car stopped running, 4 codes pulled

Break out the jumper wires lol

 

JC, do the brake lights come on when you press the brake pedal?

 

If you need the circuit of the brake switch I can post it.

John (Britprius)

 

Not necessarily because there's 2 sets of contacts. Do you have any jumper wires? and Brit, what color wires turn on the brakes?

 

Is there a plug that plugs into the brake light switch or are the wires soldered? You may have to follow the wires back to find a plug. If you find one, unplug it and get a paper clip. After unplugging, insert the paper clip to connect the blue and black wires together. Then see if the brakes are on. If so, try to turn the car on as if the brake pedal was depressed. If not, report back here.

Brit, pls post the diagram

 

The green and orange on NC contacts go into the hybrid control ECU but cannot easily trace the blue and black on the NO contacts, but would think these would operate the brake lights. I miss quoted the number of pages this runs across it is 7. Pulling the brake switch connector and linking blue and black with a paper clip should prove the switch one way or the other. This would open the NC and close the NO connections.

John (Britprius)

 

If it would help I can PM all 7 pages to JCp1006 but it will be in the morning as it's getting late here.

John (Britprius)

 

Yes, it matters. You need the correct brake switch that has two sets of contacts, with one set normally closed and the other normally open.

If you think about it, there is no way that the cruise control ECU would have a clue that the brake switch has a problem, unless there are two sets of contacts. The ECU receives voltage from both switches. It can tell there is a problem if both switches show 0 volts. Normally, one switch will show 12V while the other shows 0V.

I doubt that adjustment will help here, since the brake lights work properly. Just because the brake lights work, is NOT proof that both sets of contacts in the switch are operational. Only one set of contacts is required for the brake lights to turn on.

Most likely one set of contacts within the switch has failed and this is very easy to verify if the OP would use an ohmmeter to measure resistance across both sets of contacts with the brake pedal up, and then again with the brake pedal down.

I would also suggest against using some no-name switch from a discount auto parts store. Buy the correct Toyota part.

 

You should not have to press the brake pedal, while pressing the POWER button to turn off the car.

Is the speedometer working? If not, the combination meter needs to be replaced.

 

I would bet this has to do with your brake light switch being defective. I don't know why its doing that but, it is. You kind of have to ignore everything else thats wrong with it until you get the brake light switch working. Don't get too far in the weeds. Keep it simple.

Here's what we know, 1) the car doesn't even turn on correctly, 2) its giving a code for a bad brake light switch, 3) The brake light switch has to be working properly for the car to turn on correctly. With that in mind, we cannot even attempt to address any other problem. We have to get the car to turn on and hopefully give us a ready light. Also, keep in mind that GOOD, RELIABLE 12V power is a must for any troubleshooting both now and in the future. I would highly recommend hooking up a battery charger/maintainer to the battery asap. This will allow us to confidently rule out weak 12V power as a cause to any symptom. I don't know about anyone else but, I'm already suspecting a weak 12V battery that may be either causing the problems or compounding our efforts to troubleshoot them. It may very well be what's not allowing you to turn the car off with the brake depressed.