Brake Caliper Slide Pin Cleaning and Lubrication

Nope. You didn't specify front or back.

"To take off the two calliper mounting bolts, pull the pads out, lube the caliper pins, clean/relube the pad faying surfaces, put everything back togetether, takes about an hour."

It might be prudent for anyone preferring to have this service performed at a Toyota dealer or independent, to ask them specifically how much they would charge to inspect, clean and lube the caliper pins, effectively bypassing any mention of any other brake service.

 

Starting to tire of this:

 

That's not the post I was quoting. Next case.

 

I think people on here should just stop arguing and "Just do-it" lol...

 

Unfortunately this is true...in fact this usually applies to all "preventative maintenance".

 

i figure, if it's not in the manual, don't bother. but i think they at least mention inspection, which may lead to some type of service.

 

The problem...most people wait until something breaks...instead of servicing. There is a reason for my signature

 

guilty as charged.

 

You need to notice where the people live that are pushing for the "brake maintenance". They are in Canada, Boston and other northern climates that have snow and lots of winter crud on their roadways.
Us in SoCal live in a different world with the lack of real winters and the road crud you find in the northern states.
Also, the Canadian Prius manual calls out for the brake maintenance which probably indicates problems there but the US Prius manual doesn't.
Personally, I'm not going to worry about it until it becomes a problem.

 

There's actually two types of brake maintenance mentioned in the US schedule: "visually inspect" and "inspect" of "brake lines, linings, pads and rotors". Words to that effect, haven't got it in front of me.

Still, I think it falls short: adding the expression "caliper operation" would rectify that, my 2 cents.

I talked to my local Toyota dealership Service Manager; he recommended a thorough inspection something like every 30 months.

Anyway, let's hope when your problem develops its not on a steep downgrade, or with a pedestrian in front of you. Yeah I know, getting dour, but really: catch it before it happens.

 

Thanks for the update, I am going to ask my mechanic to do this with my next service.

 

The 3m silicone paste or Motorcraft version work pretty well. Especially the Motorcraft version.

I've had issues with the Permatex purple stuff drying out.


iPhone ?

 

which one is this?
the ceramic extreme one or the ultra disk ?

 

Ceramic.


iPhone ?

 

Maybe premature to blame Sil-Glyde? I mean, down the road, you could open it up again and find the same thing happening with the Permatex.

It seems odd, that your front caliper pins are looking ok, but the rears were nearly baked. Raise the rear end, and check wheel freespin with the parking brake released?

It does not seem normal, for the rears to be running so much hotter. I can't see the engineers being happy with this, designing with such a difference.

I found it was very important to:

1. Make sure the pad pin was in between piston spokes.
2. Make sure it stays that way, by (post assembly) multiple pressing of the brake pedal, to ensure the pin is firmly seated, prior to applying the parking brake.

On ours, if I check all four wheels after an extended drive, they're all barely above ambient temp, if anything. The rears are no warmer than the front.

 

how about using something that is actually specified by toyota?