justify if we are not sure if the rest of the car will not need another repair for 12 years old car.

 

I had the exact same problem. My code was C1391. I emailed Toyota USA and they denied my claim saying that I've passed the 10 year mark. I have a 2010 Prius V at 110K miles with 17" rims. My local Prius repair shop quoted me $700 with used part and 1100 for new part. He said the pumps almost never fail, only the actuator that fails and since I have the 17's there's not many used actuators on the market that fits mine. He couldn't locate one. I gave him my VIN# and 04002-33447 part number. I thought he was gonna use that part. However, the part that came in was 47050-47150. I asked him to use the new part number. He got back to me and said the new part number would cost $400 more. If I had to do it all over again, I would ask the shop how much the labor would cost if I brought my own part because my final bill was $1111.76, 710 plus tax for the actuator and 350 for labor. I could have gotten the part for less than $600 and the total repair would have been just under 1K. My take is, the car is 12 years old now. the less I spend repairing it the better. I don't need the latest and greatest. I only want to repair what's broken as cheap as possible. In my case only the actuator broke, not the pump. He said most of his customers with failed actuators are well past 180K.