Cracked coolant bypass hose "Y", steam, stopped, now won't start and P3191

I'm about out of ideas on why this ICE won't start....

I'm working on a 2010 Prius - the car cracked the coolant bypass hose plastic "Y" (the one by the front core support / radiator area - P/N 16264-37060) - the car of course blew hot coolant and steam everywhere and they stopped driving at that point. It was towed to their house and they said the next day they were able to drive the car around the parking lot - but when I got there the ICE wouldn't start and only crank over then wouldn't do anything next time I went to ready the car except say "check hybrid system". I checked and it had a few codes for misfires logged and a P3190 and P3191 logged. I cleared codes and was able to use the battery to get it on the trailer and back to my house to work on fixing it.

I located the coolant problem but it still was only going 'ready' and logging P3191 (engine failed to start from what I understand). I've checked that the fuel pump runs and pumps fuel when fed with power (I don't have the "T" to test pressure) - is there a discrete relay that controls the fuel pump??, the MAF is clean and dry, plugs and coils have been swapped (plugs looked in fair shape). 12v battery tests good, charged anyhow to 100% (smart charger) with no change.

freeze frame data shows the following (from what I remember - nothing jumped out) 8xx RPM, MAF shows 58g/s, 7sec run time (assume crank time since I believe it only cranks for 8 seconds??), Fuel Sys1 shows OL (open loop?), FuelSys 2 shows n/a, throttle position, coolant temp, etc. all showed reasonable values.

The diagnostic says to check MAF, Coolant Sensor, cam and crank position sensors - since engine showed RPM - wouldn't that say that the crank sensor is OK? MAF was showing airflow so I assume that is OK,

ANY ideas on what to look at next would be greatly appreciated! I have another 2010 that my wife is driving that I can 'borrow' parts temporarily from if there is something simple to swap over to test.

AND I've now got to charge the traction battery somehow as it came up with a low traction battery error the last time it tried to start... UGH... Anyone know an easy/cheap way to do a 1-time charge other than getting an RC car charger and charging each pack one at a time (or buying a $$$ charger)? Just need enough charge in there to get it started if I can find the issue...

 

1) Unknown - I wasn't driving it - can only pass on what was said that they "pulled over when they saw smoke" (steam I assume)
2) 1 lap around - probably less than 1/4 mile - I'm guessing on battery...

Engine "sounds" like it has compression as while it's cranking it sounds awful similar to the roughness caused by a stuck EGR valve. I'll have to get an old laptop to install the techstream software on... I've got one I bought a while back that I've never installed as I've been able to look at everything via my other scan tools...