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Correct me if I'm wrong... (new Gen1 owner)

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by S Keith, Sep 11, 2015.

  1. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Bob,

    Thanks again for the education. Based on the 33kW motor, I estimate the modules must deliver 120A at nominal pack voltage.

    Steve
     
    #41 S Keith, Sep 19, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2016
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  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Field measurements show the maximum currents are 50 A discharge and 70 A charge. It is an inverter limitation.

    Bob Wilson
     
  3. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    If that's the case, then 50A * 300V = 15kW, which means the motor will never put out anything near its 33kW rating. At pack nominal voltage, it's only 13.7kW. I'm not arguing. I'm trying to understand.
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The Prius transmission can provide up to 18 KW from MG1 independent of the traction battery. The maximum traction battery draw is less depending on load and mode. I am running chores and have the details on home computer.

    Do not feel bad as it took me years to figure out how Toyota did it.

    Bob Wilson
     
  5. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    LOL... thanks... the 20kW statement only muddies the water... that would suggest an 88A max draw, but you said 50A max inverter limit. I clearly need to do more research. I admit I've been lazy. I just learned what MG1 & MG2 means... must digest more wiki.

    So, 33kW MG2 is produced by ~15kW HVB + ~18kW ICE+MG1?
     
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  6. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    You aren't lazy. I suspect only a handful of humans understand what the brilliant Toyota engineers accomplished. 'I see math' but it took me a couple of years to understand.

    I have read peer reviewed papers only to realize they missed it. Looking back, the principles are simple YET so easily misunderstood.

    Bob Wilson
     
  7. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    Good Gen3 packs are getting expensive, and you need 1+ packs to make a Gen1 pack. (28 modules in Gen2-3, 38 in Gen1) and they have to be matched modules (same internal resistance, capacity, etc) Prius is way more finicky than Honda about modules being similar.

    Why not just get new "zero mile" Gen1 pack from the dealer?
    That will be the best solution longevity wise and around the same price (unless you stumble on real cheap Gen3 packs which is unlikely).
     
  8. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    I appreciate your position. The goal of this project was to get an operable vehicle at a low cost. A new pack would defeat this purpose... plus I like playing with the battery bits... :)

    Plus, I do my darnedest to keep my $ from going to the dealer.

    However, does anyone know if new Toyota Gen1 packs still use Gen1 modules? Since Gen1, 2 & 3 are interchangeable when done a whole pack at a time, It would make sense that they no longer make Gen1 modules and Gen1 packs come with Gen2 or Gen3 modules. Economy of scale, improved reliability and whatnot.
     
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    This raises and interesting question:
    What are the list prices for a Gen 1, Gen 2, and Gen 3 pack?

    Divide the price by the number of modules and we'll have clue as to the relative cost from Toyota of the modules.

    Bob Wilson
     
  10. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Based on MSRP from toyota parts direct:

    2003: $2,299 ($60.50/module)
    2004: $2,589 ($92.46/module)
    2010: $2,729 ($97.46/module)

    The above neglects core charges.

    I question whether or not the proposed analysis offers any insight due to deeper complexities.

    Assumptions:
    1. There are dramatically fewer Gen1 still on the road than Gen2 or Gen3.
    2. Production quantities would be MUCH lower than Gen2 or Gen3.
    3. Lower production quantities generally result in higher piece prices.
    4. Each module iteration represents an incremental improvement over the last generation.
    5. Those incremental improvements represent a small change to the base cost of the module when deployed at the mass quantity scale.
    6. It is ultimately more economical to make 1 module common to all new and replacement packs than it is to maintain 3 different designs, particularly when there is a 7 year span between the first and third iteration.
    7. Pricing is variable and depends on multiple factors. Owners of newer cars with a significant book value will be more willing to stomach a larger repair bill and justify a higher profit margin while a maintenance event that is a significant (greater than half the value of the car) will likely not be tolerated.
    Given the above and the fact that the Gen1 modules are knowingly inferior, it does not make sense for Toyota to continue to produce and offer Gen1 modules even in its intended installation UNLESS it has a supply of old packs with old modules that it needs to clear out.

    So, I think the only real answer can be provided by someone with connections at Toyota, OR someone who has cracked open a recently replaced pack. That's what I was hoping for... :)

    Thanks,

    Steve
     
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  11. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If we were to find out that the new G1 traction battery uses the same modules as G2 and G3, then the winning solution for a G2 owner needing a new battery would be to buy the new G1 battery, sell the extra 10 modules on eBay for $50 each, and call it a day.

    ...Except for that pesky core charge...
     
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  12. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Yes indeed. That thought occurred to me about a week ago.

    Stinkin' cores...
     
  13. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Whelp... I've given up on this pack. The two modules are still stellar. A handful will put out very low current (less than 1A) in the 1000-5000mAh range, but NONE have shown any significant improvement.

    There are two Prius C packs available in my area (Gen3 modules). One from an 8K car and another from a 16K car. That will leave me with only two spare modules and $1,650 invested in the two packs.

    During the same search effort, I located someone who "consolidates" good modules (based solely on as-removed voltage) into packs and sells the packs for $400. I'm going to buy two and take my chances. I figure I'll have a decent shot at getting 38 good ones out of 56. These are Gen2 packs.

    More to come...
     
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  14. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The only thing that really works is re-hydration but I could never solve how to seal the holes.

    My current speculation is to drill the 'pressure relief' valve and run a plastic tube between two modules. Clamped, they would then actually be a true pressure relief compared to the current valve.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  15. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    I've been thinking about that a bit. I'm thinking If we could determine the plastic, we could possibly use a solvent to bond a "plug" in place - something along the lines of acetone and ABS. I routinely use acetone to enhance the strength of my ABS 3D printed pieces. When the acetone evaporates, the ABS is "welded" in place.

    I have a friend who can do FTIR analysis of plastics, but his database is very limited... I wonder if he could determine the "family" of plastics to get me on the right track towards a solvent or other bonding agent... Hmmm...

    Or, could one fashion a "mushroom" plug type of mechanical seal...

    Whatever the case... I'll have 36 cells with which to play!

    Steve
     
  16. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I tried JB Weld, a two-part epoxy but could never get a good seal.

    I bought a plastic-weld kit from Harbor Freight but could not find a plastic that had similar characteristics as the thermal plastic.

    Another user has tried a fine-pitch, stainless steel, sheet metal screw. There are thermal expansion effects never really explained.

    I had thought about sacrificing a module to harvest the plastic. But plastic welding requires high-temperature (burn hazard); heater surface that won't pull the melted plastic back, and; some bulk heating of the existing case around the hole to make a through weld. The Toyota patent discusses this approach but it looked more like a manufacturing approach to full-refurbishment. Worse, it does nothing for the weakness, the "O" rings that can melt and leak.

    I think the better approach is to drill out the safety valve and pair modules connected via well clamped, plastic tubing. As pressure increases, a collar clamp on the tube should improve the seal as the pressure increases. The tubing flex would moderate the pressure on the already weak, "O" rings.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  17. 3prongpaul

    3prongpaul Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100's of Prius's

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    As of Sept 2015 "new" Gen1 packs from the dealer all contain modules that look like Gen1 modules (plastic sides, slightly smaller than Gen2 modules). I have no idea about the cell composition inside the modules.
     
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  18. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Hi Steve,

    You should read the thread on battery rehydration. Re-hydrating the battery modules. | PriusChat
    Here is a link to the instructions for Toyota's resealing procedure. http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/TIS/ileaf/toyssc/toysspdf/sscsourc/2004/40g/40gtech.pdf

    Page 52 lists the plastics used in the module cases. Mostly a PPE/ PP blend with a bunch of other stuff mixed in. The cases are labeled PPE/PP but you have to look closely to find it. PPE is Poly Phenylane Ether. PP is Polyproplene.

    Brad
     
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  19. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Paul,

    Thanks for the info.

    Brad,

    Thank you for the links and the material info. I'll definitely get there at some point AFTER I get the car back on the road.

    Well, as to the sealing process, now I know what that goop is all over the tops of the terminals. Based on Didn't help much as we had seepage around the positive terminals, and it was a PAIN to clean off. What a mess.
     
  20. S Keith

    S Keith Senior Member

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    Two Gen2 packs in hand. After recording resting voltage and IR of each module (pretty big range), I grid charged the first for about 24 hours. Peak voltage seemed low at 230. I would have expected 235+.

    Steve
     
    #60 S Keith, Sep 29, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2016
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