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Changing oil in a Prius sucks

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by mmmodem, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Similar here: I've got a couple of wrenches that are 17" from fulcrum to end of handle, makes it a lot easier.

    mmmodem, I'd say it was a combination of factors that caused your filter removal problem. First off, the previous mechanic might have grossly over torqued it (spec is 18 lb/ft). Then maybe your filter socket: could be a bit oversize, say 2.5" instead of 64 mm. This would allow it to shift, lock up more. Finally a regular wrench length: leads to applying jolts of torque to compensate, making it more likely to lock.
     
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  2. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    Very wise.
     
  3. mmmodem

    mmmodem Senior Taste Tester

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    Update May 22, 2016

    Just performed the 100k OCI on my PiP. Now that it's my 4th time DIY. I've got it down to about 30 minutes to complete. Thank you whoever said to use a mirror on the floor to see if your tires are completely on the ramps. This saved me a lot of time and anxiety. No noticeable oil consumption this go around. I noticed some loss at 90k. What's different? I drive 10k miles every 4 months. The last four months were during winter maybe?

    You know what pisses me off? I bought a 2005 Prius a few months ago and thought I might as well get dirty for both cars. No idea when the previous owner did an oil change anyway. I drove the car onto the ramps and noticed there is no plastic flap. The drain plug is pointed towards the passenger front tire. The filter is right in front as well. This is the same placement as my 1998 Corolla which means I don't need to jack up this Gen2 Prius for an OCI at all! Everything is easily accessible. This is a 10-15 minute job like it should be! Grrrr Toyota, you had it right! :mad: Then you had to go mess it up with the Gen 3.

    BTW, used same 0w20 Pennzoil synthetic in the 2005 as it was a cheap bulk buy for my PiP. I know she's spec 'd for 5w30 Dino. She's got 131k miles currently. I'll let you know how it turns out.
     
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  4. Frederickdawg

    Frederickdawg Active Member

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    Yep. Factory overtightened. Think of the bright side. Moving forward it'll be easier.
    After reading your post, I look forward in changing mine. Not .

    LG-H901 ?
     
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  5. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    It's not that hard at all. I do t like the stupid flap, but that's the deal. You roll up the ramps, pop about six clips, drain oil and filter, replace and refill. Not that hard.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    @Frederickdawg has a 2016 with a dead simple oil change access panel: no hinge, 2 or 3 screws, and it comes right off.

    With our 3rd gen I take the entire panel off, wash out the push fasteners, re-install. Quite easy. Two fasteners (at the flap) are slightly larger, you need to take care not to mix them up. But goes quick, no big deal.
     
  7. mmmodem

    mmmodem Senior Taste Tester

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    Both of you have vastly different definitions of "not hard" and "no big deal" than me. Reminds me of when I showed DW how to change a tire and said its a "piece of cake." She vehemently disagreed with me. :p
     
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    but you're the guy with the black bun avatar.:p
     
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  9. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    On any car you have to get a container under the car, open/close the drain bolt and change the filter. That's a given. On a Prius you have to move a stupid plastic flap. That's the whole deal. Now, when it comes to replacing the spark plugs... it's MUCH harder than other cars. But you have that 100,000 mile interval...
     
  10. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    i may want to try that. driving on the ramps is huge anxiety for me too. prius is the only car that requires ramps to change oil.
     
  11. DrDrace

    DrDrace New Member

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    I used Rhino ramps to raise my vehicle. Another user mentioned anxiety using these so here's what I did: I drove right to the start of the ramps and measured how far the front edge of my wheel was to where it'd make contact with the end edge where they'd have to stop before dropping off the end! I then used that measurement to place a broom stick that far away from my driver's side side view mirror. This gave me the confidence to slowly creep up the ramps and then stop right before touching the stick.

    The ramps brought the Prius up high enough to get under and work somewhat comfortably; especially, after I placed painters plastic sheeting underneath which kept me clean and let me slide a bit better underneath on my (completely flat) drive way's concrete. This plastic sheeting, together with the plastic flap having enough bend, allowed me to force open the flap completely out of the way of the drain plug and close it when I was done.

    The drain plug and filter were on rediculously tight and I had to use a lot of force to get those off. Be careful not to hit your knuckles once they give! Also, that first oil release comes out in an arch, doesn't just drip straight down, so place your collector pan accordingly. For the filter housing, on my 2012 Prius, my parts dealer saved the day and told me I needed a special filter wrench with some slots cut into the edges. I would just insist they bring you the filter housing for your vehicle to the counter and have them help you find the right wrench that matches it for 100% no-fuss certainty every time.

    Make sure you have a couple of funnels for refilling the new and pouring the old oil from the drain container into your transport container. Gloves and rags or paper towels were a must.

    I think first time was a bit rough but I can zip through and save some nice change in the long run. Also, high hopes, maybe dealers will start dropping prices once more people do their own oil changes. :)
     
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  12. DrDrace

    DrDrace New Member

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    Ah, and I referenced the Haynes Toyota Prius 2001-12 repair manual along the way.

    You alo need to use a flat head screw driver to pry out the cener part of the rivets from the flap, then pull out the center part of the rivets before inserting them back in *and then* tapping the center back in.