Brakes question

I am going to try to discourage you from doing it yourself.

If you do try, disconnect the 12 battery first, so it will not try to do diagnostics while you have thing taken apart.

To bleed the brake line correctly you need to bleed all these paths, the techstream software allows this.

 

Maybe my English is too bad and I misunderstood the question, but for replacing the pads and/or the discs one doesn't have to open the hydraulic circuit. And without opening it there won't be any air in it and there won't be any need for bleeding.
For replacing, I can post the relevant pages of the official repair manual with the steps in the right order and the correct torques, if needed.

 

how many miles on her?

 

That's true but with one caveat. The car can sometimes decide to do a brake pressure test at an unexpected time (it doesn't have to be on for that to happen). Should that happen when the brakes are disassembled, it may cause a caliper or wheel cylinder to eject its piston, make a puddle of brake fluid, and get air in the line, which would then have to be bled. (Also, you wouldn't want your fingers in the way.)

That's the source of the advice to disconnect the 12 volt battery before commencing the work, even if you don't intend to open the lines.

-Chap

 

If you haven't done brakes before, get your work checked by someone who has, and whom you trust. They are very simple mechanical devices, but if you make one little mistake, the consequences could be dire.

You probably have rear drums, and they need a couple of inexpensive tools for the springs.

Experience helps when taking things apart.

Proper jacking and support is of utmost importance.

Any local brake shop can change out the friction surfaces, and save you some money compared to the typical dealer price. Make sure they understand disconnecting the 12V.

In addition to the friction surfaces, it may be time to flush the brake fluid. On the Prius, that is not an easy DIY. Special tools and knowledge are required.

 

For 3rd gen at least, there's offical Repair Manual instruction on replacement of brake fluid without Techstream. @NutzAboutBolts posted an excellent video on the procedure as well. Not sure how applicable that is to second gen, but perhaps you can cadge second gen Repair Manual, and/or get a short subscription to Toyota TechInfo (just google this) and see what's available.

And..., all of this is moot: it is not mandatory to bleed the brakes in order to put in fresh pads.

Still you do need to be cautious: it's likely safest to disconnect 12 volt battery negative cable at the outset, and when done push the brake pedal multiple times, before reconnecting. If you done other cars before you should be ok.

This is something that should be done tri-yearly or 48K miles, whichever comes first, regardless of pad/shoe condition, for the record.

 

'brakes' is too general a term. at that mileage, you may or may not need front pads. you should have them show you the thickness both inner and outer, and minimum spec.
also, the rotors need to be evaluated. the rear drums and shoes are usually fine, and require only inspection and possible adjustment of emergency brake.

 

Drum brakes should have periodic relube of shoe contact points with backer plate too.

Bottom line: there's more at stake than just passing some inspection. These rules and regs are for concrete reasons: periodic brake maintenance saves you from eventual brake failure/seizure.

 

depends on what needs to be replaced. my '04 was close to needing front pads at 105,000 miles when i sold. but a lot of it depends on how you drive and where you live.