Changing the PSD fluid?

folks. I know that this thread is a little stale but it still seems quite relevant. I have read through up to the debate about the source of silicon contamination. Would it be useful to test a sample from a NHW20 with <20mi on the clock? Though it wouldn't be conclusive, a significant concentration in a brand new (or perhaps nearly new by the time I get the sample) vehicle would be a strong indicator that the culprit is an assembly lube or other aspect of the manufacturing process rather than contamination from the outside. It's a long shot but I thought I would offer since the car is being delivered tomorrow afternoon. The $25 would be worth it to me if it contributes to the cause of achieving a 10+ year service life.

Tim

 

Hi Tim,

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brick @ Dec 11 2006, 10:34 AM) [snapback]360348[/snapback]</div>

The problem is getting a sample out of the transaxle. The drain plug does not have a 'sample valve.' You are likely to wind up with a full change of Type WS. However, I would be happy to cover the oil testing cost but not the Type WS refill.

Bob Wilson

 

i went into bob bridge toyota twice and they seem to have no clue about changing the psd fluid and i don't want it done there although they offer great service. they were about to charge me about $200 to change the radiator fluid and inverter fluid. luckily i found out that wasn't the psd fluid. anyways, does anyone know of a dealership in the seattle/federal way area that has done a psd fluid change? i'm at 75k and feel like i should change it on my 05 prius. thx

 

Not Seattle but Olympia. I enthusiastically recommend Mike Beyer at Toyota of Olympia (WA). Mike is also here as 'IFixEm'.

Hi Mike, if you read this, I have about 8k miles on the trans fluid filter, am in Ohio, and smooth sailing.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tochatihu @ Dec 22 2006, 10:33 AM) [snapback]365636[/snapback]</div>

thx a lot. i'll try to schedule an appt. soon. i'll see if the wife wants to spend some time in the state capital.

 

Now I'm a bit confused. When I bought my 2007, I was told the CVT was a completely sealed self contained unit. This obviously doesn't seem true if people are talking about changing the fluid.

So, if there is a drain hole, there must be a fill hole. Is there a stick to check the level that is not documented, or is what I was told partially correct in that it's generally considered non-user-serviceable and such?

Thanks.

 

there is a drain plug and a fill plug but no dipstick. Toyota assumes that if there are no fluid leaks it is full. If you read this thread fully there is a ton of information on the PSD fluid and what people are finding regarding lifespan of the fluid. Nope it's not sealed and as you have discovered most dealers don't have a clue about this car. Enjoy your ride.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(staze @ Dec 24 2006, 11:45 PM) [snapback]366448[/snapback]</div>

It is more of a problem for the earlier model, NHW11, 01-03 Prius. The NHW20, your model, appears to be good for 60,000 miles (based upon one sample and the Type WS oil characteristics.)

Bob Wilson

ps. http://hiwaay.net/~bzwilson/pri_toil.html

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bwilson4web @ Dec 26 2006, 04:39 AM) [snapback]366649[/snapback]</div>

Bob, et al.

I'm sorry to be breaking into this thread over 6 months late, but while driving from Winnemucca to Reno (on my trip from eastern Washington) this last Tuesday, I was watching temperatures on the ICE, MG1, MG2, and their windings. Traveling at the speed limit (75 mph) the MG1 winding got as high as 170F. Everything but engine temperature was much higher than I've usually seen it. This is with CAN-View. How concerned should I be about that winding temperature? Air intake temperature read ~100F, but OAT was certainly lower than that.

How is cooling accomplished on the windings? Just radiative? I want to be certain nothing overheats to the point of loosing insulation on the winding and letting any of them short out.

Dave M.

 

check the fluid level in your inverter coolant reserve tank...
.
_H*

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hobbit @ Jun 22 2007, 08:23 AM) [snapback]466332[/snapback]</div>

Thanks Hobbit. The level looks okay on all reservoirs. The one in the middle (with the pink-red fluid and pressure cap that says "29kPa" looks clean and full. I assume that's the inverter coolant tank.

Driving around Reno this week, the inverter winding temperatures are around 140F, and air intake temperature above 100F. I guess nothing is really wrong. However, gas mileage is even worse than winter mileage for comparable small trip distances. I don't know if the gas is poor. Could Reno have a bunch of ethanol in the fuel year round? Or is it the hills? There are a lot in this area. Or are higher battery temperatures a problem?

Dave M.

 

I have also seen MG1 temps as the highest of all, under heavy load driving. Yours I convert as 77 oC, and my highest ever seen was 105 oC. I would want to stop and cool off if it got any much higher than that.

I am glad you are monitoring, but would say you are not in the red zone yet.

Cooling by the inverter coolant loop, as well as conduction.

A proper inverter coolant loop level check is done with the car in 'ready'. The forward section of the reservoir tank should be at least 1/2 inch higher than in the rest, and you can see that the pump is circulating the fluid. At least this was the was with the classic model, has it changed in the new model?

DAS

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dmckinstry @ Jun 22 2007, 09:43 AM) [snapback]466305[/snapback]</div>

I don't get worried until the temperature starts getting higher than 212 F (~100C). Even then, everything should be OK up to about 150C.

The Dept. of Energy studies indicate most of the heat is lost through convection with the aluminum case. There is a coolant channel and it handles the extra heat from MG1 since it fits closest to the ICE. BTW, the ICE will normally be at ~85-90C (185-195 F). So mostly, I won't worry about it given a speed of 75 mph.

Bob Wilson