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Brake Fluid Change Non Techstream Method

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by usando, Apr 13, 2015.

  1. usando

    usando Junior Member

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    I just wanted to confirm that the non-Techstream method of brake fluid change is entirely doable. I just did it on my CT200h. This should work for Prius Gen III as well since that's essentially the same car. I posted in the Lexus forum but somehow I think the Prius owners will appreciate this more.

    Once you put the car into ECB invalid mode, the front brakes bleed like conventional brakes. The rear brakes are flushed using the actuator.

    I think it’s best to start with the rear to flush out all the old fluid first even though the service manual says to start with the fronts. The reservoir drains very quickly when doing the rear brakes. You can use this to drain the reservoir completely and be sure that only clean fluid is flowing through the first rear brake that you bleed. Then all the other brakes will be sucking clean fluid from the reservoir. If you start with the front it takes forever to drain out the old fluid in the reservoir. You could also suck out the fluid in the reservoir before starting but why do the work when the car will do it for you?

    No DTCs were thrown when starting with the rears vs the fronts.

    Why use the manual method vs TechStream? It's a lot faster. TechStream forces to start with the front brakes. It's also just incredibly slow. If you have TechStream you can use it to clear codes if any should be thrown so you have a back up plan.


    Tools Required

    - 8 mm box wrench (front)

    - 3/16” ID hose (front)

    - 10mm box wrench (rear)

    - 1/8” to 3/16” ID hose (rear)

    - 1L DOT 3 brake fluid (you will use this much if you don't suck out the reservoir first)
     
    #1 usando, Apr 13, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2015
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  2. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    Supplement to assist.
     

    Attached Files:

    #2 frodoz737, Apr 13, 2015
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Bookmarked, thanks!
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Apr 13, 2015
  4. Steve Ball

    Steve Ball Junior Member

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    Hi All -

    Thanks for this great post. I had my Gen III 2012 Prius getting its winter tires rotated, and the tire shop said that my 'brake fluid was a bit brown'... After 3 years and 39,000 miles, it looks OK to me... but it got me thinking about it... and got me joining this excellent forum!

    My question:

    On other vehicles, I have had great success in using 'spleed bleeder' valves, basically allowing me to easily bleed the vehicle myself without a second person...

    Would anyone have any info on the size/spec for the bleed valve needed for my Gen III 2012 Prius? I'll look a little futher myself and will post an update if I find the answer out ... I'll assume it's Metric, and most likely (??) an M10, but what - M10x1.0? M10x1.25...

    Steve

    Fishkill, NY
     
    #4 Steve Ball, Jan 4, 2016
  5. drives

    drives Junior Member

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    Thanks for this info usando. I just took my Prius to the dealer to have this done as I thought Techstream was the only method.

    I've always 'gravity bled' my brakes in Hondas that I've had (Civic and S2000)- anyone know if there's any reason why this wouldn't work in the Toyota?
     
    #5 drives, Jan 4, 2016
  6. Steve Ball

    Steve Ball Junior Member

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    OK - UPDATE

    From what I can read on google and elsewhere on this forum.

    The brake bleed screw/valve (and for what I'll be buying a pair of speed bleeder valves for) is apparently:

    M7x1.0 - and 32mm in length.

    Answered my own question, and hopefully this helps others.
     
    #6 Steve Ball, Jan 4, 2016
  7. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    This method works well on a 2012 Plug-In! Just make sure that your 12V battery is full charged - the pump actuator uses enough juice to run down your battery during the whole sequence. Then again my battery is over 3 years old.
     
    #7 RightOnTime, Jan 5, 2016
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Could someone explain in the following (excerpt from Frodoz's attachment), how to achieve "while the brake booster pump assembly and solenoid running" is achieved, how to get the pump running?

    (10) Loosen the bleeder plug while depressing and holding the brake pedal, and replace the brake fluid while the brake booster pump assembly and solenoid running.*3
     
    #8 Mendel Leisk, Jan 5, 2016
  9. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    It will run as soon as you start bleeding. That causes the pressure to drop and the pump runs.

    I would recommend connecting an alternative power supply to the boost point, to avoid running down the 12V battery, though if you don't have a good way to do this, perhaps it's not advised.
     
    #9 David Beale, Jan 5, 2016
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Would hooking up a smart charger work? I'm not sure; it's unorthodox to have charger on while battery is being uitlized.
     
    #10 Mendel Leisk, Jan 5, 2016
  11. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    Yes, Pearl S is sleeping in the garage right now with a "Battery Tender" connected, and by opening the drivers door I trigger the brake pump. It messes with the "smart charger", kicking it out of "maintain" for a bit, but it seems to actually BE "smart". It goes back to "maintain" after a few hours of "charge". But you do need to have a good quality unit. The "Battery Tender" and the "Genius Charger" I'd trust. Others not so much until I test them. If they aren't "good" I suspect the AC hum on them might mess with the car systems.

    It's "winter" here, and that's time to dispose of all that pesky gasoline by driving the FJ Cruiser. ;)
     
    #11 David Beale, Jan 5, 2016
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