DTC P3107-214 code wont go away

The Repair Manual (available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com and also on the ChiltonLibrary service, to which many public libraries provide free access) lists “Wire harness or connector” as a possible trouble area, along with the two ECUs.

The detection condition for P3107 with INF code 214 is “Open or short to +B in the communication circuit,” and if you’ve already replaced both ECUs and attempted to clear the DTC, but it returns, the most likely remaining cause is the wiring.

Have you done all of the wiring checks in the troubleshooting procedure?

 

Keep in mind that the problem could be a short to B+ (i.e., to the 12-volt supply), rather than an open.

The procedure has you check not only that there is continuity (resistance < 1 Ω) between the two ECUs, that is, from L5-29 (ABFS) on the Power Management Control ECU to L16-14 (GSW2) on the Airbag ECU Assembly, but also that neither of those terminals is shorted to body ground, and with the AM2 and IGCT NO. 2 fuses removed, connector L16 disconnected, and the power switch off, that there is no continuity (resistance ≥ 10 kΩ) between L5-29 and any of twelve other terminals, which would indicate a short to B+:

• A21-2 (+B2)
• A22-5 (+B1)
• L5-1 (AM22)
• L6-7 (AM21)
• A22-6 (MREL)
• A22-1 (IG2)
• L6-1 (ACCD)
• L6-2 (IG1D)
• A22-2 (IG2D)
• L5-14 (SPDI)
• A21-16 (GI)
• A21-4 (FCTL)

There are also some other steps, too numerous to summarize here.

I do, but the copyright laws prevent my posting it verbatim. The Repair Manual and Electrical Wiring Diagram are available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com. Most of the text and illustrations are also on the ChiltonLibrary service, to which your local public library might sponsor access for its patrons.

 

Have you unhooked the 12v, a hard boot to erase the codes?

 

Did you remove the two fuses I mentioned (AM2 and IGCT NO. 2) and disconnect L16 before making the measurements?

 

Under 10 kΩ, or over 10 kΩ? Between L5-29 and each of the twelve terminals, under the specified conditions, the resistance is expected to be at least 10 kΩ. If it’s less, then there is probably a short.

 

If you haven’t already, I’d suggest reviewing the Repair Manual procedure, to be sure of the test conditions. If you’ve followed the steps correctly, this is definitely not the expected result.

 

“Specified Condition” is what you should find when you do the procedure if there is nothing wrong with the car.

This isn’t the car’s normal, working condition, though, since the procedure has you turn the power switch off, remove fuses, and disconnect a connector before making the measurements.

 

I have done everything but no luck.

Anyone can help me to troubleshoot P3107-214 on my Prius 2010? Toyota dealer is saying it might take few days , they will charge $120/hr till they find. Any help will be appreciable. I am not sure where to find the pinout to L16 and all. I have located one module under the passenger seat and one under the gear shifter. Please help me. Thanks in advance

 

results?