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Check Engine light came on - phooey!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Freedom, Aug 30, 2018.

  1. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    Carmine is a 2008 Prius I purchased new. Mileage: 75392. I was planning that this will be the last car I will ever own, so I have tried to take good care of it. Most of the time it is in the garage not out in the weather.

    Out running errands today and at one point the check engine light came on. I was closer to the dealership* I use for service than I was to home, so I went in. They waived the $115 diagnostic charge. (* not the one where I purchased the car, as I moved over 200 miles away, 4 years ago. Not sure this matters, but wanted to include it.)

    Report says Water Valve Assembly needs to be replaced. Dealership will have to order parts. $601, which includes 4 hours labor.

    While they were checking out the car, they recommend replace hub and bearing assembly on one wheel. The tech said he could hear it? No idea what he hears; but then I am hard of hearing even with my hearing aids in. $657.68 which includes 3.5 hours of labor.

    They told me it is ok to drive the car, and call to let them know to order the parts and get my appointment made.

    I went on doing errands. After the 3rd one, check engine light was no longer on. Eh? Does this mean I hold off on the water valve assembly work?

    Thoughts, ideas, suggestions please. Advice also welcome! Thank you in advance.
     
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  2. audiodave

    audiodave Active Member

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    The valve started to work again basically. It puts hot coolant in the tank to use again when engine turned back on. It's ok to drive it that way, no emergency. But thats a high price to fix that. You can order the part online fairly cheap. Shouldn't take 3.5 hours either. Was this for the bearing too or just the coolant control valve?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  3. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    Water valve assembly job is $601
    Wheel hub and bearing is $658

    How would I go about finding another place to do this work? I mean, what do I need to ask about? I generally use the dealership as I know their techs are (supposedly!) trained on the Toyota vehicles.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i would skip the bearing and shop around on the water valve while you're waiting to see if the check engine comes back on.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    just look up repair shops and ask. triple a rates them if you want a comfort level. the water valve is not complicated and can be done by anyone.
    go in and talk to them, trust your gut.
     
  6. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    OK thanks Bisco, will get to work on this tomorrow.
     
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  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    do some reading on the water valve (3 way coolant valve) it is not imperative. i'm not up to speed, but that is what i have read iirc.

    bearings can wait until you can hear them without your hearing aids.:p
     
  8. hchu1

    hchu1 Active Member

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    To be sure, did the dealership give you the dtc, it should be a P1121. I diy mine a while back, the part should cost about $50. I don't know what the book says about the amount of time allotted for this valve, but I think 3.5 is a bit excessive. I might take that amount of time but 1.5 should be tops for a shop job.

    You can ignore the valve for the time being, it is a low priority item on the list of repairs. Go do you homework, you have time, it will go on and off til your replace it. It won't adversely affect your vehicle operations.

    Have someone else check your wheel bearing, the bearing will usually will let you know way ahead of time before you need to replace them. I did my own, can't recall what the price for the bearing, but you can also get the entire hub assembly that would make work easier. If the bearing is going bad find a shop that will allow you bring the part and charge you labor, it should be way cheaper.

    Here is a website that may help you out for pricing comparisons:

    Toyota Prius Wheel Bearings Replacement Costs | YourMechanic Estimates
     
  9. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Not replacing the 3-way coolant control valve could mean you will lack cabin heat and the engine will take longer to reach operating temperature (thus emitting more pollution). The position the valve is stuck in, will determine one or both of these possibilities. You live in a COLD region and will likely very miserable w/o cabin heat; something to consider.

    Has the 10yr/100K miles service been performed? If no, now would be the ideal time to do it b/c both coolant loops (engine and inverter) need to be drained and filled.

    You give the impression that a Toyota dealership has been performing your paid maintenance. If so, this could work to your advantage. Call the diagnosising dealer and tell them the valve is a warranted product b/c Massachusetts is a CARB State; the service writer and manager will most likely be clueless to this. If they are unable to get the part covered under warranty, call corporate Toyota and ask for Goodwill assistance, telling them in your words something like this:
    • Name of Toyota dealer reports (tell date of diagnosis and invoice #) 3-way coolant control valve (part number 1667021010) being stuck/defective, provide the DTC code (should be P1121) from the invoice.
    • This part should be covered under the CARB 10yr/150K mile warranty because it is a critical emission related component, that can prolong engine warm-up times, producing unnecessary emissions, due to this valve being stuck in the wrong position.day
    • If you are just outside of warranty by days/weeks/months, still call, b/c you car has so FEW miles.
    Some people in CARB states have been fortunate and received replacement free of charge by the dealer. Others have not. It is a hit/miss. IIRC, this part is specifically specified as being covered for 5yr/60K miles; but some of us have been fortunate to get the part replaced under the longer CARB Emission Warranty.

    Here's a good explanation and pricing breakdown of the valve.
    Prius P1121: Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck - Luscious Garage | Hybrid Specialists
     
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  10. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    Wow, great info, thank you hchu1 and exstudent!
     
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  11. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    FYI, I do not have the computer code, it is not on the invoice. Both of you put P1121, could be, no idea. I was told they do not give that info (nor would they tell me which wheel needed the hub and bearings) because then people go someplace else to have the work done.
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i have to respect that, since they didn't charge for diagnosis. but if you are going to diy, you will need codes.
    if you are going to get competitive pricing, they can doublecheck the codes.
     
  13. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Certain chain auto parts store (Auto Zone) and repai shops (Midas) offer free Check Engine Light reading. Assuming it is P1121, these places will be able to read thta code with their generic readers. Generic readers will miss many other codes, BTW.

    If it is P1121, goto a dealer and tell the service advisor what I said above. You will not pay a penny (even diagnostic fee), as it is a warranted part and you paid a lot in total dealer service. If they can’t give you what you want, find another dealer or call Toyota Customer Care.
     
  14. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    Hey all, just working on this today. The check engine light went off and has not returned, so I didn't rush to follow up.

    I've just called and spoke w/ the diagnostic dealership. I live in northeastern Mass. on the New Hampshire state line. The dealership I use is in NH. They are the closest Toyota dealer to me based on mileage, where I live. The nearest MA dealer is 4 times the miles away. Not that it is far, lol. I'm just explaining why I use this dealership. So: The tech took down the info and has to call me back, but he believes I will have to go to a dealer in MA for the coverage.

    So he just rang back, yes, I have to go to a MA dealership. Even though the check engine light is off NOW, he said it should be in the history so they can verify. He still would not tell me which code they read, he said it wouldn't matter as the next dealer would not take their word for it, anyway.

    Meanwhile, I researched online what that wheel hub / bearing issue would sound like. Oh! That is the thump, thump thump I hear! That's been going on for months, since before I bought my new Nokia tires last November; I had expected the noise to stop with the new tires, it didn't. I keep thinking I have a flat, but of course I don't. SO I will need to get that worked on as well.

    Thank you all for the info. Proceeding with both issues.

    @bisco @exstudent
     
  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    not sure why you would have to go to a ma dealer for the issue, warranty or not. i don't think it is a carb thing, but i could be wrong.
    since nh won't do it, it really leaves you no choice.
     
  16. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    Bisco, exstudent was the one who suggested it may be a CARB covered item.

    NH is not a CARB state.
     
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  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    interesting, thanks!(y)
     
  18. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    @exstudent @bisco, can't say THANK YOU! enough, both of you!

    re water valve assembly: went to MA dealer today. Yes, all covered, no money from my pocket; work scheduled for next Tuesday. Seems I have never had a coolant flush, they said they will not warranty the new valve assembly unless I do that. So that will happen at the same time. Both gas and electric sides. Coolant flush $149 plus tax. Tried for a discount on the labor. Nope. Seems they use clamps to do the valve assembly work, so they would not be emptying anything. For the whole thing: 1 hour, to 1.25 hours (Original dealer said 4 hours labor, in the estimate) Such a difference!

    wheel hub: went to the shop where I bought the Nokia tires last year. For a bit less - LESS - than what the dealship wanted to replace the left, they will replace BOTH front hubs. That work will happen this Friday. And UNLIKE the dealer, mechanic took Carmine for a test drive, a bit over 5 miles. Warned me that the left is really REALLY bad, I need to limit my driving as it could break any time. And the MA dealership today? The mechanic said he noticed the noise, so he did a test drive (about 7 miles) and said the same thing!

    I am now thinking the close- to - me NH dealership is crap.
     
  19. Freedom

    Freedom Active Member

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    @hchu1 I will be having the wheel hub work done this Friday. Won't be buying the parts on my own. Place I will use has a sign up:

    We don't take our own eggs to the restaurant for an omelette, so don't bring your auto parts to us!

    It was a nice idea though, and I appreciate the tip. Will keep that in mind for future.