Could I DIY these repairs?

i'll start:

2010-2015-toyota-prius-p0102

watch

watch

check-emgine-light-code-p1118.61777

p1118-check-engine-light-code.100185

 

You could take those parts off another car at LKQ or some large salvage operation they would probably give them to you or charge you $20. Even the sensor and what have you All of it transfer it over might take you 2 hours I don't know you tell me if it's worth whatever you set up above $1,200 I have all that stuff laying right here. I have a beautiful '08 sitting here that I drive everyday and every couple weeks it'll give me the I think it's 1151 the coolant recovery tank code. I have instant heat no loss of coolant car drives great no drips on the ground nothing in the fender well so I'm thinking it's either the temp sensor or the pump not coming on or something like that but I figured they would have an individual code for the pump or the fluid not moving in the coolant tank and that have a code for the sensor and I guess there's some kind of maybe the coolant control valve works with this business. And all of that on this '08 seems to be fine so I just clear it when it pops up and keep an eye on the car but it's driving perfectly has good heat I can't imagine what else could be going too wrong in the coolant recovery system with the car running and driving like this.

 

By looking at the four cars generation twos I have sitting here the coolant heat storage tank code 1151 I don't really understand what's going on the car's not been wrecked ever the coolant heat storage tank has no dents no leaks no drips nothing so other than the pump pumping the fluid or the temp sensor sensing the fluid or possibly the coolant control valve I think the coolant control valve is involved in this those are the only three pieces that would make sense to fool with change or any of it The sensor could be tested with the DVOM I'm pretty sure The pump could be tested by putting 12 volts to it to see if it works and then finding out why it's not being turned on by the car some ECM or something if the pump doesn't work with the 12 volt supplied maybe put another pump there out of the junk car and then the coolant control valve but usually when that's acting up it makes a noise you hear it everybody talks about it and it gets replaced. I haven't replaced the coolant control valve yet so I will assume the four cars I have they've been replaced by other people doesn't look like it but you can't really tell. But all those parts from a junk car you know even at high retail would be like $20 for the sensor $20 for the pump $20 for the coolant control valve at LKQ and more than likely they've probably already been replaced kind of goes with the territory.

 

The MAF sensor on this car is ridiculously easy to replace, there is no way I would pay somebody to do that. But before replacing it I would try to determine if it was just dirty and could be fixed with a can of MAF cleaner spray.

How does he know that temp sensor is bad? Seems like an unlikely part to fail, although I guess the wires to it might have been damaged by rodents or in an accident. Get Techstream and see if you can read the values from it and if they seem reasonable. Legit Techstream only supports expensive dongles for the OBD2, but the cheap mini-VCI cables do work, as do the Techstream's of dubious legality that come with them. It used to be hard to install these hacked versions but now it can be had already installed in an XP image which can be mounted in VirtualBox in any version of Windows.

The coolant valve is a minor PITA to replace due to space constraints. That said, if you have space to work and time and a few tools you can certainly do it. But if you don't have one of those cable driven water clamp wrenches get one first as there is very little space to get a conventional wrench or pliers onto some of the hoses.

 

That's why I always pray that people left the Toyota squeeze and slide clamps in place because you can get your long 45° needle-nose pliers down there easily and slide those clamps down just like butter flip the pliers around grab onto the hose twist at the barbed fitting and then move the pliers down and pull the hose off Do that like three times and well your valve is undone when I put my valve back on one of these cars I didn't even bolt it back to the frame it's just hanging there on the three hoses It doesn't weigh anything even hot it just sits there doesn't move I'm seems just fine.