Doing a bunch of repairs, advice and does anyone want to swap cores if I replace hv battery?

Hi all.. I am driving to so cal next week to a friends place who restores jeeps so I can have access to all the tools i need and help of someone who knows what he is doing.

I’m replacing:
3 way coolant valve (p1121 error code)
Front hub assembly and bearings
Serpentine belt
Spark plugs
Rear brake drum and shoes

Other things Done over the years:
All fluids changed (transaxle, inverter and engine coolant) last year
Inverter and water pumps replaced under warranty like 10 years ago
Just did new front brake pads and rotors

I live in Tahoe and my battery is 15 years old with 170k miles. I still get good mileage and haven’t seen any signs of the battery failing soon and dr Prius app says 80% original capacity. I was going to buy a new car, but with the shortages and high prices I’ve decided to drive it at least a couple more years.

I drive up and steep mountain passes where I can barely hold 40 mph at 3000 rpm and the battery gets to no assist mode a couple miles before it did when the battery was new, and it’s pretty stressful getting tailgated in winter driving in a 50 mph zone so I figure there are quality of life benefits to swapping out the battery plus potentially less ICE wear and tear if I can save a couple hundred rpm a few miles a day and battery is likely to die before I buy a new car now.

I’m not interested in the lithium or cylindrical cell replacement that is discussed on this site as I’ve seen new replacement ones for $1650 at a few dealers around Cali and I’m comfortable swapping the battery since I did the prolong adapter install last year.

I’ve read many threads on battery repair people on this site, if I do swap the battery and someone has a core of dead cells and wants mine I would coordinate a swap if willing to assist. Ie you give your complete core to dealer and then take mine. (My attempt to give back to the community since it’s been so helpful over the years)

Any other part swaps I should do while I have access to tools and mechanic?

 

From my experience I don’t think it’s that much different than driving in bumper to bumper city traffic. I did full city to suburb commute in Chicago for years and the total in and out isn’t much different than a single continuous full cycle, which is likely better for memory effect than city driving in a more narrow range of SoC. But yeah I wouldn’t think this would be good for anything other than dead cell emergency use replacement.

 

Ok I’ll update / check in when I make the decision, Roseville and Salinas usually have the lowest prices of the nor cal dealers online. Do you have full set with case/controller or would you want to do surgery on my old pack? I’m guessing the dealer won’t take a bag full of cells separate from the case/controller ?

 

Online dealers in Oregon aren’t selling for discount from msrp when I’ve looked, and there’s only like 2 dealers in Oregon on the online site in the entire state.

 

The purchase from the dealer isn’t a complete replacement of the entire unit ?

 

oh cool so this area stays and the two orange wires coming in from the left will be disconnect old / reconnect new ?
(This isn’t my final setup for the prolong harness if it looks wrong )

thanks for the info !

 

That does make sense that they wouldn’t ship it plug and play , if something goes wrong then potential bad things happen. Good to know thanks for taking the time to reply, I thought it could be something you do in a parking lot , a few wires and fuses for the connection, but sounds like a little more involved so I should coordinate with SFO!

 

Anyone know what this arm is for ? It looks like it’s supposed to be connected to the sway bar, at the top it’s connected to what looks like a sensor.

@SFO I ordered battery to pick up Wednesday in Ontario , would ship you the modules, but would have to get yours pretty quickly.

 

Could someone confirm that the wires here still connected to battery are what I will get with new battery ?

Relay are below not pictured