Craziest prius mind boggling hybrid system failure P0A80

Get a statement from Toyota saying it's a PERMANANT code and can't be erased.
Perhaps you will be able to pass inspection.

 

Have you called or tried the 2 locations I mentioned above?

They specialize in hybrids and should be more adept at helping.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

If they tell you "this will fix the car", and it doesn't. They either can't charge you, or have to re-intall the original GOOD part.
That's how it works in Florida.

 

No; the whole point of permanent DTCs is to prevent vehicles from passing that shouldn’t. As I tried to explain in post #6, permanent doesn’t mean forever, just that the DTC can’t be cleared using a Techstream system or any other diagnostic tool. The ECU is programmed to clear the DTC itself after the problem is fixed, that is, when the detection conditions are no longer met after a certain amount of driving.

If the drive cycles have been done, and the DTC is still there—and the flash reprogramming described in Toyota bulletin T-SB-0100-12, “MIL ‘ON’ DTC P0A80 due to Dust or Debris in HV Battery Cooling Fan,” has also been done, as I believe @Jakemathews mentioned—then the focus should be on the detection conditions. In other words, why is the battery smart unit still reporting that the voltage difference is larger than standard?

Since this DTC requires drive cycles to reach a judgment, I’d imagine that the detection condition involves more than just a one-time measurement of the HV battery voltages. Perhaps the voltages are fine when the car is parked, but as it’s driven and the battery is charged and discharged, differences greater than the (undisclosed) threshold are being measured.

The Repair Manual lists the HV battery assembly—which could still be the problem, especially if it wasn’t new when installed—and the battery smart unit itself as possible trouble areas. There is also the wiring, of course, though if it were just a broken wire, I’d expect one or more of the “Hybrid Battery Voltage Sensor” DTCs might also appear. In post #11, I mentioned the Data List check of voltage differences called for in the Repair Manual procedure for P0A80. Has anyone done this, or tried replacing the battery smart unit?

 

I was only thinking that "might" allow him to pass. I don't know how they determine it.
The abs light on my Van does that. Since it's not important to me, I don't care. I know how to
drive in wet or sandy conditions, by NOT driving too fast for conditions....
I only remember it activating when I was trying to get it to work in a parking lot, driving over the
painted lines and slamming on the brakes. It's a weird feeling, that I don't like.

Seems to me that Toyota SHOULD know this and tell him to drive for shorter trips to get it to clear.
Unless you need LONGER trips to clear it. But whatever, the SHOULD know. Of course we all know
just because they SHOULD know, doesn't mean the DO know!

 

Was this issue resolved? Having the same problem.

 

Have you found a solution to this? I am having a similar problem. Was on the brink of getting new HV battery, but decided to pull the battery and test it with a multimeter. Every block is perfectly balanced with every other. All measure 16.0V or 16.1V, very little variance. Yet I've been getting that P0A80 code for weeks and the dealer would just LOVE to sell me a new battery. (of course)

 

How about their internal resistance figures, and their voltage deltas under heavy load or heavy charge?

Reading voltages on them while they're just sitting there doesn't tell you much.

 

I don't want to hijack this fella's thread, but as for me I did tests while sitting as well as tests while driving a various speeds, including heavy acceleration and heavy braking. Side by side driving & reading results are posted here, if it helps anyone as well as my dealer scan printout: Prius v: Multiple Warning Lights, Hybrid Battery Code, but 12v Disconnect Fixes it. Huh?! | Page 4 | PriusChat

 

Permanant codes take like 1,500-2,000 miles to automatically erase. I had the same code after a replacement and it went away on its own.

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