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Changing oil in a Prius sucks

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by mmmodem, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. mmmodem

    mmmodem Senior Taste Tester

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    I haven't changed engine oil in a car for over a decade. I stopped when the cost of material approached $15 for dino oil. For an extra $5, I was happy to pay the local grease monkey to do it for me. 60k miles rolled past on my PiP and all the local dealers wanted $80 for an OCI, they used to do it for $50 with a coupon. Material cost for the more expensive 0w20 synthetic oil is only $40. I'm willing to get dirty for $40. Here is my takeaway.

    I don't have jack stands. The one wheel on the curb trick doesn't work for a Prius. There is a stupid plastic flap covering the oil filter and drain plug. It has to open all way because the hinge for the flap is right at the drain plug. If the car is not high enough off the ground, the flap will prevent you from placing the catch tub underneath the drain plug. This is ridiculous, I used to change the oil on my 1998 Corolla by feel alone. Everything was towards the front of the car so I didn't even have to put my head underneath the car, no need to jack up the car. How can Toyota go so wrong a decade later? I ended up jacking the Prius precariously a little more and wedging a piece of wood under the front passenger wheel.

    There is a little metal clip that is supposed to prevent the oil filter from twisting off on its own. I had to bang it out of there. Why is there no squeeze release?

    Oil filter was so tight, I broke my oil filter release tool. Luckily the thread broke on the tool and not the oil filter cap. Stupid Toyota dealers. It's supposed to be hand tight. I couldn't change the filter so I'm not sure what I am going to do now. I'll need to buy a new more robust tool. Last time I had this issue, I put a screwdriver through the filter. Can't do it on this car as the oil filter is now just the paper element. Need to buy a new tool.

    I forgot to put that stupid metal clip back at the oil filter. I'm not opening up that stupid plastic flap again. There's no way the filter will release on its own so I'll just put it back in next time.

    I can't wait for $50 oil change coupons to come back.
     
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  2. Munpot42

    Munpot42 Senior Member

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    I wouldn't attempt it without ramps and a garage, best of luck to you. For your own peace of mind, just pay the idiot dealer and hope for the best, and a coupon.
     
  3. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

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    I don't think you can blame Toyota. Who makes a modern car that you can oil change without ramps/jackstands anyway?
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    ya, i think you have to be doing it on a regular basis to have all the tools and techniques down pat.
     
  5. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Although I agree with some of your points, you're overall issue is you don't have the right tools for the job and are blaming the patient.

    BTW, you can get Mobil One at walmart for about $25 for a 5 qt. jug so around the 5-6th oil change it will be "free".
     
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  6. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    I haven't yet tried changing oil on my '14 Forester, so can't speak to how accessible the drain plug is.

    But the oil filter is location is wonderful -- just open the hood, and it is top, front, and center, with nothing to obstruct access.
     
  7. Okinawa

    Okinawa Senior Member

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    Just have to change it every 10,000 miles. The Toyota dealer is doing mine.
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    why did toyota go to the canister, instead of the spin off?
     
  9. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    There's no rule that it has to be so difficult. Even if we grant them the need for shielding under the engine for aerodynamic reasons, there are less awkward ways of making part of a shield removeable for service.
     
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  10. DoubleDAZ

    DoubleDAZ Senior Member

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    Well, my take is it's $40 every 10,000 miles vs $5 every 3,000 miles. However, the oil and filter now approach $20 and even an oil change at Walmart is over $30. And, yes, I know you can save by buying in bulk and not all cars need the oil changed at 3,000 miles anymore, but they did on my last vehicle, so that's what I compare current prices to. Even with a $14.95 coupon, taxes and shop fees bring the price of the "special" to $20 or so. Either way, that's $60 for me to do it or have it done on the cheap 3 times in 10,000 miles or $80 for them to do it once without the need for me to have ramps, the special filter tool, rags and the (minimal) hassle of disposal. Yes, I take the chance they will not do it right, but I have vertigo problems, so I can no longer do it if I wanted to. Still, the Prius would actually save me $10 over my previous vehicle and I got 4 years of maintenance as part of my deal, so I can't complain given my situation.
     
  11. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    It's called RoHS. It started in Europe, went to Asia, and is NOW in the US.

    Too much oil and was retained in the metal canister and went to the land fills.

    Most filter elements have no metal and no oil retention valve.

    The oil retention valves were too "iffy," so the OEM's went to the canister with their own certified design.

    When the engine designers switched back to timing chains, instead of belts, the "retention" valve and filter again became very important to the life of the engine.

    Timing chains need to be continuously lubricated, even at time of engine startup. Any starvation will cause excess wear on the nylon or polyoxymethyline Delrin guides.

    That's why the oil retention valve that prevents drain back to the crankcase at startup is so important.

    The orifice that feeds the timing chain guide lubricator is very small and must be kept clear. Any clogging from a bad oil filter or the lac of frequent oil change will result in wear and premature failure.

    Those who claim that frequent oil changes are NOT necessary and a waste of money are very ill informed.
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I think the ONE real impediment you have is the overtorqued oil filter housing. Everything else, you should be able to manage.
     
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  13. working1

    working1 Active Member

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    A Fumoto engine oil drain valve makes things go faster. Install it once and forget about replacing the oil plug gasket or torqueing it.
     
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    thanks mike, is the oil retention valve still necessary with synthetic oil?
     
  15. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    Expensive, but this is the ONE that I use.

    Toyota - OIL FILTER WRENCH Part Number: 09228-06500-02

    It is designed to release the clips, and it is the one that I see the mechanics have and use in my dealer's Service Department.

    It is worth the price, if you change your own oil and do it often.

    If you read my earlier post, that's also the reason why I use OER filters and have an addition OEM cartridge housing on hand. Break it, and you're screwed until you can get another.

    While others said that have has success with aftermarket housings, I'd pay a little extra and get the OER one, on account of the valve that I mentioned.

    You're welcome Bisco.

    Yes, the valve is absolutely necessary.

    As insurance I use a small amount of LiquiMoly that is retained on the parts and clings to the internal engine parts.
     
  16. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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  17. Mike500

    Mike500 Senior Member

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    Yes, maybe cheaper, but the Toyota one will last almost forever for my occasional use, unless I lose it or leave it outside to rust.
     
  18. mmmodem

    mmmodem Senior Taste Tester

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    Agreed. I'm trying to MacGyver this with the wrong tools. That's the thing though. The job is an oil change. It's nothing any amateur like me shouldn't be able to tackle. A very simple fix for one of my problems would be to relocate the plastic flap so the drain plug is closer to the opening instead of in the back so there wouldn't be a need to open the flap all the way forcing me to jack the car higher off the ground. I understand the need for aerodynamics and the plastic shroud but it can be done better.

    And don't get me started on the spark plugs and the amount disassembly required to change those.

    I thought I did pretty well for a 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 0w20 for $30. Plus filter and tax came out to $40. That's the only thing that went well for me. My car for the first time doesn't have the oil overfilled. Every time coming back from the dealer, it read slightly over.

    Thanks all for the recommendations on another filter cup tool... whatever it is called. I'm liking the one that engages the two side markers.
     
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  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Any decent oil filter socket with 64 mm inside face-to-face and 14 faces will do. There's no need for it to extend further, into the intermittent stiffeners on the Prius oil filter housing. And the clip is a joke: it should in no way hang you up, it stops nothing.

    If you want to keep the engine underpanel in one piece, I'd suggest to take the whole thing off, not just open the flap.
     
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  20. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Remember that if you change it yourself then that (over tightened filter canister) will be one less problem that you have next time. :)
     
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