Chasing HV Battery Concern

Last Sunday night my daughter was rushing off back to college we tried for an oil change that turned into a tow to the dealership (2012 / 110K). I have two questions for the forum.

1) Any idea what the oil change process / tech could have done to kill the HV battery?

2) Since the HV battery was suspect I started looking into the quality of the battery. Wondering if anyone might give me some idea if the readings below look very bad? After looking at the options I purchased the prolong battery conditioner. I'll be installing it tomorrow. Curious if anyone has an impression if this HV battery looks "bad"?

She had an oil change indicator light that had come on before she left school (Mid December). So we decided to use the local Jiffy Lube to get a quick oil change before she left. When we returned from Dinner the oil change technician was working to reset the oil indicator. He had been at it for a while without success. I watched a you tube video quick and showed him how to do it (got it reset first try). I'm not clear what all he had "tried" to clear the code. But when my daughter went start the car it started up with all the classic dead HV battery indicators (red triangle, all the safety lights, check hybrid system / pull over safely).

The car would barely pull across the parking lot - then wouldn't go at all. We had it towed to the dealer. They told me that I "probable" needed a new HV battery. The indicated that they had charged it up and it would be fine for a while (the dealer quoted me $4100 BTW).

Some important background (maybe). The car had been sitting for a couple of weeks while we were traveling. The jiffy lube is about 10 miles from our house.

Any ideas what might have happen to drain the battery?

I haven't been happy with the quality of the HV battery since we purchased the car. I swear the ECM warrenty update made the milage go from 50MPG to 40MPG. Up until this week I hadn't bother to spend much time looking at it. So I purchased an OBDII reader and downloaded Torque. This a summary of a good drive based on what I understand to be possiable ways to evaluate the battery cells.



So as I understand it larger variation between loaded and unloaded voltage is worse. All cells performed within .15 Volts.



I took several looks at the variance of individual cell voltage from average. I looked at this both while the cells were charging and discharging. Bank one looks to be the worse. About 10% of the sample readings were greater then .1999 volts from the average of the other cells. From what I've seen in other posts this doesn't look to be extreme?



This is the measurement I understand the least. All of the cells were consistent in their internal resistance readings across every sample. Here again Bank One stands out a little.

Anyone have an opinion about the quality of this battery? This battery doesn't look "that bad" to me based on what I've seen. That said - I don't feel like the car run's effectively on Battery. Especially in the morning by the time I get to work it seems to work work better on battery. So I'm definitely going to try the conditioner.

 

The dealership said the car had a p0a80 code. That said I think they might just told me that because I questioned how they knew it needed a new battery.



When I got my obdii tool I looked for set codes with torque and didn't see any fault codes. I will check again in a few days after I get the first conditioning cycle with the prolong.

Attached is a picture of the dip stick. This was taken with engine warm (15mins after a 10 mile drive back from church). Is there any way to tell from this if it's over filled?

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I'll work to clean it up and report back.