Brake squeal after rotor and pad change

Angle grinder for what? Sliding pins?

Did they put pistons in X position?

 

So they changed 2 or 4 rotors ? So if you roll to a stop using just the b mode on an empty road or driveway whatever you don't hear this noise it's only when you depress the brake pedal far enough to activate the calipers which is pretty far usually? How many miles have you put on since the pads and rotors at least a hundred?

 

Personally, I would just take it back and show them what it's doing....shouldn't be a hard fix (and they should do it for free.)

 

Check the alignment on the rear brake piston and the pads. The notches must match. Add grease on the backing plate of the pads and sliding pins. Always keep the original shims or backing plate from Toyota, they are much better than after market and usually thicker.

 

Man I didn't have any trouble with my gen 3 I just boom boom line the things up stuck the pads in slid the calipers on Make sure the slide pins are moving with my pinky and I put my new slotted cross drilled rotors on just because they were cheap and I had them and that's it never look back I think I'm using the I'm not sure what pads but they had nice thick well-made gyms they are Raybestos top of the line right now. Or very close to it I think they were 34 $36 a set and they look really nice and well made everything looks good and they stop well

 

If pins totally totally seized and wont open with wrench, then what else to do but angle grinder. It does not destroy anything but the pins.

i would take it back to shop if sound wont go away in couple hundreds miles. Maybe mention the piston position thing too..but that is so common feature in so many cars that only complete rookie mechanic make that mistake.

ps. sound is a long squeeke while car is moving or does it come as a short burst when car comes to stop? Later hints to suspension. Sometimes nasty (rusty) sounds when something is worn out in suspension. I had bad bushings in rear sway bar in other car. Horrible sound when car came to complete stop..

 

What's the miles on the car? Had the brake maintenance been kept up in past, say once every 30K or 3 years, per the US schedule. Seems like a perfect storm: independendent mechanics who "know better", and long term neglect, to the point the caliper pins were seized. Perhaps they're still seized? Or the brake booster components have air? No dash lights?

 

The pins go into holes in the caliper mounting brackets. Both the pins and brackets could be problematic. If the pins are binding (due to protracted dry condition and corrosion), refurb or replacement (of either or both) may be needed.

With the caliper off the mounting bracket the pin movement can be checked. Be cautious doing this: if for example you lift off a caliper, then open driver's door, there's a very good chance the brake system will try to pressurize, and pop out a caliper piston. My DIY approach (has worked so far), is to disconnect 12 volt neg cable before touching anything, and when everything is reassembled, push brake pedal multiple times (to get everything completely "seated", remove any excess play), and only then reconnect the 12 volt.

Doing this will lose your radio presets, set the car's displays to defaults, lose the trip meters, and cause the car do some kind of calibration rev-up for the next few start ups, no big deal. It might also require retrain of window auto-up function, but I've been lucky with that so far. Again, no big deal, cross that bridge when you get to it.

Appreciate I'm jumping the gun, you may not be interested in DIY, just FWIW. Attached has brake info, including torque values for the caliper mount bolts, should you dive in.

 

Did they replace the brake shimes? And/or put brake paste on them?
If they rear pads are wearing even, the you can remove them, clean the shimes and pads.
Look at where the wear points are on the pads and shimes and put some brake & caliper grease
on those marks. Don't forget to clean the caliper brackets.
When you don't have the correct grease on the pads and shimes, you get vibration, which caused squeel.

While you have it apart, remove the slide pins and clean them with a rag and brake cleaner.
Then grease them with brake lubricant.

 

A couple of lubes I've used:

For caliper pins: Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant
For back of pads, shims, contact points on calipers: Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant (silver or copper)

Those are readily available in North America, not sure about UK.

 

The stuff that comes with a Toyota shim kit is a quite dark gray, almost black, and comes with a safety data sheet that identifies it as Molykote AS-880N. It's this weird thick tenacious stuff that is crazily difficult to get off of anything you didn't mean to get it on. Seems like just the stuff for a shim damping grease to avoid squeals.

 

if they just cranked old pads out and banged new pads in the outcome may be far from good. It is high mileage old car so careful cleaning and fitting needed. Lubrication too but sparingly with right stuf to right place. If pins seized and/or pads have too tight fitting brake feel is bad. Back to shop i would say or DIY

 

Hello? How about an update on what you did??