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Brake booster pump runs every 15-30 seconds

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Sneakingfart, Jun 11, 2022.

  1. Sneakingfart

    Sneakingfart New Member

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    Hi everyone,

    I'm new to this forum because frankly this is the first problem I have had with my wife's Prius. It's a 2012 Prius Two with about 130k miles on it. We have other cars, so downtime is not an issue, but we would like to fix this problem and keep her car on the road for several reasons. The big reason is that this car allows my wife to use the HOV lane to get to work, and she parks at work in a small parking garage that fits this car perfectly.

    I was driving her car the other day and noticed a whirring sound coming from the driver's side dashboard every 30 seconds or so. More often when using the brakes. Some research on this forum pointed me in the direction of the brake booster pump. There was a very helpful post by mr_guy_mann here: whirring noise, both while running and after stopping | PriusChat

    Using the Autel Maxi AP200 scan tool I confirmed the problem. The accumulator sensor pressure sensor voltage rapidly drops from 3.6V to 3.2V, at which point the pump kicks in, and this happens every 15-30 seconds. So, the issue is leaking valves.

    Now that I know the problem, what I don't know is what I need to replace. The consensus is that I need to replace the complete ABS hydraulic assembly (pump, accumulator, and valves). Problem is, I can't find the part number for that entire unit. I found the brake booster assembly, and I found the pump assembly. The pump works fine and sounds fine. Can someone please point me in the right direction for the part or parts that I need? I understand that it's not cheap, but I don't want to buy used parts. If they are rebuildable, I can try, if it's worth it, but I'm guessing probably not. I do plan on doing it myself, I understand the bleeding procedure is very involved, but the Maxi AP200 has the software built in to do that. I am not a mechanic, but this is more of a hobby for me. I have rebuilt manual transmissions in the past. And like I said, I don't care about downtime for the car, we have other cars, so I can take my time waiting for parts. Thank you everyone for your help.
     
  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    If you're doing it DIY style and you can take your time and it's a hobby a used low mileage part with warranty is the way go because once you do this job once it won't need to be done again for many years and will be way easier the second time.

    But if you're really serious about still driving the car for another decade then maybe new might be worth it? But the price difference is massive and with today's gas prices likely never going back down, do you really see yourself driving this same car in 2032?

    You also might want to read up on the details of the difference between doing this job with Toyota tech stream software versus doing it with an Autel Maxi AP2000.
     
  3. Sneakingfart

    Sneakingfart New Member

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    Thank you for your reply. Do we see ourselves driving this car for 10 more years? Hard to say. It's purely a cheap commuter beater for the wife, but her commute is about 70 miles round trip, 5 to 6 days per week. So I do need it to be reliable. But the car has literally zero other problems, so I think it's worth keeping it going for now. If I can find a good used part with a warranty, I would absolutely consider it. But I don't want to start scouring junk yards to pull parts from. Do you know the actual part that I need? Is it the brake booster assembly?
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!
    esiest thing would be to go to a parts department and ask
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Right, you found the two units in question:

    [​IMG]

    The upper one contains most of the valves (and a bunch of other stuff).

    The lower one contains the electric pump, the accumulator, and only a check valve and a relief valve. It's unlikely for the relief valve to be worn out, as it never even does anything in normal circumstances.

    As pressure is bleeding away all the time, even when you are not braking, I agree with your assessment that some valve somewhere is probably at issue. And it's that upper unit that has a dozen or so valves in it, compared to the two in the lower unit, so if you had no way to tell which unit was at fault and could only guess one or the other, the odds would be in your favor guessing the top one.

    However, you might be able to improve your odds even further by getting a mechanics' stethoscope and probing around both units for a fluid-hissing noise during the 15 or 30 seconds when the pump is off and the pressure is bleeding away.

    The fluid will be moving in both units because of the leak, of course, and both liquids and steel tubes conduct sound pretty well. But you might still be able to find, with the stethoscope, a spot where the hissing is loudest.
     
    #5 ChapmanF, Jun 11, 2022
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2022
    Half Vast and PriusCamper like this.
  6. Sneakingfart

    Sneakingfart New Member

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    Perfect, thank you. I forgot about the mechanics stethoscope, that sounds like a great idea. Also, I wanted to make sure there wasn't something else I may have missed, so that narrows it down to the two units. Question then becomes, should I just replace both, as the pump is also a known failure point. Would really suck to replace the booster, only to have to do everything all over again because the pump fails in six months. I'm actually now leaning towards just doing them both. But the important thing for me was also to know that there isn't a third part or assembly that I am missing.

    Any thoughts on whether I should replace a likely still good pump. It'll save about $600, but I'd rather do this only once.
     
    #6 Sneakingfart, Jun 11, 2022
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2022