Code P0A80. Should I change the entire pack or just a battery cell module?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Apexruiz, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. Apexruiz

    Apexruiz New Member

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    it is my first time asking a question here.
    I know there are tons of other posts like this but I would like to get some guidance for my specific situation and hopefully this will help somebody else in the future.



    3 weeks ago I bought a 2006 Prius with 112,000 Miles from a private seller and unfortunately a couple of days ago, when I was driving back to my home, the lights of the red triangle, check engine light, VSC and the tire pressure light came on.


    - Torque gave me this code P0A80, which is basically "Replace Hybrid Battery Pack"


    So today, I decided to buy Torque Pro to be able to check the voltage of each individual block withouth having to take the battery out yet.


    These are the screenshots that I took, while the vehicle was on ACC only (no motor running) and then with the car on:

    Screenshot_20180609-152430_Torque.jpg

    Screenshot_20180609-152451_Torque.jpg

    Screenshot_20180609-152651_Torque.jpg


    Now, It is very clear that Block 10 it the only one with a different voltage.

    This is the charge that was shown in the info screen, it is worth mentioning that the battery charge status has been charging and discharging a bit quickly so I wouldn't trust the charge indicator too much; Howver the Hybrid System charges and uses the battery juice as usual.

    20180609_152657.jpg




    To see if I could charge the battery maybe a couple of lines more, I decided to take the car for a ride and do a force charge, however I couldn't put the car in D and this message came on:


    20180609_152707.jpg





    I have a few questions:


    1.- Last week I programmed a new Smart Key (thanks to you guys!),

    The previous owner had a Smart Key but it didn't work with the Smart features

    The last time I checked it marked around 12.4 V, I checked the history of the car and last year the aux battery was changed, the only reason I mention the Aux Battery is because the message that showed up when I tried to put the car in Drive.

    Is there a way that the new Smart key discharged the 12 v battery quicker than usual and then the 12 v battery caused the code and lights to show up?


    2.- If I take the 12 v. battery out to recharge it, would it clear the lights? ( I would prefer to have them on for diagnostic purposes)


    3.- The car charges the battery and used the charge of the battery as usual, I was getting 50 MPG in the last few days that I drove it,based on the voltages of each battery block, are they lower than usual?


    4.- If I order battery cells from Amazon, how can I power balance the new battery cells? What tools do I need?



    The seller states this:

    " Do you have to balance the entire bank after instillation? If so what charger/discharger balancer is recommended?

    Answer:
    The modules must be a relatively close match in capacity and resistance for the pack to last, this is not something you can do with an assembled pack.
    A state of charge balance can be easily achieved by "force charging" the battery pack.
    To do a force charge: (we recommend doing this at night)
    1. while the car is on put the car in drive and hold the brakes with your left foot.
    2. with your right foot press the gas pedal to about 30% and hold it there for 4-5 minutes.
    3. do this until the Battery on the nav screen shows that it is fully charged (full green)
    4. Do not drive the car for the next 12 hours, turn it off and let it sit.
    This should be done 3x over a three day period (every night).
    This will only fix state of charge balance issues.
    Cell mismatch can only be fixed by replacing modules that are outliers
    (yes even that module that is too good/new for the pack needs to be replaced with a module with similar characteristics to the rest of the pack) "




    If more details are needed, please let me know. I know this this too long but I wanted to provide as much details as I can.

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!
    with such a low mileage car, i'd look for a low mile salvage battery, cheapest new oem i could find, or 2k1toasters new aftermarket battery.

    all the best!(y)
     
  3. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    That block is bad. It is not a 12v battery issue. Believe the data you see from the Torque Pro app.

    For a long term reliable repair, the battery should be replaced.

    If you enjoy tinkering and have some good tools (sockets, inch-pound torque wrench, high voltage safety gloves, voltmeter, etc) and don't need a reliable car, you start replacing modules.

    You basically will replace one now, and one after that at a different time, and another after that, etc, etc. You might get a few weeks, a few months, maybe more, maybe less. You never really know and that is the fun of it if you like that kind of adventure.



    You might want to buy a charger/discharger system ($500-$700) to try to keep the pack somewhat in check, since you will have modules from different packs put together.

    That description from the Amazon seller is fascinating. Everyone has there own ideas. Perhaps you should also clap your hands three times while spinning counterclockwise. ;-)

    How much does the Amazon module cost? Just curious.
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  4. Apexruiz

    Apexruiz New Member

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    The price on amazon is $38.95 right now. Based on the block voltages, are they still in good shape?
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    is because the message that showed up when I tried to put the car in Drive.

    That looks like the message that gets posted when you try to put the car in drive while a door is open, not necessarily due to any battery issues.

    As for your battery and module replacement, it can be hit or miss. There's no magic cure for an old battery. It is what it is. Replace a module or two and it may last years, or it may last months or it may last weeks. You can't know for sure, especially if you can't perform any testing of the modules. What you can do is replace the obviously bad module(s), and then get a bluetooth OBD adapter and an app, like Hybrid Assistant and hybrid Reporter, to allow battery load testing/block voltage graphing. At least that way, you can see what each block is doing and you'll be able to know what kind of condition they're in.
     
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  6. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Block voltage unloaded doesn't really meanuch of anything. Total crapahoot.

    Buy a few at leastl two at a time because in the upcoming months your will need more. Would be nice if they were from the same pack to try to minimize intriducing more difference.
     
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