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  1. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    New to the forum, read a ton of posts, some problems similar to mine, but always slightly different in 1 or two ways. So first of all, United States car, 2008, Toyota Prius. Base model. When this problem first started, I could here a noise when braking, usually only if I brake medium. Light braking would usually prevent the noise. Sometimes, after braking, hitting the gas doesn't move the car, unless I pump the gas pedal a second or third time. It feels like the brake is sticking. After a few weeks, the brake warning light came on, as well as VSC, ABS, and (!). My brakes also started to grind really hard At that point, I went and got my brakes replaced, they were nonexistent, codes cleared, no big deal.

    A few weeks later, My radio started to fail, so I replaced the 12V battery, which literally did nothing, although now my voltage is slightly higher than it previously was. I took a drive on the interstate, and when I got home, I began to hear a grinding noise. Brakes got replaced for free (600 miles since previous change), I am waiting for all the lights to come back on, but I was wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this.

    I feel like the issue might have something to do with the synergy drive, or the inverter water pump. I checked the inverter pump for turbulence, and it's there, but it goes off and on. I have a feeling it isn't supposed to turn on and off in cycles like that, but I'm not 100% positive on that. Any help / advice would be appreciated. Looking to get this fixed just in case a hurricane comes, lol. My other worry is that the Synergy drive itself is the issue.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Get a dealership to check for codes: those warning lights are likely a clue something significant is going bad. Brake master cylinder??
     
  3. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    research the brake actuator extended warranty and pump recall.. both could be free fix's
     
  4. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    Well, I thought back to a few other things. The first initial noises from the brakes came after an alignment and rotation. I did one of those resets with pins 4 and 13 on the OBDII plug, and I just gave my car a test drive. The MPG was higher than it has been in a while, and that was in heavy traffic. I will give it a better test-drive tomorrow when there isn't so much traffic, just to make sure. The brakes don't appear to be making the strange noise any more either. I have been averaging 22 MPG for the last 5 months.

    I can't check the codes just yet, because when they replaced my brakes last time, they cleared all the codes. If, they do return, I will obtain them and likely just deal with a dealership, since apparently nobody knows how to work on hybrid cars. In the meantime, I will research the two recalls. I researched a bit on the pump recall, but I was under the impression that it was no longer covered after 2013. Of course, I only read about it briefly.
     
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  5. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    22 mpg ?should be near 50mpg, my 08 is... either your traction battery is dead or your brakes are on.. have you checked your emergency brake? did you hit the peddle getting out of the car? might still be partially on ... don't start jumping pins unless you want to short out the computer, to clear the codes just disconnect the ground wire from the battery in the trunk.. take it to a shop and have the codes read, the hand held readers don't detect most of the prius codes so you might have to pay a dealer.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I think you need Techstream to access everything. Maybe that's with all Toyota's?
     
  7. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    Disconnecting the battery in the trunk does not clear codes. Cute that you think that. The 22 mPG of course comes from the brakes being on. Did you read what I was saying? My brakes literally got replaced and destroyed within 600 miles. Something is causing them to not work properly. No, the Ebrake is released, as it should be. I'm not sure if you fully understand the situation that I explained, but it's all good man.
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Grease your slider pins. Yes disconnecting the 12v battery clears codes.....nothing cute about it
     
  9. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    I think im done with trying to help these people, they are all "experts" but cant do a simple brake job.. I wish them luck, Ill be lurking in the shadows between hurricanes..
     
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  10. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    Well, the reason that I say disconnecting the 12 volt battery doesn't clear the codes, is because it doesn't. When this problem originally started, my first thought was that the 12 volt battery was messing up, because I had not realized I had a serious brake issue. When I changed the battery, all the warning lights were still there, clock didn't lose time, and all my radio stations were still there. Later, through this forum, I learned, that in a prius, disconnecting the 12 volt battery, doesn't clear the warning lights, but instead, you have to short pins 4 and 13, or use an OBDII scanner.

    Now, today, I can the car a test drive out of traffic, and my gas mileage, although better, is still low. The brakes aren't making the noise anymore, but they still feel like they a holding. The reason for me doing the short, was because Firestone already cleared the codes when they replaced my brakes, but the "noise" started after an alignment, which is where shorting the pins came from, it was to reset everything. I truthfully don't think that the "brakes" are the actual issue. This is because my radio has also sort of stopped working (the speakers on the passenger-side make noise, but driver side does not. As I stated previously, after doing some research on these forums, I am considering an issue with the synergy drive, or the coolant pump.

    I checked the coolant pump for vibration, and it is clearly doing something, but it seems as though the pump turns off periodically. As I asked earlier, I was wondering if that is normal. I appreciate the help that has been offered, but my main concern is whether or not the pump should be turning on and off. If it isn't supposed to do that, then that is probably where my problem lies, and I have many symptoms similar to the coolant pump dieing. That is why I am so curious about it. I have a feeling, that if the pump isn't working right, I am missing some voltage for the radio and / or the brakes.
     
  11. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    This is the other solution that I am leaning toward. I am just worried about the dealership over-charging me.
     
  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If there is a fault in the car, clearing the codes will only momentarily get rid of the error until the car's computers detect it again. You think clearing codes will magically fix a car forever? Like it won't come back if the car senses there's a real problem? Why would you need a mechanic if you can clear codes and fix things?
     
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  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Disconnecting the 12V battery will not reset DTC logged by the skid control and SRS ECUs.

    I suggest Mini VCI to retrieve all DTC.
     
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  14. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I stand corrected. But most DTCs will get reset
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    This reminds me of a bit in Catch 22: they can stop going on bombing runs, ONCE the front line moves beyond a certain point on the map. The map is metal, and there's a magnetic string affixed to it, defining the front line. One of the bombing crew looks longingly at the map, musing aloud that their problems would be over, if only that line would move...

    So Yossarian, in the middle of the night, tiptoes into the tent with the map, and moves the line. No one catches on.
     
  16. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    Well, you may not have read all the previous stuff, lol. I'm not worried about how to clear the codes. I have an issue that is causing a brake problem, as well as my radio being weird. I have a feeling that it is a bad inverter pump. So, here is my question. Should the pump be going on and off?
     
  17. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Not sure how you went about changing the 12 V battery, but if you had disconnected the 12 V supply to the car, the clock would have been reset, you would have lost all the radio presets and your driver's side window would have needed reset. You also would have lost the trip A and trip B data. You would have also reset all DTCs except for any ABS and SRS codes.
    No, it should be on constantly while in IG-ON or READY.
     
  18. Mark Miller

    Mark Miller New Member

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    I put the car in ready, and it seems to be going on and off. I could feel turbulence, but then I couldn't. This is likely where I should start with the issue then. I will look into the recall information on the inverter pump then, although doubtful I get anything for it. At this point, I just want it replaced. Thank You for your response! I will keep everyone posted with updates. I am likely going to leave this procedure to the dealership to do, simply because I don't have a garage, but I feel Toyota should be able to handle this.
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah this would be my course of action too. Troubleshooting is complicated.
     
  20. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    My apologies I speed read through many of these posts, probably didn't read all of it. LOL