Checking Suspension Components

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by SB6, Jun 27, 2019.

  1. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    How do I check my suspension components to see what needs replacing? 2010 Prius, bit over 140k miles. Here are my alignment reports

    In regards to suspension components, the closest thing I've ever done was change a tire... so I may need explanations in simpler terms.

    I recently blew out my right two tires by going over a curb at night. I changed all 4 tires, got the two rims repaired, and had alignment done 3 times at one place, and once more at another more professional place. However, I'm still feeling a sort of pull towards the right. How do I figure out what's causing this?

    Even before this, I had been told that I needed to replace my rear shocks. I don't know much about cars, but I'm pretty sure that's not what would cause a pull. However, if anyone has any tips, I'd like to know how to check on these components as well. For example, since I'm going to be needing to replace the rear shocks, how can I check on my other shocks and struts as well?
     
    #1 SB6, Jun 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2019
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her?

    did anyone give you an alignment printout you can post here?
     
  3. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    #3 SB6, Jun 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2019
  4. Peter123

    Peter123 Active Member

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    If your car does not maintain a stable toe in after it has been aligned, it may need new bushings on the front control arms. Don't let a shop tell you that you need new control arms ($$$). Usually it is the rear bushings on the front control arms. The ball joints take the vertical component of any impact on the front tires and pass that to the struts. The bushings take the horizontal component and after 140k miles that may be a lot of impacts.
     
    #4 Peter123, Jun 30, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2019
  5. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    So after experiencing trouble code C1345 and replacing my brake booster (no idea if it was related to my alignment issue), I was able to take my car to a couple different shops to try to figure out the alignment issue. I was finally told today that my rack and pinion needs to be replaced. Anyone have experience with the replacement?
     
  6. RRxing

    RRxing Senior Member

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    Here's the DTC for the 2010. Not sure if it's related to the brake booster or alignment.

    Screen Shot 2019-08-27 at 7.31.55 PM.png
     
  7. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Thanks. Yeah, mine would not complete the relearning process successfully, so I had to replace the brake booster.

    Anyways, now I am being told by a different shop to replace my rack and pinion in order to correct my alignment issue
     
  8. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    The entire rack? "Usually" it the rod ends.
     
  9. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I'm not sure... They told me the "rack and pinion." They didn't mention anything about rod ends.

    My car has a rightwards pull, steering wheel is sort of crooked (towards the left, I think), and I feel like the steering doesn't self-center to follow the road's tilt as much as before all of this (it still does self center, but I feel like it isn't as much as it used to). Also, my alignment keeps going bad, specifically the front toes I believe. What does that sound like to you?
     
    #9 SB6, Aug 27, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2019
  10. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I'm sorry, I must have somehow glossed over this post when you had made it. Are these bushings something I can easily inspect? I'm thinking my issue might actually be this. Would you be able to explain in a little more detail? This is pretty much my first car, so I'm still learning about all these parts.

    Like I mentioned in my last couple posts, one shop has told me to replace my rack and pinion. However, another shop I was at after this told me to replace my lower control arms, as they saw the right bushing was cracked. They did however mention that the bushing shouldn't cause a pull, just noise.

    Given what I was told, should I replace the entire lower control arms, or just the bushings?
     
  11. Peter123

    Peter123 Active Member

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  12. Peter123

    Peter123 Active Member

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  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Sounds like your tires are worn. Swap the front tires. It will probably pull to the other side, or go straight.
    I haven't looked, hopefully it's not too hard to remove the old bushing and install new ones.
    If you have a bench with a vise, and some hammering tools! :)
    I replaced all the parts on my Van's front end for just over the cost of all the bushings.
    A LOT of time NOT spent, and fustration of fighting out old worn out bushing and installing new ones.
    If the bushing is cracked, it's worn out, or about too be.

     
  14. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I just looked at the rockauto link. $32 for the both bushings for ONE control arm.
    1 control arm WITH ball joint, $35.00.
    I would get the control arm! Pull old one out, put new one in.
     
    DanGiant, SB6 and wheezyglider like this.
  15. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Exactly what was confusing me. Lower control arms seem relatively cheap
     
  16. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    The lower control arms seem relatively cheap. Wouldn't it be easier/better to just replace the entire thing rather than just the bushings?

    Also, I was able to take a look while the car was on a lift a couple days ago. We looked but couldn't find any cracked bushings, so I'll have to talk to the guy who had told me he found a cracked bushing

    Edit: I just looked at the Rock Auto page and some videos... I don't think I was looking for the right things when I was looking for the cracked bushing... What I thought were bushings were in fact not bushings :oops:
     
    #16 SB6, Sep 13, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
  17. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I've swapped the front tires and still get the same rightwards pull, so I don't think it's the tires.

    I had the car on a lift a couple days ago, but couldn't find the cracked bushing I was told about. And while this is my first car and I've never done anything like this before, neither I nor the shop with the lift noticed anything out of the ordinary that immediately stood out, other than a little scratching/rust on the right lower control arm

    Edit: I just looked at the Rock Auto page and some videos... I don't think I was looking for the right things when I was looking for the cracked bushing... What I thought were bushings were in fact not bushings :oops:
     
    #17 SB6, Sep 13, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2019
  18. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    How are the brakes? Front and rear. Maybe the right side caliper is sticking?
    Or maybe you hit something and the alignment was knocked off?
     
  19. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    I'm currently in the process of figuring out how to check my brakes (like I said, first car, never done any of this stuff before :unsure:), but it's possibly time to replace stuff.

    Yes actually, I originally posted this thread after I went over a curb with my right two tires. Repaired the 2 rims, replaced all 4 tires, and got alignment multiple times, but the toe doesn't hold and keeps going bad. Here are my alignment reports since then
     
  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I would suspect the rear caster is messed up. The alignment place should be able to find this.
    Something must be bent. If after the alignment it goes straight, then after a certain amount of mileage it
    starts pulling, then something is loose, bending, or breaking.
    I don't understand why they don't have caster adjustments, that's what causes a car to pull.
    Playing with the camber doesn't truly fix that. Anymore everything is "set" so either no or minimal adjustment
    is needed. Except for the toe in/out, since that's why causes wear.

    There are MANY videos to watch, and do watch many! You can always learn something.
     
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