does P0AA6 with 526 and 612 sub codes point to the HV battery being the issue 100%?

That cable is likely to show as 614 though.

 

Looks like what's some others have noticed like Mr Guy Man is that if you're not extremely careful when bolting the modules to the bottom of the tray I think it is and you over torque or put a wrong bolt in there I guess you're going right into the battery module and liquid will come out eventually so it looks like to even find these HV leaks or at least this type. You have to literally take the module rack set completely off the bottom pan set to even have a chance of finding this I'll put it on my battery guy.

 

Well today I isolated the battery frame from the car with pure rubber so now the battery bottom tray the metal is sitting on rubber in the car at all mounting points All I needed some plastic bolts and the battery is just floating there essentially now it doesn't AA6 it 1310s pretty funny.

 

Measure the resistance between each module nut at the bottom and the positive and negative terminals. Quite often you can catch a short when the modules are hot, but after a few hours you may not see it.
One day I cut the nut area and it was embedded in the module plastic and not open to anything. I guess the plastic cracks inside and this is how the liquid gets to the nut.

 

Yes I I see what the basic concept and problem is here It's the battery builders issue so he will come pick it up the next few days In the meantime I'm going to flip it up on its edge and take my meter and touch every little screw that catches the modules on the bottom of the tray and see if any of those are live and certainly doesn't look like it would be the relays or any of that business I mean it just that just lets the power go from the battery up to the front of the car. Another poster was saying he's had two bad cables I guess the ones that run up to the inverter on the car side of the relays all the way up I can't imagine how that would even happen. But certainly interesting and something to look at but this is all located back here in the battery apparently and a few older batteries that I've removed from cars that were being junked and parted I remember seeing dried acid in between cells way in the middle of the pack on this pack was just built so I don't want to tear this guy's pack apart that he built you know I'll let him do it. But this is a reason to buy a new battery rather than an overhauled one now this person has to take this whole complete setup apart to find this.

 

So when this DC voltage becomes unisolated and it is running to the frame of the car can that inadvertently affect say like the parking lights? Make the car run poorly like have a miss at weird speeds? Things like this. Just curious the car does miss sometimes but it's very weird when it happens like right before the triangle come gets ready to come on I can tell when the car is going to set the P0AA6 code I can tell how I don't know I just know It seems to do it mostly when I pull in to park my driveway at the courthouse wherever I seem to be putting on the brakes getting ready to put it in park boom the triangle shows up I leave it turn the car off go do my business. Return use the crappy and over scanner red button twice twice clear clear press the on button the car starts up no dash lights nothing drives until I get to my next stop right when I hit park red triangle repeat.

 

When you say a bad cable the wire just went bad sitting in the car or was the bottom of the car bottomed out scrape the wire tray or what exactly happened The wire just died sitting in the car being used regularly or? I'm seriously interested in how this would happen I guess some of the orange plastic would have to be melted or shaved off and then it touched the car chassis? Turned out mine was the battery itself not the front end but the rack within there somewhere probably a screw that goes on the bottom that holds the modules down I'm not even sure why you need all those screws with the rack and the squeezers the compression blocks bolt down to the battery frame Why do I need every module to have a screw and it seems way overkill The modules can't get through the metal case and most accidents if they're moved in most accidents the cars certainly total

 

On the first Prius, the nut on the relay in the hybrid battery was not properly tightened after repair and the terminal on the relay melted. I tested the hybrid battery cable and it was shorted to ground. The cable was changed and there were no more problems. On the second Prius, I also determined that the cable had a short to ground. I don’t know why this happened and it’s still a mystery to me. I was not the one who replaced the cables on those 2 priuses.

 

So they didn't hand you the damaged part the wire back they just threw it away and put in a nice new one for God knows how much or this wasn't on your watch this happened and was in the glove box on paper? That's what I would want to see is the messed up part to see if we're talking about insulation damage you know the orange part or what I guess wire can just go bad but damn.

 

The cables were replaced with used ones on both Priuses, by other people. I could pick one up and play with it but i had no time for it.

 

So then the wire by appearance did not look damaged the eyelets were intact on each and blah blah blah The physical copper just something happened to it or it was touching something in ground whatever that's all I'm trying to figure out does copper wound wire just