C1253 after change ABS pump

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Joseph Grab, Oct 3, 2019.

  1. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I have had many problems since July 2019 (it is now October). I will overview work done as it may have a bearing on current problem.

    In July I had a lot of shaking at high speeds, especially when accelerating or going uphill. I replaced lower motor mount, no change. I replaced passenger side motor mount - but dropped engine (not to ground, but several inches. Damaged passenger CV joint, replaced half shaft. Still same problem, but now I had ! VSC ABS lights. It would drive, but cruise control would not work. Taken to dealer, they said ABS pump needed replaced, $2400. I found salvage on eBay for $265 and replaced myself. Took weeks to get Techstream to work to bleed brakes, but I finally did. Vehicle still was bouncing / shaking. Replaced driver side motor mount, still shaking. Replaced driver side half shaft and both sides front pads and rotors. Then, finally, the shaking stopped (seems that was the problem all along). After it was running / driving fine, I replaced two front tires, all four struts, all four tie rod ends, both sway bars, and had vehicle aligned. Finally, a very smooth ride. However, in just a few days I get a high pitched alarm, !, VSC, and ABS light again (I did not have the high pitched buzzer before). I got codes C1253 and C1256.

    I swapped the known good ABS actuator from my 2005 to this 2008. My old 2008 ABS actuator looked in better shape than the salvage off eBay, so I put the 2008 ABS actuator on my 2005, which is working fine after I successfully bled the brakes with Techstream. After I replaced fuse 35, I was able to bleed the brakes. However, I still get code C1253 and I have the BRAKE ! VSC ABS lights all on. The code will not clear.

    I switched my ABS relays off the 2005 to 2008. The 2005 will run fine with its own or the 2008 relays (I left the 2008 in it). So, my problem is not my actuator or my ABS relays (all 3 came off 2005 with no error codes).

    I unplugged the ABS pump twice to make sure it had a good fit, and still have the same problem.

    Vehicle will drive but has all those lights. The 2005 is working great.

    Sorry to confuse the vehicles. I have a 2008 with known good ABS pump and relays with C1253. I don't know what else to check. I did look at my fusible link and it looks pretty good (removed clear cover, don't see anything blown, multimeter shows .8 - 1.4 on all links). I rechecked fuse 35 and it is still intact.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    18,137
    6,165
    0
    Location:
    Green Valley, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    1. Check ABS-1 and ABS-2 fuses.
    2. There is one wire to check continuity between the skid control ECU and the brake actuator. Then check that two pins for the brake actuator wiring harness are connected to body ground.
    upload_2019-10-3_16-56-50.png
    3. There are additional resistance checks that can be made, see techinfo.toyota.com to get the entire troubleshooting list. It seems that you have some sort of wiring harness issue since you've already swapped the likely components that would cause this DTC.
    4. If all of the wiring harness checks show the wiring is good then the skid control ECU may need to be replaced.
     
    #2 Patrick Wong, Oct 3, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2019
  3. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Thank you very much, Mr. Wong. I checked everything in steps 1 and 2. I did not get accurate resistance measurements as I am just using a Harbor Freight multimeter, but I did have continuity between 31 & ground, 32 & ground, and S7-29 and A2-33 (once I was able to find S7-29 (diagram was oriented like viewing from rear, which I missed, but the side with 5 and 2 finally gave it away).

    I did not do the additional resistance checks, as I do not have a Toyota log in.

    The vehicle has the four lights BRAKE ! VSC ABS, but stops well, and at least I do not get the high pitched alarm that I had when fuse 35 was blown (and C1256 code). Is it safe to drive? It seems to be.

    Thank you again.
     
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    3,079
    3,216
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    For DTC C1253, there are eight (8) "detailed codes" or INFs (aka sub-code, info code, secondary code). You may need an OBD2 device (many use a mini-vci cable and techstream) that can provide you with the needed INF to help narrow down the issue, knowing the INF can help with diagnosing the problem in a timely fashion, without wasting labor time or money on unneeded parts.

    Here is the workup for DTC C1253 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic12525.pdf
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  5. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I have Techstream and mini-VCI cable. How do you get the detailed codes? There are the buttons on the left, and the utility one I used to bleed the brakes. Is it one of the other buttons?

    Thank you so much for your help. That was a lot of detail, but I think the first sheet is the most helpful if I can get the detailed codes.
     
    Raytheeagle and SFO like this.
  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    3,079
    3,216
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Run a "Health Check", and if a subcode (INF) is present there will be a small snow flake, flower, or cloud symbol in the middle of the screen, just to the left of the DTC in question. Click on it.

    [​IMG]

    There are other areas in techstream that will also report INFs :

    [​IMG]

    Be sure to report back here with the fix to the problem.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  7. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I ran the health check. I did not see the detail codes, I am not sure why. I did click the little blue icon (snowflake?).
    The car drives well, but I think the brakes are rubbing as the rotors were very hot and the fuel mileage lower than usual. Detail 1253_3.jpg Detail 1253_5.jpg
     
    SFO likes this.
  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    3,079
    3,216
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Looks at the first entry at the very top of the first image, "Detailed Freeze DTC" which has a value of 138.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  9. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Thank you. I already swapped both relays off another Prius with no codes at all, so they are not the problem. I took the ABS pump off that Prius also, so it looks like the only thing that can be bad is the harness or connector. Thank you for your help. I believe that is beyond my ability to do. Changing the ABS pump was difficult and took hours of study, then hours to do. I think I am up a creek at this point.
     
  10. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Gentlemen, thank you so much for your help. I'm wondering where I should focus my efforts. I will be doing more testing on the wiring harness. However, I would like to go over again the history because I really think it has a lot of bearing.

    I never had any type of braking trouble or braking lights before July this year. This came after I changed the passenger side engine mount. I did not have the vehicle on level ground, so it would not come free. My sons moved the vehicle with the bolts out. The engine fell. I had a very difficult time getting the new engine mount in. After I jacked up the engine, it would not align. I believe I used a tow strap and another vehicle to rock the engine forward, at which point I could get the new one aligned. After that, I had to replace the passenger side half shaft because I had somehow damage the CV joint dropping the engine. Once I started the vehicle, I had all the lights - ABS, VSC and !. The cruise control would not work either. I took it to the dealership and they said I needed a new ABS module. I replaced it with a salvage one. It took me over a month to get techstream to work and my brakes bled. Once the month was over and I was driving with the salvaged ABS actuator, it worked fine for about a hundred miles. At about the hundred-mile mile mark, I got the ABS VSC and ! Lights and a buzzer. I now believe it was fuse 35 that was causing that problem. However, I changed out the whole ABS pump with my known good no problems 2005 Toyota Prius. (I put my 2008 actuator in my 2005 and it is working fine, despite the dealership telling me that was with the part that needed replaced.) So, after changing ABS actuator I still had C1256 problem, as well as C1253. After I replaced fuse 35, the C1256 code cleared but the C1253 never has. I still have the ABS, VSC, and ! Lights, and I believe my brakes are rubbing, but the vehicle drives fine with lower mileage.

    I am wondering what dropping the engine on the passenger side is most likely to damage. I would not think it would be the skid control ECU. But, once I changed the ABS actuator, there was the precious few miles everything seemed to be fine. Even after I swapped the ABS actuators between the two vehicles, I had no brake lights until I used the brakes 15 seconds into the test drive. I couldn't clear the lights or C1253, but it did disappear the next morning just for one drive in the yard (but never again) the morning after I started this thread.
     
  11. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    3,079
    3,216
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
  12. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Thank you for the more information. I did not initialize the linear solenoid valve or calibrate on either vehicle. The 2005 had no codes or lights before the swap or after. However, that might be the problem with the 2008 as I did change the brake actuator.

    Thank you for the part of the manual you sent the first time also.
     
    SFO likes this.
  13. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    So, in October I tried to initialize the linear solenoid valve on the 2008 (the 2005 is working fine so I did not mess with it). In order to set it, you first had to clear it. I did that, and Techstream cleared it, but will not calibrate it. Now, my brakes are hard to press, I do not have ABS, and only my rear brakes are working (I will skid, so I do not have ABS). I do not believe regenerative braking is working at all.

    My vehicle runs out of inspection this month. Since Mr. Wong said it is either my wiring harness or Skid Control ECU, I am considering swapping the Skid Control ECUs between my 2005 and 2008. If it fixes the 2008 and breaks the 2005, I will know that is the problem. If not, I am pretty sure it will be the wiring harness, which I believe will be beyond my ability to replace.

    First, are the 2005 and 2008 Skid Control ECUs the same?
    The stealership says the ABS actuators (2005 and 2008) are different part numbers, and they said that the 2005 will not work in the 2008, and the 2008 should not work in the 2005 (but it does with no error codes for over three months).

    Any thoughts on how hard it is to change the wiring harness?
     
  14. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2019
    19
    4
    0
    Location:
    Killeen, TX
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I am getting ready to take my 2008 to a different stealership. I switched the skid control ECUs between the two (2005 and 2008). They are different part numbers slightly. The 2005 (with 2008 skid control ECU) stopped fine (regenerative brakes worked), but I did not test ABS capabilities, and it had two dash error lights. The 2008 (with 2005 skid control ECU) was unchanged, all kinds of lights and only rear friction brakes.

    After I put skid control ECUs back in proper cars, I moved the inverter out of the way and disconnected the ABS actuator electrical plug and reconnected it. I had done this before more than once. After this time, I then had a high pitched buzzer alarm and the red triangle and another red warning light beside it. Nearly every warning light on the dash is illuminated and the high pitched buzzer alarm is going off the entire time ignition is on. I again disconnected ABS actuator electrical plug and reconnected, still high pitched buzzer.

    Since I have eliminated the actuator being bad (three will not make the 2008 work correctly), and I am fairly certain it is not the skid control ECU, Mr. Patrick Wong said it is probably the wiring harness. Is the plug that goes to the actuator part of the main wiring harness? Is changing that plug nearly impossible?
     
  15. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    3,079
    3,216
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Reviewing the description for C1253 w/ INF 138, and the old freeze frame data you've posted, it shows your MTT value as 0v.

    According to the workup below, that DTC/INF combination is stored when "MTT input is 3.5 V or less for at least 1 sec. (0.2 sec. during initial check) when main relay 1 monitor (BS1) is 9.5 V or more and motor relay 2 is on."

    How far along, or where are you currently stuck in the step by step workup for DTC C1253 ?

    Which codes (DTCs) are you currently retrieving with techstream?
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  16. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2013
    534
    254
    0
    Location:
    Maritimes, Canada
    Vehicle:
    Other Hybrid
    Model:
    N/A
    I know I have a Highlander but really the systems for most ABS on just about every car made are really quite simple actually. There are 4 main parts: ABS motor, accumulator (pressure reservoir), solenoid valve body (hydraulic) and the solenoid actuators (electrical). There are other systems that feed in too like various speed sensors but those are the main ABS assembly components anyway.

    I just got done fixing a C1253 code (ABS Pump Motor Relay) on my Highlander too. For this repair I strongly suggest you make sure you have a mini VCI setup and the Techstream software installed so you can view and clear all computer codes in the vehicle (not just basic OBD ones). I like to take a screenshot of the initial codes I see when doing an initial vehicle health check, then clear all the codes, turn off the car, turn it back on and then do another health check. This will ensure the codes are current and not just ones that have been stored over time.

    Here's how to run the system health check in Techstream:


    It took me a little while with a multimeter to figure out exactly what was going on with my situation and finally pinpoint the failure. I also searched online and found a ton of folks just playing parts replacement without actually finding the issue first. Under normal circumstances this might be fine but ABS systems are probably the 3rd most expensive component on the vehicle (behind the traction battery and the inverter). So in my book I'm not going to put thousands into anything unless I'm sure that will fix the problem.

    A C1253 code for Toyota means that there is a problem somewhere in the ABS motor control circuit. The ABS motor needs some pretty hefty amps so it will be one of the larger relays in the fuse block under the hood. For any testing on this at all you will need a multimeter, so get yourself a good one asap. Skip this step and prepare to open your wallet and play parts replacemnt. Make sure it has at least DC volts, ohms (resistance), continuity (beeps when connected) and diode check.......amps and Hz (frequency) are bonus.

    Something like this is what you'll need:


    The first thing you should be doing is testing your battery. With the engine off, if you see less than 12V then you have an issue there and you need to address that first (replace the battery, they are cheap by comparison). If all looks good there then pull out all the ABS relays (you can tell which are ABS by looking at the fuse box covers). To test them you need to apply voltage to the coil side and then use the multimeter in resistance mode to make sure the other contacts have closed. If you are unsure which are the coil and which contacts are the switch side, simply use the multimeter on resistance to locate the solenoid contacts (switch contacts should have infinite resistance, indicating open circuit when unpowered). If you show no resistance between any of the contacts then the relay is likely bad. Don't assume just because you apply power and the relay clicks that it works, be sure to take the extra 2 seconds to actually verify it with the multimeter on the switch side. The video below shows how to test them easily.



    If all your relays look good (make sure to test every one that is marked ABS, reference the fuse box cover or owners manual to make sure you got them all) you can move on to the next step. Once this is done (with the engine off) make sure you also have battery voltage at on the supply side of the relay contacts inside the fuse box (usually the larger contacts, smaller contacts would be the solenoid circuit). This is where I found my issue (turned out to be a corroded relay voltage supply wire on the underside of the fuse box). You test this by setting the meter to DC volts, put the negative probe (black) on the negative post of the battery then use the positive probe (red) to check the fuse box relay contacts for battery voltage. The voltage you see should be the same voltage you see across the battery posts, if you see less or none at all then you have found your issue. Mine showed 8V at one point and then when I wiggled the wires on the bottom of the fuse box it went to zero so I knew something was wrong. If you don't live in the rust belt then a shorted wire or a blown main fuse could also cause this problem. To fix my issue I simply removed the connector, stripped off a bit of the wire and both crimped/soldered the connection before sealing it all with heat shrink tubing. It was clear in my case the motor was not the issue (although I did test it anwyay just to be sure) but if you have blown a fusible link then you'll also want to verify why it blew. If you suspect a shorted wire then check the load side of the relay contact and it's resistance to ground. If you get a very low reading then you likely have a short (can be caused by a past accident) and you'll need to follow the harness to find it. If not then the motor may be the issue which you'll need to check next.

    This shows you how to change the fusible link on a Prius if that ends up being your issue:


    If you blew the fusible link (and you don't have a shorted wire) then often that issue is with the ABS motor. Testing on my Highlander was quite easy and straightforward since the ABS is not buried like it is on the Prius. Basically you will see 2 wires coming from the ABS motor and you'll need to simply apply 12V to those leads to check that you hear the motor working. I'm not sure on the Prius if the main ABS connector also contains the motor leads, you will need to verify this on an service manual connector diagram and then set up a way to test it by applying voltage to those leads only. If apply voltage to the leads and you don't hear anything then chances are the motor is toast and you'll need a new ABS system (you could try to replace the ABS motor on the Prius if you have some serious DIY skills but it's not suggested).

    This shows you how to get to the ABS unit on a Prius (be very careful because traction battery voltage is deadly):


    If you wanted to actually try and test your unit manually you can remove the motor and test it:


    On the Prius the motor is the round silver cylinder, the black cylinder is the accumulator, silver block is the solenoid valve body and the black plastic part is the actuator. Even though the video isn't in English you can see the motor being removed and then you would apply 12V to the motor contacts and ensure it spins freely without any binding/heat/noise. If you find any issues with it, they are not serviceable and it needs to be replaced. You could possibly swap it with a junkyard part but again no guarantees on how long it will last.

    If you are doing the same thing on a Highlander it will look like this:


    To test the ABS motor on the Highlander the ABS all you do is locate the box with the yellow sticker on it, open the top, remove both connectors and then apply 12V to the 2 metal posts inside (green = negative, red = positive). If the motor is good you will hear it working. The round object with the yellow sticker on top is the accumulator and the silver block with brake lines behind all that is the solenoid valve body and the actuator module (black electrical part attached to the aluminum block). On the Highlander the ABS motor/accumulator can be replaced separate from the valve body assembly (Toyota does sell them separately) but on a Prius it is unfortunately one piece so you need to buy the whole assembly. The job on a Prius isn't fun because it's buried underneath the inverter so unless you don't mind playing parts replacement and possibly getting your hands dirty several times if something fails again it may make sense to pay up for a brand new part from Toyota. Don't forget to do the brake bleeding sequence in Techstream after you install the new ABS assembly. Once you have everything fixed you should be able to clear all the codes in Techstream and there should be no more annoying ABS dash lights anymore.

    Anyway I thought this might help someone else figure out their issue and hopefully save them alot of money in the process as was my case (didn't cost me a penny to fix it considering I already had the mini VCI and multimeter).
     
    #16 MTL_hihy, Jun 18, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2020
    SFO and Mendel Leisk like this.
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    40,378
    28,925
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    I'll never be in this league, but this is one amazing thread. (y)
     
    SFO likes this.
  18. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2013
    534
    254
    0
    Location:
    Maritimes, Canada
    Vehicle:
    Other Hybrid
    Model:
    N/A
    I saw lots of threads like this when I was trying to figure out my issue but very few actually solved it other than just playing parts replacement. So I thought it would be good to show it can be done and it's not such a big mystery after all. ;)
     
    SFO and Mendel Leisk like this.
  19. Moses Bruh

    Moses Bruh Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2018
    74
    25
    0
    Location:
    California
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    By any chance do you have a link of what vci cable you got for techstream? Im still debating if i should just get a cheap 64bit cable and separate software on ebay.
    a lot of info you put up, i booked marked this thread incase my abs actuator ever fails on me completely .
     
  20. MTL_hihy

    MTL_hihy Active Member

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2013
    534
    254
    0
    Location:
    Maritimes, Canada
    Vehicle:
    Other Hybrid
    Model:
    N/A
    The Techstream software is definitely available online, plenty of places to get that (here's version 14.30.023 which works well).

    The cable is just a mini-VCI J2534 standard OBD connection interface. Again the drivers are standard for the cable too. Pretty sure I got mine off of Amazon a long time ago but they are still readily available. I would just ignore any of the software they ship the cable with because most of it is already seriously outdated (in general, there are some exceptions) or can sometimes be malicious (esp ones on ebay). Always make sure you are running a good AV software just in case. If it won't connect right away when you first try, then make sure you have your mini-VCI cable selected in Techstream as the input since the default is to use the Toyota setup instead and it will give you a connection error.

    Something like this should work fine for the cable:
    TOYOTA TIS Techstream MINI VCI J2534 interface - xcar360
     
    #20 MTL_hihy, Jun 18, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2020
    SFO likes this.
Loading...