C1246 and C1364 with random 230 and 237 have working techstream need help

Hey guys, facts first then the story if that is ok.

ABS, break and ((i)) lights on and disabled regeneration/breaks and loud high pitched alarm so put techstream to the challenge and this is what it says:

C1246 but no snowflake in techstream so no second code
C1364 with 230 and after a drive a 237

I am new so before I had techstream I purchased a very nice looking accumulator pump assembly on eBay for 400. From the codes I have thus far deduced that there is a front drivers side ABS sensor that needs to be replaced so I ordered one for 200 and it will be here tomorrow. I took the car for a quick drive to see if it popped up again and to my surprise the rear right hand one is now crying too. It seems like they are both connected (FL and RR) so it makes me wonder if it is something up the chain and not a sensor.

The car has been lightly front end wrecked before and hidden damage was that the accumulator pump assembly plug waterproofing was broken so I changed the plug out with one from the scrap yard. There was a tiny bit of water inside the connector and the trouble started immediately after a car wash (groan yeah I know I have read over 1000 threads here before joining lol). I guess what I am getting at is since I changed the plug end and since have gotten techstream the problem goes away (problem was the pump running a lot, even I thought it was the accumulator module) but once I clear the codes and the only two codes that keep coming back (C1246 + C1364 230) the accumulator pump behaves like there is nothing wrong with it at all. Strong breaks and only turns on for a second every 5 or 6 pumps. I pulled the ABS fuses they were all good BUT that made the codes come back. I also cleared them again then took the FL ABS wheel sensor plug off and did an ohm reading and it was 1.646 ohms dang close to the 1.7 they recommend BUT when I put it back together it brought back the same codes yet again. I then lastly took it for a drive around the block and got the same codes (C1246 + C1364 237) but as you can see with the 237 RR sensor from driving.

To me this says it is repeatedly (while stationary) the front sensor BUT how did driving it make the rear go off? As I said above I read that the RF+LR and the RR+LF are related to each other so one making the other go off kind of makes sense.

Before I even started all of this I went through the breaks and did not touch the front they were brand new but I did replace the rear shoes as they were about half way worn down and I wanted to be sure it was not anything to do with the breaks before I started replacing whatever else was wrong with the braking system.

Looking forward to your answers, I won't tell you about how it took me 2 days and 3 laptops to get techstream running. (oh wait I just did lol)

Appreciate any and all help you can give me. Going to change the sensor tomorrow when it comes in.

 

322381162_888834052111981_1008571346415339386_n by lunarkingdom posted Dec 29, 2022 at 9:39 PM

322552002_753792496117740_2464277901513017494_n by lunarkingdom posted Dec 29, 2022 at 9:39 PM

322801974_524275893012842_1382408685441026359_n by lunarkingdom posted Dec 29, 2022 at 9:39 PM

 

Update, it seems I can not initiate the linear valve offset nor the yaw procedures, following the instructions to the T, makes me think that the ABS module is not working properly, no sounds coming from it during the procedure and no lights flashing on the dash they stay solid. Leaning towards replacing the ABS accumulator module and see if the new one behaves.

 

Thought I would post todays events, I ended up swapping the ABS accumulator assembly since I bought one and nothing I did to the old one seemed to do anything and once I did at first I thought I had made a mistake as I tried to initiate the linear valve offset then the yaw procedures, and again no sounds coming from it during the procedure and no lights flashing on the dash they stay solid. At first I was bummed and then I decided I had nothing to loose by trying to bleed the system so I started up the "replaced accumulator air bleed" and it started responding so I went through the entire lengthy process which also bled all of the brakes. At that point I tried to initiate the linear valve offset procedure and it worked, I then set the yaw on a slight incline and it also worked. Once I was done there were no lights on the dash and I was starting to get excited. I took to for a ride and the red triangle of death came on. Long story short I think the hybrid battery is now toast but that's for another thread. Moral of the story, dont always believe your codes, they do mean something is wrong but could very well be caused by another problem like mine was.

 

Thought I would add, my wiring job worked perfect and the breaks are now 100% awesome and reliable (so far).