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Details of rear jacking point.

Discussion in 'Gen 4 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Georgina Rudkus, Aug 15, 2020.

  1. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Can anyone who owns a Generation 4 Prius measure the diameter of the hole at the bottom of the rear jacking point shown in the photo? A friend in another part of the country has asked me to make a jacking adapter for her.

    Thanks in advance. gen 4 rear jacking point close up.jpg
     
  2. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Here's what I got on my Prime. I can't imagine why it would differ from a regular Gen 4.

    IMG_2266.jpg IMG_2267.jpg
     
  3. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Thank you very much.
     
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  4. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    It means that it will take an M8x1.25 rivet nut and bolt. An upside down piece of 1/4 inch aluminum diamond plate bolted to the rivet nut with a countersunk M8x1.25x20 hex socket bolt will provide a non slide locking grip on the rubber pad of a flat top racing jack.

    The jack sliding off is the worse problem in using the car's jacking points. The point slides off the pad without letting the assembly compensate with the jack's wheels.

    I did this with my Gen 3 2012 Prius v and made the rear jacked up car really stable. Before, I was afraid of the jacking point sliding off the jack.
     
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  5. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    My floor jack has sort of a flat cup shape to it. I cut a wooden disk that sits in that recess. It crushes down just enough that I've never had any slippage. But a pin like you have in mind would pretty much guarantee a solid lift. (y)
     
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  6. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    We made up this kit, today. Thanks to parts in kit.JPG plate assembled.JPG Jerrymildred for providing the information.
     
  7. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Hope it works well!
     
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  8. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    The Gen 3 version works great. fully jacked up close.JPG
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    What's it for, lateral stability?

    I've never had a problem, do always solidly chock both front wheels, fore and aft.
     
    #9 Mendel Leisk, Aug 17, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
  10. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    If there is not enough friction between the top of the jack and the jacking point, the jacking point will slide off of the top before the movement of the jack on its wheels move to compensate for the change in the length of the base of the triangle made by the front wheels is shortened and the jack is raised..

    It be basically two dynamic resistance parameters opposing each other. You want to ensure that the inertia of the jack's wheels give before the frictional resistance between the jacking point and the top of the jack is overcome.
     
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  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    So the Harbor Freight 'racing jack' doesn't have a cupped contact surface on the lifting point?
     
  12. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Almost all low profile "racing jacks" have flat tops foe access to low car chassis. The teeth of the "U" shaped cut leaves marks on the underside of the chassis and bens over "knife edge" standing seam pinch welds.
     
  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I thought we were discussing the rear jacking point, but these are a dime a dozen with several different designs available to resolve the issue you mentioned..



    floor jack adapter pinch weld - Google Search
     
    #13 TMR-JWAP, Aug 17, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
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  14. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    They don't fit correctly. The one rests on the "knife edge" of the vertical weld seam. The correct support point is the inside behind the vertical seam. Just look at the head of the Gen 2 and Gen 3 scissors jack. Gen 2-3 oblique view.jpg The slot in example you show sits the round pinch weld if the Gen 4 on two "knife edges."
     
    #14 Georgina Rudkus, Aug 17, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
  15. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    The top of the Gen 4 scissors jack looks like this. Gen 4 top view 2.jpg
     
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I just grabbed a quick link there. There's an additional link (it kind of hides a bit) below the photo which has several dozen different versions available for jacks and jack stands. I can't even begin to guess how many cars I've worked on that have damaged rails and floor boards. Adapter pads are not very expensive, but very few people seem to care.
     
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  17. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    We looked for years in an attempt to find a jacking adapter to fit the "knife edge" standing seam rails of the Gen 3 Prius, which is standard with many unibody Toyota vehicle. We have found none that were a perfect match. So, we made out own. stand w adapter close up.JPG
     
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  18. NewHybridOwner

    NewHybridOwner Active Member

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    At one point I noticed that the jack in the trunk of our old Chrysler 300M (now has a new home) had a solid top rather than the "split" top. I assume that when we got new tires or got our wheels switched over between seasons, someone put the wrong jack back in. Good job I didn't have a flat out on the road somewhere.
     
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  19. NewHybridOwner

    NewHybridOwner Active Member

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    I think it was someone on PC that suggested hockey pucks between those jack stands and the seam. I've used them a couple of times now, and they seem to work OK.
     
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  20. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    The hockey puck contacts the standing seam of the pinch weld's "knife edge" similar to an upside down tight rope walker.