Dashboard illuminated with too many warning lights

You should not check across the fuse for voltage, as you did for ohms. Pull the fuse and check from each of the two terminals to chassis ground. One side should read battery voltage (12V +/-), the other side should read zero. If both read zero, there's a problem with the wiring harness upstream and that's what we're looking for.

 

Yes, that's it. While you're doing that, inspect the fuse and contacts, look for broken and loose contacts as described in an earlier post.

 

Aha!
Now we're getting somewhere.
Dome light is always a good place to start with these types of issues.

 

To reiterate, you should have your multimeter set to measure DC voltage, not DC current or AC voltage. The black test lead is connected to body ground. It needs to be connected to unpainted metal, for example one of the nuts on the coil tower behind the main relay/fuse box.

The car is set to IG-ON, where all instrument panel warning lights are on.

The red test lead is used to measure for voltage at the fuse socket. When the fuse is removed, you should be able to measure 12V at one of the two fuse socket contacts.

If you are still getting zero volts at the 15A DOME fuse socket, then you have a serious wiring harness problem. The only other fuse between that point and the 12V battery is the 120A MAIN fuse which is located in the battery positive terminal. If any circuits are working, then that 120A MAIN fuse is OK.

 

Yes. Now you need to test the fuse sockets of the other fuses I had identified in post #71, and see whether 12V is not present at any of the sockets for those fuses.

The 30A PWR fuse is located at the relay/fuse box under the instrument panel, driver's side.

 

Excellent troubleshooting work and good observation of symptoms. Now we have some clues that will be helpful.

Since you say both rear windows do not work, my guess is that the power window master switch has a short which is causing the burning smell; or else the wiring harness that connects the 30A PWR fuse to that switch has a problem.

See if you can detect the burning smell at the switch, located in the driver's door, inside panel.

 

OK, so something is clearly wrong in the battery area where you did your work.
You'll have to dismantle everything again and start checking things.
I would make sure there is not a high voltage leak/grounding issue before digging around too much back there.
Then proceed methodically checking every connection. Maybe taking some pictures along the way.
I had a HV battery done by a dealer mechanic who accidentally forgot to tighten some important connections. It created some orange which damaged other components.
I've also seen eBay replacement cells which literally blew up, leaving chunks of plastic exploded inside the case. Smoke and residue inside the car.
Hopefully the problem is self evident as you start to investigate.

Good luck and post some pics if you want to.