Changing exhaust muffler prius gen 2

anything is diy, but it depends on your skill level. changing the muffler would be easy if new, but on older cars, it sometimes requires a cutting torch to get it off due to rust. you won't know until you try.
i would buy new gaskets with the new muffler.

 

The brake system is quite complex (see attachment), because of 'brake by wire'. I definitely wouldn't open the hydraulic circuit! That should do only a qualified person! It would be very hard to remove intruded air!

But changing disks and pads is possible.

[My brakes made strange sounds and didn't move properly (rear left one was fixed!) last spring. The dealer wanted to change disks und pads. But I wanted to check it myself first. So I disassembled them, removed the rust, applied new grease here and zinc spray there and assembled everything together again. (Pads and disks were thick enough.) After two days (especially because of the rear left one and the electrolytic rust removal) now they're fine and I need less gas, too.]

 

2. I would try to change the muffler.
Maybe the attached pics can help you.
It seems, that you don't have to proceed every step, because it's for the complete exhaust system. So there are "only" two bolts. But this connection can be a big problem. (A powerful heat blower and ice spray may be useful for removing the bolts.)
Gasket should be replaced.
Springs should be replaced, if too short.
Bolts maybe have to be replaced, if destroyed while removing.

 

Rear muffler is easy to change on the gen 2 Prius. And no need for a torch. Bolts thread into the muffler side so if they break no problem.

If the bolt head is super corroded just use smaller than normal socket and beat it on with a hammer. Then use a breaker bar to open it. If it snaps then that just safes you time. In the very unlikely event that you can’t get any socket to grip the bolt head use hack saw to cut the bolt.
After the bolts are off just spray the rubbers with lubricant and slip the muffler out.
Remove the old gasket and clean the area with metal brush, file, and/or sand paper. If its corroded some exhaust sealing paste can be used under the gasket to keep it from leaking.

For the rear disk brakes:

There are two different set ups.
They are a bit harder than normal brake jobs. Especially the Akebono type as removing the rusted brake pad pins and removing sliding sleeves for lubrication.

For first type:

This is not a very good video as it doesn’t show how to clean or lubricate anything and they let the caliber hang from hose. But it shows everything else.

For second type Akebono I could not find instructions for a Prius but this is the exact same setup on some Corollas, RAV4s or Celicas.
Front and rear brake pad change - Workshop Submissions - Toyota Owners Club - Australia
But again it doesn’t show how to clean or lubricate anything. You can probably find a lot better guide somewhere. If you have Akebono set up I can try to find a better guide for you.

Follow the:
Brake service
guide to make sure that computer has no control over brakes when doing the work.

 

I've lubed only these pins and I've kept the guidance of the pads dry. (I think, in the very beginning lube would help the pads moving, but later the lube collects dust/dirt/rust and the pads won't move.) But I've filed the sides of the pads until they fitted not too tight and protected them with zinc spray against rust.
Between the sheet metals at the back of the pads I've added a little bit ceramic paste (copper is also possible) to avoid screeching sounds.
(Keep in mind that grease and these pastes contain oil and will be fluid at high temperature and that they will flow following the gravity and centrifugal force. So take care, they never reach the friction area!)

 

Aah, of course, you're right! That's no problem!

 

I've only the US repair manual (with rear drums). But you can take a look at the front brake section. See attachment.

 

If McNuilty has Akebono rear calibers, that guide helps very little or none at all. Even with other rear caliber it’s not the same.

 

I'm sorry, because it seems that my app only uses thumbnails for attachments while writing and then posts the full-sized pictures.

Sure, they're not the same. But I used the same torques and applied grease to the same spots in the rear. The rest is improvisation.

For example my guidance pin was so tight and didn't move and nothing could help (temperature, wd40, hammering). At the end I've drilled a hole from behind, through which I could use an Allen key (with a longer pipe) at the pin. With much work the pin went off. The pin is used again cleaned and lubed and the hole got a thread and was closed with a short bolt. Improvisation.

(But I don't know, why there aren't the same (but smaller) parts in the rear. At least without these stupid guidance pin, one cannot grip if it's stuck.)

 

Yes. I don’t know why gen 2 Prius does have so a bad rear brake calipers.

Akebono caliper has more sliding points and sliding pins that are super hard to lubricate. I would actually rather have the set up that you have. Although I think that drum brakes that are in North American models are probably the best as they should stay working for longest without service and will have less drag than disc brakes.