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Bumblebee BeeMax installed over the weekend

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by TimmGleason, Jul 31, 2018.

  1. TimmGleason

    TimmGleason New Member

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    Well some bad news. This morning the vehicle decided that it had had enough for the day and threw P0A78, P0A94, P3004, P0A90 codes (not all at once, but I kept resetting them to get the vehicle off of the roadway.)
    Had it towed home (thanks AAA, but 2 1/2 hours wait was irritating), and there it sits.
    I have a Mini VCI and some old version of Techstream, but I have to wait until I have time to throw that on there.

    doomdoomdoomdoomdoomdoomdoom

    I thought my problems were over :(
     
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  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Oooh, those are bad combination.

    I'm not sure you will get different result, code wise, with Techstream, but wouldn't hurt you to get that up and running, just so you can look at freeze frame and live data.

    Of those codes, the most hopeful would be:

    P3004 = Power Cable Malfunction.

    because the others all point to expensive parts. If the power cable was at fault, it could cause a cascade towards the other parts, namely transaxle and inverter.

    I hope it works in you favor.


    [EDIT]
    Just looked up the diagnostic for the P3004 and it can have 3 sub (INF) codes, 131, 132 and 133. With a 131, the car is impossible to drive. With a 132 the car is drivable and with a 133 the car has limited drivability.

    Given that, you possibly have a 133. There is not much information given to diagnose P3004-133.

    DESCRIPTION
    The HV control ECU gives warning to the driver and performs the fail-safe control, according to the abnormal signal received from the battery ECU.

    DTC No. INF Code DTC Detection Condition Trouble Area
    1 P3004 133 Abnormal signal input from battery ECU
    • HV battery system
    • Battery ECU


    INSPECTION PROCEDURE
    1 Read codes.
    1. If there are other codes, fix them first.
    2. If there are no other codes replace battery ECU assembly

    I'd be inclined to inspect and check the HV battery cable and its connections first.

    The other codes have sub-codes too, which will help pinpoint the area of trouble, if you need it.

    Given the codes, you probably want to be able to look them all up by taking a subscription on techinfo.toyota.com. There is a wealth of info at your fingertip there.
     
    #22 dolj, Aug 2, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2018
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  3. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Didn't he say he got a few battery ECUs to go with the battery? One was DOA, the other one fired up fine. I think it's a bad ECU since that was what was replaced along with the battery and the code seems to point that way. Or, hopefully a bad connection somewhere.
     
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  4. 2k1Toaster

    2k1Toaster Brand New Prius Batteries

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    Correct there is no increased capacity, just the standard capacity of 6.5Ah. As mentioned, most of these kits measure at half that when new even though they are inked ontop with seemingly random capacities.

    It is possible to get 9.0Ah into a cylindrical NiMH battery like that, however the chemistry required to do that is not really compatible with the Prius longevity. It's more for medical equipment. Stuff that needs the longest runtime possible without lithium (or legacy approved designs that can't be changed without paying for re-certification) but may only last a few hundred full charge cycles. And then you replace the batteries, because it is medical and you have no choice. In a car... I'm skeptical, but awesome if true. I don't have one to actually test.

    +1. That's what was recently messed with and this type of rare error is most likely a connection issue. Especially since it worked for a bit, then stopped it is probably something simple. Problem is it can be hard to find that simple error since there are so many touched parts. But cabling would be a good one to start with. Both on the modules themselves and on the main connection in the battery pack, sometimes those nuts aren't properly installed.
     
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  5. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    Well retrospectively I was concerned when you said this:

    Two day's is just not a long enough test sample to determine success.

    Here's hoping it can still all be righted, and resolution and at least some degree of success and reliability can be reached.
    Let us know how the battle goes......Best of Luck.
     
  6. TimmGleason

    TimmGleason New Member

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    Touché!
    I may have shot myself in the foot with that comment, but who would think that after 200+ miles that the whole thing would come crashing down around ones ears.

    Hopefully it is just a problem with connections or the battery ECU is still to blame.
     
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  7. TimmGleason

    TimmGleason New Member

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    Well, my old battery ECU is here and two new Main System Relays. Will see if that fixes my problems this weekend.
     
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    good luck, thanks for keeping us posted!(y)
     
  9. TimmGleason

    TimmGleason New Member

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    OK, now a very reserved 'things are working now as they appear that they should'.

    Replaced my old ECU into the battery, checked the resistance on the Main System Relays 2 & 3 (both within the specifications noted in the factory tech manual), and hooked things back up. Tightened all connections, reattached the 12v battery (also replaced with a new Optima battery from local NAPA) and went around the lake (about 6 miles). No codes, seemingly normal operation thus far. Quick run into town and back (around another 6 miles) and no issues yet.

    I'll run some more tests with the various apps and see where we land.
     
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  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    excellent, all the best.
     
  11. TimmGleason

    TimmGleason New Member

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    Roundup Report:
    So after getting my original battery ECU shipped to me by Eli @ BumbleBee (Thanks Eli!), I set out to check all the control hardware for the new battery.(See above)

    550+ miles and no issues, no codes thrown, averaging 46.6 mpg on combined city/highway driving (Seattle area so sometimes highway driving is like city driving). Still getting weird numbers from Hybrid Assistant app in terms of fuel consumption and efficiency. Still a newbie when it comes to what all these statistics mean, if anyone want to know any specific info, I have many trips logged and can post up.

    Ran the Battery Check three times and got weird results each time. First run resulted in a 2.4Ah, second run - 12.5Ah, third run 54.8Ah. So, a bit skeptical of those results.

    Definitely happier with my original (Dorman replacement) ECU, and here's to years of more service!

    Let me know if there is anything specific you want to see from the app reports.
     
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  12. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    Best of luck!
     
  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    @TimmGleason

    If you're using the Hybrid Assistant app to do the battery test, and then using Hybrid Reporter to display the saved files report, you must completely back out and close the reporter app before you try to select another file. If you don't, the capacity measurement/estimate will be progressively more screwed up. If you close it each time before looking at another file, it works just fine.

    Unfortunately, that also means your first test may be fairly accurate............

    Try doing the report on each file after following the above info and see how they each read.
     
  14. TimmGleason

    TimmGleason New Member

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    I did not once look at the test in the Reporter, I was only looking at the instant read figures displayed on the screen during the test.
    I will dld the manual and try some proper test runs over the weekend.