Car will only go to "ready" state sometimes

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Ezeh51, Aug 2, 2017.

  1. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    Need some help with my 2001 Prius not going to "ready" state every time. Occasionally will start up and usually at least twice in a row once it does. Couple of things so far, ran a scan using 10.30.29 version of the tool and came up the immobilizer didn't scan through somehow (although the program also says having trouble accessing the network using windows vista) We think it is the original key and it worked just fine for the five months prior to this that I've had this car. I am also pulling codes when it's running only (no codes when car is not in not ready state and off) c1571 and c1572 which appears to be checking m1 and m2 and power steering rack potentially. Any thoughts on what might be causing the starting issue?
     
  2. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    also do you think there would be any harm in just clearing out the codes and seeing if they come back? The car seems to start more often after I run the scan. Sometimes if I do not run the scan it will not start at all
     
  3. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    I have done a stress test on the 12 volt battery and cleaned the terminals
     
  4. drysider

    drysider Active Member

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    I would start with the 12v battery.
     
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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Those don't seem to exist in my 2001 manual. Would you be able to post a screenshot?

    Where did you get the information on what they "might" be about?

    -Chap
     
  6. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    I would start by getting an inexpensive multi-meter and checking the voltage on the 12 V battery.
    And then probably replace it.
     
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  7. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    I did a broader search for gen 1 codes and found them in that.
     
  8. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    I did that but the battery never dropped below 12 when I attempted to start (but it didn't actually start). The battery is less than a year old. That being said I know they can go bad
     
  9. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    IMG_0267.JPG IMG_0269.JPG IMG_0272.JPG
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Ah, got 'em. The C1571 and C1572 aren't listed with the regular EMPS DTCs, they're only meaningful in the Input Signal Check test described on pages DI-456 and DI-457. And because they are a test of the input signals from the right and left rear speed sensors, it is normal to have both codes shown if you didn't drive the car 20km/h or faster during the signal check. So for your purposes here, they are probably not indicating any problem at all, and are just a distraction.

    On your main health screen, I see a C1202 (low brake fluid), and a C12(glare on the screen), is that C1259? If so, not important, that's just the brake ECU telling you there's an HV ECU code.

    Speaking of that HV ECU code, B2799 is an immobilizer malfunction ... pretty much a smoking gun as to why the car won't go READY. You can click the puffy-cloud icon to get the freeze-frame data, which might include a three-digit INF code. 101 indicates the HV ECU gets no signal from the transponder key ECU. According to pages DI-210 to 211, that could be a wiring problem (short or open) in the single black-with-white-stripe wire between the two ECUs (T4, pin 8, to H14, pin 7). If you find such a problem, you just fix it, problem solved.

    If you don't, then the focus shifts to diagnosing the immobilizer system itself, referring to pages BE-104 to BE-114. (I did not know this: the transponder ECU can give some codes of its own, just by sending pulses to a dedicated pin on the diagnostic connector, that you can read by connecting a multimeter and counting the needle kicks).

    If you refer to the online manual at techinfo.toyota.com, I'm not sure it will have page numbers matching mine (but then, for 2001, it just might; back then, the online version might just have been a scan of the books).

    -Chap
     
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  11. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    Yes that was C1259 on the code with the glare on it. So not an issue. So it looks like the B2799 code. I'll be home in a day or two so I can get further code detail on it then. Nice info on where to find the manual as well. Lifesaver. Thanks!!
     
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  12. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    It does sound like it's OK but........a reading of 12.0 equals half discharged.
    In a car like this which does NOT use the 12. V to run a starter motor, it should ALWAYS be well above 12.0; I would start watching it closer at 12.5.
     
  13. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    okay, just a bit more info on my voltmeter it started out at 12.25 and got down to 12.05. I'll have to rerun the test just to make sure
     
  14. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    Quoting battery voltages without also supplying the conditions/circumstances at the time is just a waste of time.

    IF......those readings were made with everything OFF and the doors were kept closed the whole time (ensuring that things stayed OFF)
    then your battery is toast. Or possibly there is an abnormally high phantom drain somewhere.
    Odds: Battery 90%
    Phantom drain 10%
     
  15. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    I have the 101 code showing but looked through the 300 + page manual and couldn't find anything to help there (good to know that's there though for future). Do the gen 1's have the transponder ecu under the dash as well and under floorboard for the Hv ecu?
     

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  16. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    Could this all be caused by the 12 volt battery?
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    When I had a Gen 1, I started it successfully more times than I'd like to admit with the 12 volt battery falling to about 8 volts during start. Some of those times, I had to unplug the ABS pump relays, start the car, then plug them back in. Lower than that, 7 volts or less, I was generally not successful, and would have to charge or swap the battery.

    After none of those incidents did my Gen 1 ever report any inaccurate DTCs about anything.

    In this thread, going around about whether the battery is at 12.5, 12.25, or 12.05, seems like a distraction from looking into reported immobilizer comm issue.

    I am puzzled ... did you look at the specific pages I mentioned, DI-210 to 211 for checking the wiring, and if that's not the culprit, then BE-104 to BE-114 for further diagnosis?

    -Chap
     
  18. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    Hi Chap, I have looked over the manual off of that site. I also pulled the manual off the Toyota site as well. I have not been able to locate the diagrams or any of that info anywhere. Is the DI referring to do it yourself section. I did read most of that...
     
  19. Ezeh51

    Ezeh51 New Member

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    Is there a particular manual version I should be looking for?
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    All the page numbers starting with DI- are in the DIagnostics section, which makes up almost all of Volume 1. Those starting with BE- are in the Body Electrical section, toward the end of Volume 2.

    I'm not sure whether the online version is divided into volumes like the paper one, but anyway, all the stuff is under the RM (repair manual) tab once you've signed into techinfo and selected your model and year.

    -Chap
     
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