C1253 after change ABS pump

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Joseph Grab, Oct 3, 2019.

  1. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    I have had many problems since July 2019 (it is now October). I will overview work done as it may have a bearing on current problem.

    In July I had a lot of shaking at high speeds, especially when accelerating or going uphill. I replaced lower motor mount, no change. I replaced passenger side motor mount - but dropped engine (not to ground, but several inches. Damaged passenger CV joint, replaced half shaft. Still same problem, but now I had ! VSC ABS lights. It would drive, but cruise control would not work. Taken to dealer, they said ABS pump needed replaced, $2400. I found salvage on eBay for $265 and replaced myself. Took weeks to get Techstream to work to bleed brakes, but I finally did. Vehicle still was bouncing / shaking. Replaced driver side motor mount, still shaking. Replaced driver side half shaft and both sides front pads and rotors. Then, finally, the shaking stopped (seems that was the problem all along). After it was running / driving fine, I replaced two front tires, all four struts, all four tie rod ends, both sway bars, and had vehicle aligned. Finally, a very smooth ride. However, in just a few days I get a high pitched alarm, !, VSC, and ABS light again (I did not have the high pitched buzzer before). I got codes C1253 and C1256.

    I swapped the known good ABS actuator from my 2005 to this 2008. My old 2008 ABS actuator looked in better shape than the salvage off eBay, so I put the 2008 ABS actuator on my 2005, which is working fine after I successfully bled the brakes with Techstream. After I replaced fuse 35, I was able to bleed the brakes. However, I still get code C1253 and I have the BRAKE ! VSC ABS lights all on. The code will not clear.

    I switched my ABS relays off the 2005 to 2008. The 2005 will run fine with its own or the 2008 relays (I left the 2008 in it). So, my problem is not my actuator or my ABS relays (all 3 came off 2005 with no error codes).

    I unplugged the ABS pump twice to make sure it had a good fit, and still have the same problem.

    Vehicle will drive but has all those lights. The 2005 is working great.

    Sorry to confuse the vehicles. I have a 2008 with known good ABS pump and relays with C1253. I don't know what else to check. I did look at my fusible link and it looks pretty good (removed clear cover, don't see anything blown, multimeter shows .8 - 1.4 on all links). I rechecked fuse 35 and it is still intact.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Check ABS-1 and ABS-2 fuses.
    2. There is one wire to check continuity between the skid control ECU and the brake actuator. Then check that two pins for the brake actuator wiring harness are connected to body ground.
    upload_2019-10-3_16-56-50.png
    3. There are additional resistance checks that can be made, see techinfo.toyota.com to get the entire troubleshooting list. It seems that you have some sort of wiring harness issue since you've already swapped the likely components that would cause this DTC.
    4. If all of the wiring harness checks show the wiring is good then the skid control ECU may need to be replaced.
     
    #2 Patrick Wong, Oct 3, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2019
  3. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    Thank you very much, Mr. Wong. I checked everything in steps 1 and 2. I did not get accurate resistance measurements as I am just using a Harbor Freight multimeter, but I did have continuity between 31 & ground, 32 & ground, and S7-29 and A2-33 (once I was able to find S7-29 (diagram was oriented like viewing from rear, which I missed, but the side with 5 and 2 finally gave it away).

    I did not do the additional resistance checks, as I do not have a Toyota log in.

    The vehicle has the four lights BRAKE ! VSC ABS, but stops well, and at least I do not get the high pitched alarm that I had when fuse 35 was blown (and C1256 code). Is it safe to drive? It seems to be.

    Thank you again.
     
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    For DTC C1253, there are eight (8) "detailed codes" or INFs (aka sub-code, info code, secondary code). You may need an OBD2 device (many use a mini-vci cable and techstream) that can provide you with the needed INF to help narrow down the issue, knowing the INF can help with diagnosing the problem in a timely fashion, without wasting labor time or money on unneeded parts.

    Here is the workup for DTC C1253 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic12525.pdf
     
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  5. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    I have Techstream and mini-VCI cable. How do you get the detailed codes? There are the buttons on the left, and the utility one I used to bleed the brakes. Is it one of the other buttons?

    Thank you so much for your help. That was a lot of detail, but I think the first sheet is the most helpful if I can get the detailed codes.
     
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  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Run a "Health Check", and if a subcode (INF) is present there will be a small snow flake, flower, or cloud symbol in the middle of the screen, just to the left of the DTC in question. Click on it.

    [​IMG]

    There are other areas in techstream that will also report INFs :

    [​IMG]

    Be sure to report back here with the fix to the problem.
     
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  7. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    I ran the health check. I did not see the detail codes, I am not sure why. I did click the little blue icon (snowflake?).
    The car drives well, but I think the brakes are rubbing as the rotors were very hot and the fuel mileage lower than usual. Detail 1253_3.jpg Detail 1253_5.jpg
     
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  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Looks at the first entry at the very top of the first image, "Detailed Freeze DTC" which has a value of 138.
     
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  9. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    Thank you. I already swapped both relays off another Prius with no codes at all, so they are not the problem. I took the ABS pump off that Prius also, so it looks like the only thing that can be bad is the harness or connector. Thank you for your help. I believe that is beyond my ability to do. Changing the ABS pump was difficult and took hours of study, then hours to do. I think I am up a creek at this point.
     
  10. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    Gentlemen, thank you so much for your help. I'm wondering where I should focus my efforts. I will be doing more testing on the wiring harness. However, I would like to go over again the history because I really think it has a lot of bearing.

    I never had any type of braking trouble or braking lights before July this year. This came after I changed the passenger side engine mount. I did not have the vehicle on level ground, so it would not come free. My sons moved the vehicle with the bolts out. The engine fell. I had a very difficult time getting the new engine mount in. After I jacked up the engine, it would not align. I believe I used a tow strap and another vehicle to rock the engine forward, at which point I could get the new one aligned. After that, I had to replace the passenger side half shaft because I had somehow damage the CV joint dropping the engine. Once I started the vehicle, I had all the lights - ABS, VSC and !. The cruise control would not work either. I took it to the dealership and they said I needed a new ABS module. I replaced it with a salvage one. It took me over a month to get techstream to work and my brakes bled. Once the month was over and I was driving with the salvaged ABS actuator, it worked fine for about a hundred miles. At about the hundred-mile mile mark, I got the ABS VSC and ! Lights and a buzzer. I now believe it was fuse 35 that was causing that problem. However, I changed out the whole ABS pump with my known good no problems 2005 Toyota Prius. (I put my 2008 actuator in my 2005 and it is working fine, despite the dealership telling me that was with the part that needed replaced.) So, after changing ABS actuator I still had C1256 problem, as well as C1253. After I replaced fuse 35, the C1256 code cleared but the C1253 never has. I still have the ABS, VSC, and ! Lights, and I believe my brakes are rubbing, but the vehicle drives fine with lower mileage.

    I am wondering what dropping the engine on the passenger side is most likely to damage. I would not think it would be the skid control ECU. But, once I changed the ABS actuator, there was the precious few miles everything seemed to be fine. Even after I swapped the ABS actuators between the two vehicles, I had no brake lights until I used the brakes 15 seconds into the test drive. I couldn't clear the lights or C1253, but it did disappear the next morning just for one drive in the yard (but never again) the morning after I started this thread.
     
  11. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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  12. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    Thank you for the more information. I did not initialize the linear solenoid valve or calibrate on either vehicle. The 2005 had no codes or lights before the swap or after. However, that might be the problem with the 2008 as I did change the brake actuator.

    Thank you for the part of the manual you sent the first time also.
     
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  13. Joseph Grab

    Joseph Grab New Member

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    So, in October I tried to initialize the linear solenoid valve on the 2008 (the 2005 is working fine so I did not mess with it). In order to set it, you first had to clear it. I did that, and Techstream cleared it, but will not calibrate it. Now, my brakes are hard to press, I do not have ABS, and only my rear brakes are working (I will skid, so I do not have ABS). I do not believe regenerative braking is working at all.

    My vehicle runs out of inspection this month. Since Mr. Wong said it is either my wiring harness or Skid Control ECU, I am considering swapping the Skid Control ECUs between my 2005 and 2008. If it fixes the 2008 and breaks the 2005, I will know that is the problem. If not, I am pretty sure it will be the wiring harness, which I believe will be beyond my ability to replace.

    First, are the 2005 and 2008 Skid Control ECUs the same?
    The stealership says the ABS actuators (2005 and 2008) are different part numbers, and they said that the 2005 will not work in the 2008, and the 2008 should not work in the 2005 (but it does with no error codes for over three months).

    Any thoughts on how hard it is to change the wiring harness?
     
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