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Control Arm Bushings/Drive Belts

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by beth524, Mar 8, 2012.

  1. beth524

    beth524 Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Ithaca, NY
    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    I had to bring in my 2002 for the steering rack recall and the local dealer (who I have had nothing but problems with) tried to sell me a new "drive belt" for $150 and replace "bushings torn out of control arms" for $720. As a DIYer, I am sure I can change the belt (does anyone have instructions for a Classic Prius?) but what is this about control arm bushings? Wouldn't I have heard or felt something? My car has 84000 miles, never have had any belts replaced so maybe that is true....
    I have had so much great help and advice from you all and have managed to avoid being ripped off by the only dealer in town. Thanks! :)
     
  2. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
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    You'd need to jack up the front and remove the wheels to inspect the control arm bushings. Given that you are in the rust belt, it is a possibility that something has gone wrong. Since you will need an alignment if such work is performed, I suggest taking your car to a suspension/steering/alignment shop for an opinion. Look for an independent shop, rather than a national chin.
     
  3. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Vehicle:
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    I found this from a previous post courtesy of Patrick Wong. It is very comprehensive (probably better than the tech manual). Its for the Gen 2 but this procedure is very similiar if not exact.

    Here's the link (post # 18) http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...45143-service-schedule-serpentine-belt-2.html

    I recommend viewing the original post so you can see the pics better.

    "Following is guidance on how to replace the serpentine belt:

    - Jack up front end and support with two jackstands
    - Remove the RH side engine under cover
    - Disconnect the air cleaner inlet hose to provide clearance
    - Loosen the nut which is coaxial with the idler pulley
    - Loosen the bolt on the idler pulley to relax the serpentine belt, then remove
    - Spin the water pump pulley, it should turn smoothly and the pulley should not have any play. If you note any problem with the pump bearing or if you see dried antifreeze stains on the water pump or pulley, replace the water pump.
    - Place the new belt on the idler pulley and crankshaft pulley, note that the outside of the belt is in contact with the water pump pulley.
    - Tighten the idler pulley bolt to place tension on the new belt. While applying 22 lb of force on the belt midway between crankshaft pulley and idler pulley, the new belt should deflect 0.4".
    - Tighten the idler pulley nut to 30 ft.-lb.
    - Reconnect the air cleaner inlet hose
    - Reinstall the engine under cover
    - Start engine to verify that the new belt works properly, take a test drive and think about the $$$ you just saved.

    The center of the first photo shows the idler pulley after the air cleaner inlet hose was moved out of the way. See the nut at the pulley center. Also see the idler pulley bolt head, note the head has some white paint on it. The old belt is still in place.

    The second photo is zoomed out to provide some perspective. The left bottom corner of that photo shows the windshield washer container which is next to the RF fender.

    The third photo is taken from under the car, note the appearance of the old serpentine belt wrapped around the crankshaft pulley. The water pump pulley is in the upper right corner and the idler pulley is barely visible above the WP pulley.

    The fourth photo shows a plastic fastener for the engine under cover. This can be found in the RF wheel well and is not easy to remove. Note the two "ears" that can be compressed using long-nose pliers from the inside, to remove that fastener.

    The fifth and sixth photos show the new belt part number.

    The last photo shows rib cracking apparent on the inside of the old belt. This is why I replaced it. If you are satisfied with a lower standard of maintenance, you don't have to replace the old belt until there are actual gaps in the ribs, not just cracks.
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