Dead Battery Advice Please

Well.... If the used $250 battery comes with the whole pack, meaning the metal chassis, covers, relays, ECU, bus bars, and ready to go and you throw it in and bolt it down... Then yes... But I'd try to talk 'em down because at times I only pay $50 for those kind of battery packs at a wrecker... and be careful about it being a legit pack and not just a stack of bad modules a rebuilder ditched.

But if yes to being legit, a 2nd pack is a great place to start if you 1st load test it, charge, recondition, build a spreadsheet, as well as clean or replace bus bars, new nuts, new voltage sensing harness... Get it all upgraded as much as possible from condition you bought it in and then swap it with pack in you car. Then rebuild the pack in your car... That way you'll always be able to swap battery packs whenever you have a problem, or better yet help a friend who has a problem with their battery pack.

You're less than 200K from 1/2 million mile club! You can do it!!!!

 

But in general taking modules from one pack to build another pack is not ideal with basic gear and best left to people with expensive equipment. You're better off keeping the pack whole for as long as possible and just replacing failing modules as they fail or are about to fail... You can get really good replacement modules that will be strongest ones in your pack for $30 each if you know who to order from...

 

A voltage tester, some wires, your car's headlight bulb 12v / 55w or equivalent if you have LED headlights, which won't work... The testing process is simple... Learn more here: Prolong® Battery Module Load Tester User Guide

 

The HV battery fan will run at various speeds as needed, unless overridden or an appropriate DTC is detected.

Tell us more about this OBD2 code reader you're using?

Please post all current and prior OBD2 codes here.

 

Look into procuring a Toyota Hybrid compatible OBD2 reader, it appears the current reader isn't fully compatible. Could also try the various auto part chains or nearby repair facilities, they may offer a compatible loaner. Many here use a mini-vci cable or bluetooth adapter.

What were those ABS codes again?

Did you check the orange safety plug for proper installation?

 

It’s a 3 motion process .

Push it down too.

 

Those DTCs should clear if you power cycle the vehicle a few times. Best to pick up a mini-vci cable or bluetooth adapter at this stage, wouldn't be surprised if you have other OBD2 codes (DTCs) that aren't being read.

What kind of vehicle maintenance have you performed in the last 300k (plugs, injectors, fluids, etc) ?

Here is the workup for :

DTCs P1259 and C1310 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic12595.pdf

DTC P3190 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip3190a.pdf

 

My guess is the engine was not actually running but trying to start. Read around the site about cleaning the MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and air filter also if they haven’t been done in a while.

 

Your original battery got run down because the engine is not running properly. The replacement battery will get quickly discharged if you do not find the problem with the engine.

+1

 

I would get a miniVCI and use a win 7 or XP laptop for the software. It's a pirated version of Techstream and can tell you about your individual modules, reprogram your battery cooling fan, and detect and reset as needed the DTC codes. I have an old Dell XP, and with the cable and software I have about $60 in it. Don't currently have a Prius (sold my 02 a couple of months ago.) But I'm planning on keeping the laptop and cable for future Pri's. Really is a great, cheap tool.

 

Actually it works on any Toyota, Lexus or Scion. It not just for the Prius.