Doing a bunch of repairs, advice and does anyone want to swap cores if I replace hv battery?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Ds001001, Nov 17, 2021.

  1. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    Hi all.. I am driving to so cal next week to a friends place who restores jeeps so I can have access to all the tools i need and help of someone who knows what he is doing.

    I’m replacing:
    3 way coolant valve (p1121 error code)
    Front hub assembly and bearings
    Serpentine belt
    Spark plugs
    Rear brake drum and shoes

    Other things Done over the years:
    All fluids changed (transaxle, inverter and engine coolant) last year
    Inverter and water pumps replaced under warranty like 10 years ago
    Just did new front brake pads and rotors

    I live in Tahoe and my battery is 15 years old with 170k miles. I still get good mileage and haven’t seen any signs of the battery failing soon and dr Prius app says 80% original capacity. I was going to buy a new car, but with the shortages and high prices I’ve decided to drive it at least a couple more years.

    I drive up and steep mountain passes where I can barely hold 40 mph at 3000 rpm and the battery gets to no assist mode a couple miles before it did when the battery was new, and it’s pretty stressful getting tailgated in winter driving in a 50 mph zone so I figure there are quality of life benefits to swapping out the battery plus potentially less ICE wear and tear if I can save a couple hundred rpm a few miles a day and battery is likely to die before I buy a new car now.

    I’m not interested in the lithium or cylindrical cell replacement that is discussed on this site as I’ve seen new replacement ones for $1650 at a few dealers around Cali and I’m comfortable swapping the battery since I did the prolong adapter install last year.

    I’ve read many threads on battery repair people on this site, if I do swap the battery and someone has a core of dead cells and wants mine I would coordinate a swap if willing to assist. Ie you give your complete core to dealer and then take mine. (My attempt to give back to the community since it’s been so helpful over the years)

    Any other part swaps I should do while I have access to tools and mechanic?
     
  2. nancytheprius

    nancytheprius Member

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    This person is from portland it looks like with a dying battery. could be the perfect trade!
     
  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Willing to assist, or tackle the swap alone, and I do have a core of dead 'modules' that you can return to the dealer.
     
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Well if you live in the mountains and the battery gets to cycle completely from empty to full, then the battery is probably not very good anymore. But still worth more than dead modules you're willing to swap for.
     
  5. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    From my experience I don’t think it’s that much different than driving in bumper to bumper city traffic. I did full city to suburb commute in Chicago for years and the total in and out isn’t much different than a single continuous full cycle, which is likely better for memory effect than city driving in a more narrow range of SoC. But yeah I wouldn’t think this would be good for anything other than dead cell emergency use replacement.
     
  6. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    Ok I’ll update / check in when I make the decision, Roseville and Salinas usually have the lowest prices of the nor cal dealers online. Do you have full set with case/controller or would you want to do surgery on my old pack? I’m guessing the dealer won’t take a bag full of cells separate from the case/controller ?
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The battery case is split, the modules on one end, the ECU/relays on another end. You reuse your ecu/relays.
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Isn't oregon a better place to buy? No sales tax, California you're paying 10%
     
  9. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    Online dealers in Oregon aren’t selling for discount from msrp when I’ve looked, and there’s only like 2 dealers in Oregon on the online site in the entire state.
     
  10. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    The purchase from the dealer isn’t a complete replacement of the entire unit ? F04D9273-D7B7-4980-A16D-E9F1354F09BE.png
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The modules and case will be new, you have to swap in the ecu/relays from your own battery pack. The case is split so it's just putting 2 halves together.
     
  12. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    oh cool so this area stays and the two orange wires coming in from the left will be disconnect old / reconnect new ?
    (This isn’t my final setup for the prolong harness if it looks wrong )

    thanks for the info !
    3882FE43-31AC-4A49-8F03-46AA98AA398D.jpeg
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    yes, you will have new bus bars on the new battery that needs to be connected
     
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  14. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    That does make sense that they wouldn’t ship it plug and play , if something goes wrong then potential bad things happen. Good to know thanks for taking the time to reply, I thought it could be something you do in a parking lot , a few wires and fuses for the connection, but sounds like a little more involved so I should coordinate with SFO!
     
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    It is something you can do at a parking lot, but you'll have to be quite familiar to put it together quickly. It's not very complicated.
     
  16. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Might see if @cyberpriusII still has a hookup at the local parts counter, which would also give us a reason to say hello :whistle:

    Though the gas and drive time would eat into any tax savings.
     
  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Active Member

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    I just went to all this and tried to post pictures My dealer told me I was buying a complete battery I knew better but when I got there I had to take the ECU and the front end off the battery to put the my old battery in his styrofoam case because it wouldn't fit with the ECU part on the battery so it's three 10 mm nuts and then I just cut the wires the orange ones because new ones come with the new battery You're not going to reuse the plug the wires that go to the big orange plug so and the wires that go to the relays and all are taped up on the new battery ready to install I couldn't post pictures because my account is whatever I really don't give a crap I have all the pictures anybody that wants them as well to them but you are missing the front end off of your new battery when you get to the dealer you'll see the piece missing and you'll wonder what the hell's going on in the dealer will say oh yeah we forgot to tell you blah blah blah 15 minutes to disassemble it all in the parking lot etc etc My parts guy didn't care he just sat out there and smoked a cigarette

    SM-A715F ?
     
  18. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    When you are taking things apart, you should look very closely at the connector pins on the battery ecu. Corrosion at the voltage sense harness terminals (orange plug) is not uncommon. Damage can sometimes extend to the ecu circuit board.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  19. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    Anyone know what this arm is for ? It looks like it’s supposed to be connected to the sway bar, at the top it’s connected to what looks like a sensor.

    @SFO I ordered battery to pick up Wednesday in Ontario , would ship you the modules, but would have to get yours pretty quickly.

    CC32C1D3-AB74-4FE2-B90F-6A49ABE02476.jpeg
     
  20. Ds001001

    Ds001001 Junior Member

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    Could someone confirm that the wires here still connected to battery are what I will get with new battery ?

    Relay are below not pictured
    2C590040-3EB2-4EE2-A246-84E53DB57D4A.jpeg
     
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