Dome fuse blowing (interior overhead dome lights, clock, radio, smartkey, vsc)

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Marcilla Smith, Aug 22, 2018.

  1. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    My DOME fuse has now blown 3 times in the last 36 hours, and I'm looking for advice on next steps. Here is more information:

    The vehicle is a 2005 with 267K miles. I purchased it in March 2018. I do not put that many miles on it, but I camp in it, so it idles much more than it would, otherwise.

    Since looking at similar threads led me to some information about wiring behind the glove box, let me begin with some information which may turn out to be completely unrelated.

    Several weeks after purchasing the vehicle, the a/c blower began cutting out. Until I had a chance to get a new one installed, I found that if I tapped on the unit with something heavy (a wrench, in this case), it would jostle the fan just enough that the motor would come on. As it turned out, after a several weeks of this, the fan just started staying on all by itself, even though it is run all night and much of the day, as mentioned earlier.

    Recently, it occurred to me that it's been a month or months since I last had to tap on the blower assembly. Consequently, I decided to reattach the lower glove box, which I had removed in order to facilitate access to the blower.

    A day or two after re-attaching the lower glove box, the fuse blew, cutting out the radio, dome lights, clock, etc. as well as causing the "vsc" warning light to come on. After diagnosing the issue, replacing the fuse, and re-starting the vehicle, everything appeared to have returned to operational. Remembering that I had all 4 of the interior lights tuned on, I made a mental note to avoid doing this, in case that had caused the issue.

    Approximately 24 hours after the fuse first burned out, the new fuse burned out as well. This was last night. I replaced the fuse again, and again everything returned to operational.

    After reading some posts on here from folks having similar issues, I decided to leave the radio off. Now just twelve hours later, the fuse has blown for a third time in 36 hours.

    One culprit I seem to keep seeing people mention, although I'm not certain how it would be involved, is bluetooth. I assume people mean the integrated BT car phone feature. However, it makes me think of a secondary thing I should mention:

    When I purchased the vehicle in March, it came with a 30-pin iPhone plug in the center console. It is wired into the vehicle, but it does not appear to be stock, as far as I can tell. In order to make some use of it, I attached a 30-pin BT dongle so that I can stream Pandora from my phone through the car audio.

    There seems to be some fault in the cable, as it loses connection when it is held in the wrong way. To alleviate this, I secured the cable such that it stopped cutting out, and stashed it between the center console and the floor of the vehicle. It has worked fine the past few months. It makes a high pitched whine which becomes audible when the vehicle volume is high but there is no audio. I chalked this up to a poor cable attached to a cheap dongle, and figure at some point I'll just install a new stereo with integrated BT audio.

    At this point, I, thinking I need to:
    1. Try removing the lower glove box before replacing the fuse to see if that makes a difference.
    2. Pull out my Techstream to see if there are any codes.
    3. Pull the center console back out and see about rewiring what's underneath back to factory specs. (But... how???)
    Any other thoughts on this will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for contributing to PriusChat!
     
  2. bobodaclown

    bobodaclown Member

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    It sounds like this started happening when you put the glove box back in, I would check for pinched wires or such.
     
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  3. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Thanks, Bobo! That makes sense.

    Before I've had the chance to check back in, there have been new developments:
    1. after removing the lower glove box, I replaced the DOME fuse. It immediately blew.
    2. after driving to work, parking for 2 hours, idling for 10 mins, sitting for 2 more hours, then driving from work to the grocery store, when starting the vehicle to leave from the store, now all of the dash is off (speedo, etc)
    I am about to search for more info on this second issue, then maybe check all those wires behind where the glove box used to be.

    :: crosses fingers ::
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    probably a bad multi information display or low 12v.

    if you are going to diy, get tech stream diagnostic software and subscribe to the service manual. the trouble codes and wiring schematics will lead you to the culprit in an efficient manner, instead of guessing, trial and error.
     
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  5. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Thanks, Bisco.

    When you say "multi information display," is that the same as the combination meter?

    Reading other posts, it seems that it is failing and needs to be replaced
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    exactly. i can never keep them straight, different generations.
     
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  7. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    The combination meter has gone back to working... albeit the car occasionally adds a random horn honk when it is started, and the fuel gauge will go from 6 bars when shut off, back to 10 when restarted. Reading other threads, it seems I can expect the CM to continue to deteriorate like this until I replace it.

    Now I'm left wondering if I need to replace the CM first, then see if the DOME fuse is still an issue, or if these are coincidental only, and I can fix the DOME issue first, then deal with the CM (I miss interior lights, clock, and the stereo!)
     
  8. ITBland

    ITBland Active Member

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    The first step I would take would be to remove the known bad component, the 30-pin adapter connected to the radio. That wire includes power, and you know it is shorting the audio, so it is possible that it is also shorting the power wire in there. Look for posts on replacing the radio, that cable is likely plugged into an otherwise spare 12-pin connector on the back of the radio. It is possible to get to it without pulling the radio, but it is only 4 more screws to get the radio loose after disassembly of the dash, so I would do it (and be able to see the condition of other wires back there).
     
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  9. ITBland

    ITBland Active Member

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  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. The DOME fuse is 15A. I just want to confirm that you are installing a 15A replacement fuse?
    2. As you have experienced, the DOME fuse provides power to many circuits, not just the interior lighting. So it will not be easy to figure out exactly what is causing the problem.
    3. The aftermarket wiring is certainly a suspect. However by its nature, it may not be easy for you to figure out how to reverse that. The DOME fuse is always powered on, so that is a good place for aftermarket wiring to tap into if the intention is for the item to be powered up at all times.
    4. The combination meter ECU receives power from the DOME fuse. This is why the fuel gauge indication resets whenever the fuse blows.
    5. The steering sensor also receives power from the DOME fuse. This is part of the skid control ECU wiring. That is probably why the VSC warning light comes on.
     
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  11. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Thank you for the feedback. As it turns out, I somehow learned to live without while being distracted by other things in life and with the Prius.

    Turning back to it now: I decided some pics might help:


    Above is the cable of the suspect 30 pin connector where it disappears beneath the carpet under the center console.


    This shows some text on the side of the cable, for however much that may or may not help.


    Finally, this shows other wires. These other wires lead up to the rear of the underside of the center console. Do these look right?

    Returning to the 30 pin wire, can I try just cutting it? I've had the dash apart before in order to replace the combination meter, however I'd prefer to so that step, if possible
     
  12. Szab Laci

    Szab Laci New Member

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    Hi ! did you solve the problem?
     
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  13. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Hi! I put it back on hold, hoping someone would maybe step in and say, "oh, I see what they did... just take the ????-colored wire and attach it to the..." That doesn't seem to be materializing, however.

    Therefore, I think I am left to just cut the 30 pin wire, install a new fuse, and see what happens.

    ...unless you had some other idea :: raises eyebrow hopefully ::
     
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  14. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    So far (24 hours later), what has happened is that I got back my interior lights, radio, clock, fuel gauge memory, and lost the "VSC" dash light.

    The one thing not back to "normal" so far is the keyless ignition. I'm having to insert my fob into the slot in the dash. Presumably, I have neglected to reconnect a connector under the center console :: shrugs ::
     
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  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    There is an aerial for the SKS at the back of the console behind the rear cupholders that detects whether the key is inside the car. Check whether that is all connected properly.
     
  16. John McG.

    John McG. Junior Member

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    Make sure you simply didn't push the button under the steering wheel that disables the remote key.
     
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  17. John McG.

    John McG. Junior Member

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    IF you still have issues, I suggest not to cut anything. Likely to introduce more issues. I would have extra fuses ready, and try starting the car without any of the connectors on the radio. IF the fuse blows, its another load on the circuit (there are a number of them). IF it doesn't blow than replace each of the connectors including the antenna one at a time checking to see if the fuse has blown after each connection.
     
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  18. Marcilla Smith

    Marcilla Smith Active Member

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    Thank you! It works now :: blushes ::
     
  19. Szab Laci

    Szab Laci New Member

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    Hi ! did you solve the problem? does the car work? please tell me what was the problem? how did you solve it? thank you in advance !!!!!!!!!
     
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  20. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    It would seem the "Disable SKS" button was pressed in to disable the SKS. They pressed the "Disable SKS" button a second time to ensure it was in the "out" position, thereby ensuring SKS was no longer disabled.
     
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