Cv axle boot replacement.

Replace the seals at the transaxle too? And the transaxle fluid, goes without saying I guess?

From what I've read, mostly regarding third gens, it's not a trivial job, and tricky. I'd choose third party mechanic carefully, and ask if he's experienced with Prius.

 

You could drain into a (very) clean pan and reuse. Might need an extra quart for top up: just for insurance.

 

Or get one out of a low mileage wreck. It will be OEM quality, but have no warranty. Thus far, I have not been burned by using "re-homed" parts

 

I have never lost more than a cup of fluid, less if the side you are working on is lifted higher than the opposite. I have also never replaced a seal that is not already leaking. There are certain risks to replacing parts that are not causing a problem.

Hopefully they used WS fluid!

 

I thought it was the outer joint boot?

If so no transmission interaction at all. Its the inner joint that has to be pulled from the differential.
But if during the replacement of the outer joint I would ask the tech to check the differential seals where the inner joint enters the diff and see if there weeping at all. If so I would get them replaced eventually.. .which requires pulling the inner joints.

But the diff seals at the inner are not prone to leaking on a G2 so there probably fine.

So...the whole thing sucks lol.

But I would buy the a brand new oem joint complete with boot and then start calling around to tire stores. Its a really common repair to replace a cv joint and there's nothing different on a prius compared to any other car on the road. I'm trying to picture in my mind if the steering knuckle has to be disconnected from the strut and not sure but if it does usually a front end alignment is needed. Your car probably needs it anyway. That's $79.99 at a tire store. Well worth the money no matter what.

Then clean the cv boots on both sides all four of them and get a rag and soak it with Protectant and wipe the boots down and your good to go. Theirs 2 more boots in the back for the steering rack also. Been doing this for a long long time and have never ever lost a boot. Losing a boot quickly totals the joint.

 

Yeah theirs another pair a little farther back that are used to the steering rack joints. To be honest my boots are usually pretty clean I just spray protectant all over them and wipe it in. The rubber really likes it. Its just like the rubber moldings around the window. No love they dry up. Especially in this heat.

Happy Motoring!

 

They want to use aftermarket because there so cheap they can add there own little jack up on top of it. I understand financially if you have to use aftermarket as $500 is alot of money. Got to do what you have to do. It will run ok but to me the thought of it failing again rather fast and having to do it all over again and this time do it right with oem parts your then at $1200 dollars. I have learned that lesson many times as I am a slow learner lol.

I see the outers on ebay for $40. Good luck man. Report back.

 

I think there is no hurry at all. Take your time to find the very best deals on both part and labor. I often prefer to purchase my own parts. Firestone lifetime alignment is good value if needed. They may even offer good deal if you purchase alignment and drive axle installation together.

 

Awesome you reach a decision.

$185 for inclusive labor seems reasonable.
$ Aftermarket axle (boot grease and all) with major price savings.

Now the delay question.
Sure you could wait until failure or noise.
That would be as if you didn't even know there was a repair problem.
So, yes, you may be able to wait a month or two as you gather the money.

Keep on eye on grease getting thrown onto the brake rotors during the delay.
But if raining or driving is dusty/ dirty area...I repeat, do the repair sooner than later.

Last comment, which some other co-member or research may revel, is what would occur during a failure?
Other than a clicking noise: Excess heat - trans oil and brakes. Over cooked brakes - pulling to one side, excess stopping distance. Locked axle - freezing steering. Broken axle - digging into pavement. Scattering parts - body, undercarriage, paint damage. Lack of grease and heat - damaged wheel bearing/ hub or trans bearing.

Just guessing/ thinking outside the box for the above list; as personally am not one to typically delay repairs until failure.
The list may be completely irrelevant.

Have fun and again good decision.

 

You can find my thread a while back that didnt generate that much discussion but I replaced mine at a local garage with good reviews on yelp before the car was declared a total loss in a not at caukt accident. non-OEM worked okay but I was convinced there was some clunking when stopping and accelerating at times and also some slight vibration at a certain throttle point. The clunking ended up lessening in noise after a few weeks, and the original clicking that was there when turning on U turns disappeared. So nom OEm works okay but may have more noise.. the one installed didnt have the dampener in the middle like the OEM one.

 

I had an error code that got checked at the dealership (dying hybrid battery, other story). Their multi-point inspection spotted a leaking CV boot on the inner passenger side. Quote was $415.90 for replacing "both boots" there. In line with the original poster's price.

I just got a quote from another mechanic where they do good work, backed up by 3-year warranty on repairs. I've known this place in the past to be just below dealership prices, so I was surprised when they came back with a quote of $200-210 to replace the whole right axle with a brand new part. They explained the whole axle with boots tends to be cheaper than a single boot.

Their price seems super cheap based on others' estimates here. What do you folks think?