Death toll risers for Prius electric compressors

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by lech auto air conditionin, Feb 27, 2020.

  1. lech auto air conditionin

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    Death toll risers for Prius electric compressors

    A video tells 1000 words proof is in the pudding.


    since I was 12 when I started with my father and him teaching me air-conditioning there was one common thing with the majority of burnt up compressors. Low refrigerant level !!!...
    We will leave our overcharged refrigerant
    We will leave out excess of moisture contamination that causes an acid that makes metals rust and oil’s breakdown
    We will leave out excess of air mixed in refrigerant with poor refrigerant recycling practices and poor top off and recharge methods.
    When I walk up to a Prius and I hear that internets clicking groaning sound or the grinding sound of a dead compressor I’m almost always guaranteed to have a low refrigerant level every time. Unless some other human being was meddling with little refrigerant cans. Sometimes the human factor is the most destructive.
     
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  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Any easy DIY inspection technique? Say watching the sight glass? How should it appear when it's about right?
     
  3. lech auto air conditionin

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    Site glass is a very poor indicator of whether or not a system is correctly charged or under charged for overcharged.
    Even though in Toyota and other manufacturers have some literature written down about using the site glass. Much of this literature has been re-printed from literature from back in the 70s and 80s.
    Even Toyotas on the website on oil fill capacity and how to measure and calculate oil is really convoluted sometimes absolutely useless even dangerous for the life of your compressor or performance of your AC.
    Easy yes correct all the time no but as a general rule of thumb can get you by.
    Works on a hot day say 80° plus with your vehicle in the sun set to fresh air mode outside not recycle all your doors open run your AC on high fan speed cold as possible but not max because that will set your air selector to recycle you do not want recycle selected.
    Run your air conditioning for about 10 minutes to let it equalize and stabilize on that 80° plus day. Now this is where people get hands burnt and fingers chopped by fans that turn on. If it could be safely done I put my hand all the way down on the suction line as it enters the compressor and it should be nice and cool.
    Under ideal conditions and if humidity was high you would see water condensating on all the surface of the metal line set the suction side going all the way back to the compressor. You cannot use condensation of water on the line if the humidity is low because it probably will not condensate because the dewpoint is too high.
    If the return gas line is cool the compressor and a electric windings like that cool refrigerant flow keeping the compressor happy with a long life and oil return.
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    The "return" line is which one here (3rd gen Prius)? I guess it'll be the one that's colder, lol, but just for the record:

    IMG_2031.JPG

    Sight glass is on the left one, with the "H" (for High Pressure?). My money's on it being the right one that's the cold one (or should be), with the "L" (for Low Pressure).
     
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  5. lech auto air conditionin

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    yes you are correct the big one is the suction line that should be the cold one, and the little one is the one with the site glass that should be the warm one.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Thanks, I'll check that out. Have to wait a while though, chilly and wet now :(.

    Yeah I was thinking too: smaller diameter is high pressure, and vice versa.
     
  7. Glen2007

    Glen2007 Junior Member

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    Phoenix AZ summer 115 +. 2007 240k no ac problems just trying to see charge of system. Called 2 shops today was quoted 50 bucks just to hook up gauges then 1 shop said if I need 4 oz 134a I threw that out as a what you gonna charge to top me off = extra 50 bucks. For me there is NO guarantee that their gauges are not contaminated with pag oil. What to do? I know most gauges on amazon and ebay are iffy. If I spend 50 plus on gauges at lest they are not contaminated. A hybrid shop first quoted me $150 we will vac everything then add .9 lbs to your system. Im pretty sure the spec is 16 oz 1 pound so I did not feel safe. If I buy some half way decent gauges I will know I am not going to be ripped off in the future and no contamination. So what gauges ? and lets say at 80 degrees what should be the low side and the high side. I dont want to go into ac out vent temps just high low readings on gauges. Thank you
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    I went with dealership (about 2 years back?), they quoted $150 to evacuate, test and recharge. Of course when the service writer was wrapping up she started explaining about "all the extras", I went a little ballistic, and got out of there "close" to $150 (CDN). I hate those service writers, and the whole hustling system. First time in a long time I'd darkened their doorstep. Apart from visits to the parts department.

    We'd had lacklustre AC performance for some time; hopefully they knew what they were doing.

    Again, thanks for the tip, I'll do that come summer. (y)
     
  9. lech auto air conditionin

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    wow, i know it's tough. I give the highest price first no nickle and dine extras, no low price and you needed to read the small print after the* no give the charge for a small price and rape the customer for the parts replacement and labor. I to worked at those places long ages in a past life. I can't stand some service writers, managers, service advisers. padding the bill, adding extras. dealers, chain stores, franchises, independent, you name it been there done that!!!... I almost totally gave up on the automotive trade I was so sick what I would see shop after shop. usually the owner can not turn a wrench but not always but most of the time. i'v had some many family members get ripped off from automotive shops. I have a chip on my shoulder about this topic. That's why when I see a vary honest shop I praise them. So far and few between.
    I don't know how I would do it as a consumer. to find a shop that dose not top off refrigerant, only use new refrigerant not recycled from a old dirty RRR recharge recycle machine that has not had it's filter drier changed in years.

    As for cheap gauges I did a YouTube video on that, ebay, amazon , harbor fright. I get to see shops actually buy and try to use them on customers cars. They are inaccurate, leak, can not pass a deep sub micron decay test or a high pressure Nitrogen decay test.
    My vary first refrigerant manifold gauges I bought with my own money back in 1984 was a TIF big blue aluminum block 4 port with large inner valves, Teflon seals, bourdon 1% accurate, large 2 1/2' or 3' glycerine filled gauges. It cost a weeks wages back then.
     
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  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    yeah but the free donuts though.....
     
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