Can't start the ATF fluid swap

You could take a plumbers torch with the yellow can of map gas screwed to the torch preferably a pencil flame and heat the area gently around the bolt I'm assuming you're on the correct bolts you need to be undoing with the video I can't see from here but heat will generally help a nut or a bolt to come out of metal You're not trying to melt anything we're just trying to heat it up see if that works if you're scared of fire well I guess that's that You could try a heat gun but that would be a slow process it's like a blow dryer for the shop. If you're breaking bits I would tend to thank your seriously overpowering the bit or the bit is not up to impact duty which is also possible.

 

Just being Captain Obvious: object with the heat is to slightly expand the metal of the threaded hole, so the bolt (being cooler) will hopefully loosen.

maybe buy a replacement bolt before going any further. If you can verify the bolts stats, maybe you can get an alternative hex head bolt?

 

This is a good place for the traditional advice to always crack open the fill plug first. Why? Think how frustrating it is when you can't get the drain plug open. Then think how it is when you got the drain plug open, then can't open the fill.

 

Seems silly to mention, but
keep in mind this plug is upside down....make certain you're turning it the correct direction.
Sometimes a love tap will help free stuck fasteners
Sometimes heat will do the same
I don't think I've ever, ever, ever stripped a hex socket when using the hex wrench, that thing must be stuck like crazy.

 

I "think" this is it?

90341-18051


2004 Toyota Prius Hatchback Plug - 9034118051 - Genuine Toyota Part

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9034118051

 

I have the same drain plugs on my piaggio Italian single cylinder engines in my scooters this company also makes airplanes. And some of these things get ridiculously stupid type I'm not sure why I don't know if it's the type of metal the threads the steel being screwed into aluminum or exactly what generally I try to make sure once I get them out I never put them back in anywhere near that tight. Maybe some anti-seize on the threads.

 

On our 2010 both fill and drain bolts are socket head cap screw, with 10 mm hex pocket. They're a little stubborn, but never started to strip. I used a 19" ratchet wrench, with a "hex bit socket", I think that's the terminology. Looks like this:



If you're using an Allen key with a cheater-pipe, maybe not so good.

I wish Toyota would take a cue from Honda: their transmission drain bolts are socket head cap screw, with a 3/8" square hole: just put a 3/8" drive ratchet bit in it.

 

I believe some early Toyota transmissions were like this in k e. t e and r a Celica cars w and T transmissions come to mind . Been a long time ago

 

Not sure what you said but sounds good.

Can you read it??

 

KE and TE and RA we're the the codes for Corolla and Celica Toyota models of yore. They had RWD trans and solid diffs. And similar plugs in thos trans and tears similar to the Honda you like the differential had 1/2 square hole install your half inch drive ratchet give it a yank All you needed No tools just the ratchet

 

The OP's only viable solution is to drill out the center of the drain plug with a 1/4 inch drill bit, drain the transmission fluid and then take out the plug with a broken bolt extractor.

I would drill carefully and retrieve the steel cuttings of the drain plug with a strong magnet especially before the drill breaking through, I would stop just before the drill breaks through.

Then, I would drive in a straight broken screw extractor to break through the center of the drain plug and wrench out the plug,

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200685157_200685157

I would replace the drain plug with an M18x1.5 magnetic drain plug like this one.

 

You have to know when to hold 'em, and know when to fold 'em.

I'm all in favor of "learning experiences", but you may want to consider taking this to a repair shop. Once the female hex of the drain plug is damaged, then things can get tricky. If you get some specialized tools, you might be able to remove it yourself. If you damage something, do you have a plan B?

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