Car died. Codes make no sense. ECU or 12v Batt?

Ton of codes=12V

Check it first (load test).

 

Remove and take it to a major auto parts store who will do it for free (hoping you'll buy a new one there if it fails).

2010? Is it the original 12v? If so, it's probably dead.

 

If the battery is original from 2010, just change it out and get a new one. Forget the load test.

Once the car resets with the new battery, any remaining errors/faults will be picked up again.

 

Before you say that, have you looked them up in the repair manual?

Out of the ones I recognize, I see misfires in every cylinder, plus a generic one saying there are misfires, plus one saying the engine power is reduced, one recording a failure to start, and one saying the hybrid computer has advised the braking computer that a problem exists. So far there's nothing here that would stop a diagnostician from putting a sensible picture together. It might take a bit of time to look up the rest and refine the picture to account for them also, but that's the part that usually just hasn't been done when I see threads saying "these all make no sense so I'm buying a battery."

-Chap

 

That's assuming you don't use a memory saver while swapping battery.

You could get a battery store to load test, or DIY with something like Solar BA5.

If the 12 volt is not the issue, in your shoes, I would invest the $100 or so in dealership diagnostic procedure, see what they come up with, report back.

 

were there any problems in any of the systems before it died?

 

You can learn to make sense of them. Four of them are per-cylinder misfire codes. One of the remaining is a generic code saying there are misfires. Two more are codes reporting engine power loss or starting delay, which totally happen when cylinders are consistently misfiring. One is the brake computer saying it got a message from the hybrid computer saying there's a problem, which the hybrid computer totally sends when it knows of a power loss or starting delay with the engine, which consistent misfiring can totally cause.

Are you starting to get the idea these codes are not just somehow random?

Some of the rest would still need to be analyzed. The U codes may represent losses of communication with certain modules. A person might look in the wiring diagram to see if any of those affected modules might be supplied or fused in common with circuits that affect fuel or ignition to the engine. The fact that misfires are recorded in all four cylinders tends to weigh against a problem with just one spark plug or injector, and in favor of something further back and common to all four. Multiple codes are ften a gift to the alert diagnostician, because the answer to your problem lies somewhere in the intersection of their possible causes, and the more of them, generally the smaller that intersection is.

Not to say that a car never has a couple unrelated problems crop up at once. That does happen sometimes, so the intersection idea can mislead in those cases. But you're generally right in thinking you aren't going to see half a dozen unrelated things at once. So when you see the half-dozen things, it's a promising approach if you take them to mean just what the manual says they mean, and look for how they can be related.

-Chap

 

With so many miles my bet is on HG or EGR. Any knocking from ICE? Coolant loss?
BTW, any oil burning?

 

I woudn't get into that just on a hunch: it's inside the gas tank. Believe it or not, in Australia periodic replacement (of the filter) is a maintenance item, still not a trivial (or cheap) task though.

 

The EGR is getting to be my sacrifical lamb for damn near everything that goes wrong with the engine. Maybe it's time Toyota went to bat on this.

 

Please follow the instructions that come with the battery.
It is highly likely that it will need to be charged overnight before being used.
If you don't have a small charger, NOW would be a good time to look for one.

P.S. If the 12 V is going bad, it can make it look like a bad ECU.....because the voltage doesn't need to drop much before the ECU will start malfunctioning. But trying TOO hard to "make sense" of all the codes that come out often is a big mistake.

 

HG = head gasket