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Door check possibly bad?

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by mintprius, Aug 17, 2020.

  1. mintprius

    mintprius Junior Member

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    I feel like the prius c drivers door on our 2013 opens way too far, almost 90*. It scares my wife because it feels like you are losing control of the door, and its easy to hit parked cars.

    Looking through forums, i see some prius owners complaining and apparently it was a toyota problem with many of their vehicles 15 years ago. I saw the part refereed to as a "door check". The passenger door does not go out as far, im pretty sure.

    Is this normal? or should i spend the $80 to buy a new one (part number appears to be 924924). Anyone else seeing this behaviour? Is it adjustable? trying not to have to take the door apart unless it is adjustable, or i am ready to replace it.

    maybe someone has seen this before. thanks!

    drivers1.JPG drivers2.JPG
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What most people complain of with the door check is wearing out and not holding the door strongly enough at its partly-opened positions. You can see the two dimply spots in your door check near the middle there; when you're opening or closing the door, it should be able to stop at either dimply spot and not swing out or slam on you on a light hill or in a light breeze.

    In your case, it sounds like you are more concerned about how far the door swings out for max open. That hasn't been the usual complaint, but I bet you could fix it by buying some thickish rubber sheet at the hardware store and cutting some squares of it with slits, and taking the door trim off and slipping the rubber squares over the inside end of that check, until it stops the door where you want it to.
     
  3. mintprius

    mintprius Junior Member

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    oh yeah there is no resistance whatsoever when you open the door. So yeah those first positions are gone, it does not sit open except fully extended. Thanks for the idea about rubber, but i think i will go with a new replacement part first. Trying to stay as stock as possible on this one as its so nice.

    ill post back if it solves the problem when i replace it.
     
  4. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    I suggest that you first inspect it CLOSELY and compare it's operation to the passenger side door.
    It is possible that a bolt has come loose (or similar) OR that it has been opened too far and a mounting point is bent.
     
  5. mintprius

    mintprius Junior Member

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    Did the repair today. Exact same as pretty much every other car door i have ever worked on. Didn't break any clips.

    Basically,

    1.) Remove door switches and bezel from armrest.
    IMG_5458.JPG


    2.) remove three screws that secure door inner panel.
    IMG_5460.JPG

    3.) use trim removal tool to remove door panel carefully. Need to push out the two flexible rods (thanks toyota!) before removing inner panel .
    IMG_5461.JPG

    4.) peel back water barrier just a bit (sticky).
    IMG_5462.JPG

    5.) crack all nuts. The hardest part. There was locktite (blue) on the body side bolt. The other two came off easy. Locktite required impact to break it free. They obviously didnt want that bolt going anywhere!
    IMG_5465.JPG

    6.) undo all and compare. As you can see old one was absolutely destroyed. Both shown in natural resting state.
    IMG_5466.JPG

    7.) reassembly is reverse of removal. (I did not end up needing the mallet)
    IMG_5467.JPG IMG_5468.JPG

    Results: The door now sticks at various positions as i dictate and holds there.
    Time to complete repair was about 30 minutes. super easy, as everything has been on this toyota. I love it.

    Does anyone have the torque spec for the body bolt? because it had locktite i am interested in it specifically, and i dont have a haynes manual, so those are the little bits i am missing from a perfect repair.
     
  6. Tien Nguyen

    Tien Nguyen New Member

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    does the new one suppose to move like the old one? I’m trying to install a new on but it’s too long. Am I suppose to wield through the holes?
     
  7. mintprius

    mintprius Junior Member

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    The metal part was the same size yes.
    if you mean weld, then no. No welds or rivets were needed only bolts. If you mean wield, as in move it or negotiate it though the door, then yes. I dont remember it being onerous.. is it the same part number? when you pull them out do they look similar? in my picture it looks longer because the rubber is busted but the metal is the same size. good luck.