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cost or diy valve seats and rings

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by terramir, Aug 12, 2018.

  1. terramir

    terramir Member

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    If you look up our 2nd gen and the non hybrid brother engine it says fix for oil consumption issue valve seat and ring (assume Piston rings) was meant.
    I wonder what it will cost to do this can it be done diy it is this too advanced ? Either way how much would this cost?
    terramir.
    Ehhh hmm valve stem seals and Piston rings
     
    #1 terramir, Aug 12, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2018
    DLC82SV likes this.
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    On that engine, I would rank it a very uninviting job to try while the engine is in the car. The two-part oil pan means you don't have easy access to the big ends just by taking a pan off the bottom; you need to take both parts off, with the upper section having joints with the timing cover and bell housing, and requiring replacement of the rear main seal after being reassembled. Stem seals might not be terribly difficult, if you have no intention of adjusting valve clearance while you're in there. Clearance adjustments are a nightmare, you make them by replacing lifters, which are sold in 35 different sizes and there are 16 of them, so you need a giant inventory, or the patience to have the car out of service while you measure which 16 you need and then wait for orders to arrive. Reassembling the engine involves a lot of form-in-place gasket material, where you need to get every surface squeaky clean, the proper size bead of FIPG applied everywhere, and all the covers put back right on the first try, all within the number of minutes working time for the FIPG, or you scrape it all off and start over. In the cramped quarters working in the car, that can be a recipe for frustration.

    It's all easier with the engine removed, but with the engine removed, it's also easy to drop in a cheap used one with lower miles, and call it a day.

    The Gen 3 engine is a bit more inviting to work on because its hydraulic valve lifters eliminate the whole clearance-setting nightmare. They just have to work, and any that don't work, you replace; there's no pick-the-right-size-out-of-35 nonsense. Still has the two-piece bottom though.

    -Chap
     
  3. terramir

    terramir Member

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    So if I got a used engine and had it on a bench I could take my time but how hard is it actually to drop in a new engine and well when it comes to the lifters rings valve stem seal and main seal how much would that add to cost I mean while you have that used engine out you might as well do a rebuild BTW what else should be replaced for a trouble free 200k ?
    terramir
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how much oil are you burning?
     
  5. terramir

    terramir Member

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    I do not know exactly yet but then again I been doing lots of high revs cause my HV battery is dying just ordered 22 modules hoping that there decent enough to restore performance / milage and cut out the high rev's after that I will be able to track it better but I dumped a qt and a qtr in recently and I did not like this also it's quite a bit darker these days be doing an oil change tomorrow then I'll be able to tell in about 2-3 weeks how much it really is but is definitely more than before. This is just a preliminary inquiry cause with the close to death battery you really can't tell anything especially with 90+ F temps which means AC all day.
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    search around for a lower mile engine and tranny. after that and the battery, the only other major ticket is the cat.
     
  7. terramir

    terramir Member

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    Yeah 22 battery modules are coming if there even somewhere close to what the guy told me, after charging load and capacity testing I will just have to pick the best I know that ten of my Battery modules are fairly decent 5.5 to 6 Ah I'll have 32 modules to pick from :- ).
    Have another 32+ modules that are gonna suffer my refilling experiment I will see how that turns out.
    As for the transaxle I recently changed the fluid again and this time it looked much better than when I replaced it when I got The car now three years ago. Not much sparkle this time.
    Yeah new oxygen sensors and a cat acid experiment is also on my list I have not quite figured out how I will maintain the 150 F for 6hrs that that paper talked about. Maybe a makeshift solar stove and a temp sensor. I think everyone I read about didn't quite adhere to the temperature. Hoping it will last longer than a few months if the temperature is adhered to.
    Now I'll have to save up for a motor and transaxle low milage but that will probably take me about 8 months to the year. And I need to ensure that I have the budget for a shop rental for like several days to ensure I can finish installing it if I get delayed. But If everything goes according to plan this car will make it to 500k + miles 20+ yrs. there are other plans, but that is so OT. Still wondering how much it would cost to replace the rings and valve seals but I figure since the push was towards used engines that it's probably more money than a used engine transmission combo.
    terramir