Disengaging claws- How?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by tbone5803, Oct 11, 2018 at 12:07 PM.

  1. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    This is to remove the air duct sub-assembly. I can't figure out how to disengage the claws. Help me please?






     
    #1 tbone5803, Oct 11, 2018 at 12:07 PM
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2018 at 2:53 PM
  2. Jimi1976

    Jimi1976 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    217
    101
    0
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
  3. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    You can't see the diagram from TIS?
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Lapsed Cargo Cultist

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    28,212
    17,505
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    I would speculate you have to push the wall of the duct inward a bit, that there's a little protrusion on the duct, locking in a recess on what it's connecting into. There seems to be two cases: one at the end, and one along a seam running along the top. Just get a good light on it, pry gently and see what's going on.
     
  5. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Unfortunately that didn't quite work. I've attached more pictures of the actual areas. I think those are the areas by the diagram. The Toyota service instructions are pretty terrible. They give no direction on how things are done. Plus the diagrams are laughably small. I've tried prying it off in different directions and smashing the lip part down with a flathead screwdriver. It won't budge.
     
  6. RRxing

    RRxing Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2009
    1,889
    1,141
    0
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    Vehicle:
    2017 Prius
    Model:
    Three Touring
    Don't know if this helps...

    Screen Shot 2018-10-11 at 4.06.09 PM.png
     
  7. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    I'm going to Harbor Freight later and picking up some pry tools. I'm afraid my screwdriver will break something. I can see myself doing that as this is super frustrating. I kind of feel like just ripping the thing off.
     
  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2018
    374
    213
    0
    Location:
    Indian River County, Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    SCREW drivers are for SCREWING on and off.
    PRY bars are for PRYING.

    Use the CORRECT tool for the job, and use it the CORRECT way.
     
  9. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Still no luck with the pry tools. It's dark here so guess I'll try again tomorrow.
     
  10. jzchen

    jzchen Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    1,053
    216
    0
    Location:
    Arcadia, CA
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Five
    Masking tape carefully applied to the tip of the screwdriver?
     
  11. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2017
    818
    1,207
    9
    Location:
    California
    Vehicle:
    2016 Prius
    Model:
    Three Touring
    These aren’t the claws you’re looking for: the green circles in your photos seem to indicate fasteners that hold the two pieces of the duct sub-assembly together, not the two claws that hold it in place.

    It’s unfortunate that Toyota gives TIS subscribers only a relatively small bitmap version of the illustration, while users of the ChiltonLibrary service (available at no charge through many public libraries) get a vector version, which I’ve rasterized at a more reasonable size:

    2010-Prius-Duct.png

    The dashed circle on the right indicates the claw on the far side, which in this view is hidden behind the duct sub-assembly.

    I haven’t done it, but you might try gently prying one or both sides of the duct sub-assembly outwards, just enough to clear the claws as the sub-assembly is pulled away from the air conditioning unit. Don’t feel too bad if you break it, though: the No. 1 air duct sub-assembly is part number 87211-12350, list price $20.52.

    For 2010–2015, it seems Toyota was still producing the Repair Manual for print publication, with line art rather than renderings as used for later models (compared in this post and the following one).
     
    tbone5803 and Mendel Leisk like this.
  12. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Thanks for this, and the much better resolution. Weird how TIS refers to them as "claws". I'll have to look again to see if I'm really seeing the right areas and not other non-essential fasteners to remove the air duct assembly. I see one clearly connecting the unit from below. I have to get in a very acrobatic position lying down across the passenger floor looking up to see it. The other I'm not sure is correct at the top right in the illustration. I'll report back.
     
    Elektroingenieur likes this.
  13. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Update! It's off. Thanks Elek for giving me the courage to just pull it off. That's all it required. I pulled hard and it popped off. I don't think I broke it either. Now, from here I'm trying to reset the cog wheel. As you can see I have much better access to it now with the duct removed. I need to get that wheel back on track to allow the heat flappers to properly change modes. Does this look broken or like something I can reset? I started to loosen the screws on the actuator to see if I could possibly re position.

    IMG_0545.JPG IMG_0546.JPG IMG_0547.JPG IMG_0548.JPG
     
  14. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    It looks like the arm of the servo this not properly attached to the bigger wheel. Does anyone know where this connects? I attached it to the cog in the picture below although this must not be correct. It doesn't move it. The other wheels seem to move okay. The big one is not properly set. I just need to learn how the arm controls it.

    P1130360.JPG
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Lapsed Cargo Cultist

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    28,212
    17,505
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    That last picture looks very familiar, seems like other posters have been here.
     
  16. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    It was me. I've been having this same issue for almost a year.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  17. jzchen

    jzchen Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    1,053
    216
    0
    Location:
    Arcadia, CA
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Five
    The FSM must have a remove replace instruction for this, including which mode to set the climate control before turning off the vehicle so the cog is in the right orientation?
     
  18. tbone5803

    tbone5803 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2017
    34
    9
    0
    Location:
    Des Moines
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    I think I made a breakthrough. So I discovered there are two arms that control the flaps. The first one that is most visible is the heat to your feet. The back one furthest away is to the defrost flap. The large cog has grooves on it. I played around fitting the grooves into the arms, while switching modes. I got defrost blowing again, but the other modes seem to be off now. I think I'm satisfied for now but will probably look at it again soon. Any more help regarding the positioning of the cog in the grooves would be appreciated.
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Lapsed Cargo Cultist

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    28,212
    17,505
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    There might be helpful info in the attached. If not, or if you need more, lemmee know.
     

    Attached Files:

    gliderman likes this.
  20. jzchen

    jzchen Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2012
    1,053
    216
    0
    Location:
    Arcadia, CA
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Five
    Peg 47 displays the orientations....
     
Loading...