Changing Control Arms = Headache, Am Stuck! Need help

In the center of your picture is, I believe, the lower motor mount. I am just guessing, but if you unbolt it you might be able to jack up the frame just enough to get the bolt clear for extraction. Someone will be along to correct me if I am wrong. Hoping your weekend gets better.

 

Yes jack up motor.

Go to toyotatechinfo and rent 3 days subscription and u will have full access to factory service manual. Get printer ready and print out rr on LCA.

 

Oh yeah you have to remove the sub suspension system which is what holds the lca on.
The mount you bolt the lca too.

 

It's a huge amount of work.

 

I was wondering what motivated you to want to replace the control arms; and what is the odometer reading?

 

FWIW ....just a thought.

Can you cut the bolt in half and remove.
Then with the new bolt insert it with the bolt head on the opposite side?

For example some Harley motorcycles have this rear axle issue where you can't remove the bolt without removing the exhaust pipe. So one switches the bolt head from right to left.

Let us know.

Good luck.

 

1. Is it possible to unbolt an engine mount to jack up the engine one inch for clearance?
2. Or, loosen the bolts on the suspension crossmember assy?
3. Seems a shame not to complete the job...good luck.

 

If there is I'd like to know about it also. First vehicle I did started with the l/h side and was laughing at the estimated repair time then got to the r/h side......

Tried jacking engine and lowering k frame just enough to get bolt out, even with the center engine mount removed and round bar between floor and engine on hoist just could not get enough clearance for bolt head.

 

Hey guys, I know everybody is talking about jacking the engine up but when I replaced my LCAs I just removed the lower engine mount/dampener and swung the engine forward enough to get the bolt out and it worked fine.

Even with the bolts out it's a pain getting the control arm out with the wheel hub and struts in the way. In the end dropping the crossmember would have been less of a hassle.

Good luck,

Matt

 

Did this same job once on a 2000 Corolla - looks to be about the same procedure. The passenger side (North America) came out easy. For the drivers side - Beware: the bolts that hold the cross member on go into nuts that are welded or spot welded to the frame pieces and are complete inaccessible. If those weld nuts are corroded, they can and did snap off the frame. The fix for this is not pretty.

 

Just did mine the other day passenger side. Jack the engine up and remove the 2 subframe bolts you will notice the hole in the control arm thats to get to the one subframe bolt. It will drop down a bit may have to pry bar a little on the sub frame to get the bolt to pass this does work. Wondering thow has any one had the nut break on the subframe how would you fix that mess. A nut welded to inside a frame with no access never a good idea.

 

Lucas suck if your doing them in your driveway, have not seen too many LCAs replaced on the g2 though.
The lower bj is bolted in.
Why did you replace yours were they clunking real bad?

 

are you talking about mount in the center of OP pic? you removed it completely? next time video