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Custom Enginer 5kW 800 miles tank

Discussion in 'Prius PHEV Plug-In Modifications' started by JonnyD, Feb 1, 2011.

  1. mrbigh

    mrbigh Prius Absolutum Dominium

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    It is NOT the current of the DC-DC converter, it's the constant higher output voltage while working
     
  2. Flying White Dutchman

    Flying White Dutchman Senior Member

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    nice topic
    includig those pot adjustment pictures!
     
  3. evmecanicx

    evmecanicx New Member

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    I agree that the voltage is higher but even our first kits were 253 volts and they did not eat up prius batteries. The enginer kit on outputs like 12-16amps or so. how many amps flow when you take a 253volt "single battery" and put it in parallel with the o.e. pack? It has to flow ALOT more because it supports true prolonged EV driving. I would guess that it has to be 3-4 times what the enginer kit flows. I think this guy name Joules said something about current flow and heat.....I don't want to get in a p*ssing match but bottom line is that a enginer kit is not the greatest performer but many professional installers will agree that it is the one that will do the LEAST potential damage to the existing vehicle...bottom line. Not that I really think anything out there is really damaging cars anyways expect maybe crazy installs in the back yard.

    As for the original post the Modification seems solid and I can not wait to experiment.
     
  4. SFGiant-and-Plugin-Fan

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    Is it possible to use a combination of converter in the tire well approach and removal of the Enginer box (per Adric) to save enough space to install the spare with the unit above the tire well? :rolleyes:
     
  5. JonnyD

    JonnyD Junior Member

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    I had to adjust both of mine to increase current charge.
    Try adjusting the Operating voltage first if you still don't see any current then go for the Max Voltage.
    Patiently with 1/4 turn and monitor results.


    You can definitely go with multiple converter (and batteries) in the spare tire well. As a matter of fact that's how I had it before. But I found that as long as the converter kicks in with 13A is sufficient to my driving habit. 16A would be perfect but I rather loose couple mpg than dealing with multiple converter. I had the dual converter setup fried before, with the theory that the noise from one killed the other.

    I just want a working solution (even partial), I'm done with experimenting with Enginer as my warranty period is up even though the kit was only working for two months.
     
  6. Flaninacupboard

    Flaninacupboard Senior Member

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    It would be possible, but i'm not sure i want my electronics spread around my spare, and you end up with long runs of fairly low voltage high amperage cables which is inefficient. Cooling would also have to be carefully considered.
     
  7. Flaninacupboard

    Flaninacupboard Senior Member

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    I'm still not convinced. i've been watching the gauges while my wife drives, and have seen in excess of 250V in normal hybrid mode (kit is switched off) when braking. It will sit at that level while stationary, then drop back to 240 and then then 230 when you start moving again.

    I am going to call it a draw considering reduced cycling with (mildly) elevated voltage.

    When (if) my HV pack craps out, i want a singular 10kwh plus replacement anyway, so if it only lasts five years i'll kind of be happy :)
     
  8. lopezjm2001

    lopezjm2001 Senior Member

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    Can you explain how the Toyota HV battery can easily take up to 100 amps charge during regenerative braking. It is only the CCL (current charge limit) value that limits how much current can be charged into the HV battery. The maximum value of CCL is 125 amps. It seems that it is only HV battery temperature and SOC that limits this value.

    There is no reason why the HV battery pack cannot take 100 amps charge from a dc converter, we just do not have a converter that could do that efficiently and be supercooled. You would also need a Enginer battery pack that could supply 100 amps x 5 = 500 amps and stay within battery cell rating limits. The Enginer battery pack cables would also need to have be a bigger gauge to decrease voltage sag. The converter would also have to connect to the battery side of the hall effect sensor and a SOC spoofing device would also be needed so that the Hybrid ECU does not get confused and throw a DTC error. The HV fan would need to be running at full speed.
     
  9. NortTexSalv04Prius

    NortTexSalv04Prius Active Member

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    I found this older thread but (I am) real interest in the NO BMS by thread op. Is this still working out
    Several things from my personal perspective (I have 4kw kit) no bms need to charge hv pack I get and understand that method.(enginer componets for charge not the best)/statement. Discharge of Lifepo4 not so sure about with Enginer. also 5kw configure
    Issues
    SOC no measure of lifepo4 packs only oem pack with SG2

    thanks
    Eric becky
    lopez
    mr Big
    Johnny D