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Earthships

Discussion in 'Environmental Discussion' started by 2007blueprius, Jan 3, 2014.

  1. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Very much this.
     
  2. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    SHGC is percentage of possible solar heat transmitted.


    Clear glass has SHGC of about 0.85
    US made double pane lo-e windows have a SHGC of about 0.3
    Some passivhaus rated triple pane lo-e windows have a SHGC of about 0.5
    Polyolefin plastic film has a SHGC of about 0.9 (which is what I use in interior storm windows). It does more therefore than just eliminate (actually reduce) drafts. It is adding another layer of still air (interior storms add TWO layers of still air).

    This is why you and I want the triple panes, and Sagebrush wants the doubles (if we are basing in SHGC alone).
     
  3. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    A window with a U value of 0.3 (R = 3.3) will lose 0.3 * 6890 Heating Degree Days (HDD) = 2067 BTUs / ft^2 / year, of heat loss.

    HDD is for Kellogg airport.
     
  4. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Sure. Things get tricky when you start adding coatings, etc. For example the difference between soft-coat lo-e and hard-coat lo-e, is very important (particularly for SHGC, as opposed to visible transmission).
     
  5. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Oh, sh1t. I completely missed this. How dumb of me.


    Thanks for pointing it out.
     
  6. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    ok couple things, low e coatings are to reject radiation right? a plain sheet of glass is 0.85 a double pane I assume 0.85x0.85 and the plastic on top of that 0.85x0.85x0.9 = 0.65 woaw, did not realize plain glass could block that much solar radiation, but I guess one must compromize got to have windows can't just leave it wide open, and this should be best case scenario clear glass no coatings if we are talking about gain only.

    now it has been mentioned that a plain double pane will loose 6 w due to poor insulating value, actually lets assume R2 plain glass, so u is 0.5, loss is 0.5*22= 11w, ok rough idea 242wh/day, how much heat would they gain in say 3 hours of sunlight ( my average ) 6 max in winter, I think one of the numbers I came across is 2400Wx3, the loss is 3 % of the gain, now granted I am aproximating a lot and some may argue that even if I could figure out a way to do this every minute, I can't see the end result beeing that far off to the point where heat loss will be more than gain or even close.

    on the other end getting tripple panes you are cutting into the gain by 30 % ( 0.65 compared to 0.50 ), I know I am no expert nor authority on the matter but I don't get it, Id rather loose insulation a r 10 window would loose 0.1x22=2.2w x 24 hours =52.8w so ok a plain double pane will loose about 190w more per day at least in theory but also gains 2160 w more in only 3 hours of sunshine per day, so how do the fancy tripple panes make sense? honest question.

    granted this math is rough and likely wrong somewhere, but still the gains are in the order of KW while the losses W, furthermore this is for 1 squate meter, I am looking at roughly 4 meters high 30 meters long, 120sq, again rough guess

    not sure what that translates to btus/day or what my current house burns in comparison, I am starting to get a hang of this at least some understanding of, but I can't justify any treatment on any glass at this time, heck single panes on the outside may even apeal more with a layer of plastic to reduce any draft ( well lets not talk about that yet )
     
  7. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Blue, I'm sorry but I have introduced an error in your calculation (but congrats on getting the hang of it)

    I did not realize that the U values I was quoting were for American units. It might be easier to first figure in btu, then convert to Wh per time_period. E.g,
    1000 HDD in your coldest month, 0.5 U value double pane clear glass window:
    1000*0.5 = 500 btu per SF per month
    = 500*10.76 = 5380 btu per square_meter per month
    = 5380/30 = 180 btu per square_meter per day

    Convert btu to Wh:
    180/3.14 = 57 Wh (per square_meter per day)
     
  8. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I was going for metric I thought, honestly I find it much simpler, still losses are measured in w gains in KW large difference to come up negative, I'll have to look into it and see about some proper math just for gigs
     
  9. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    OK, now that we have heat loss (pending Corwyn' s blessing of the arithmetic), let's look at heat gain for a double pane:
    The tables are from PVWATTS. I set
    • 'DC rating' to 0.8 to mean an 800 watt irradiation
    • Derate to 0.7 to mean SHGC of 0.7
    • South facing
    • Vertical orientation
    Detroit-pvwatts.png


    Reading from the AC column, in January you can expect 59 kWh of solar heat gain that month, or about 2000 Wh a day from each square_meter of window. This also suggests to me that triple pane are not worth the money, even in your locale. However, Corwyn may yet find another error ...

    Addendum: PVWATTS was set to a derate of 0.77 by accident -- I meant 0.7. So heat gain will be about 10% less -- 1800 Wh a day in January from each square meter of window.
     
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  10. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Definitely end up in watts, since PVwatts uses those units.
    It's just that the heat loss spec for American bought windows are in btu/hour*SF*F
     
  11. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    some of these notions are still new and unclear to me like the DC rating, I am assuming solar output somehow, still 2000wh is a lot lees than my rough math but compared to a 250wh loss, it's still a considerable gain, now lets see for tripples at shgc of .5

    I got 36 kw roughly 1.2kw/day- 50 w loss 1150w total for fancy expensive tripples versus cheap -> free misscuts/recycled old doubles 1750 net gain, so why spend the money and import them from germany? again honest question which one would you rather compromize the insulation of a glass wall or the gain?
     
  12. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I love this further more if you put in a 65 degree tilt as I had originally you get slightly less in januarry and 150% in june, not good
     
  13. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    you lost me here, I think it was 1300HDD on a 75Fbase, that is roughly where my house stays and the code requires I think 74 so that is a more acurate base temp, 0.5 I asume that us the u value, inverse if R2, so you got 500 btu/sqft/januarry, 10.76 sqft in a sqmeter/30 I got it so a double pane is responsible for 57wh/sq meter/day, that it? in retrospect a triple may be responsible for 10wh, 40 wh woopty do big difference, compared to gain, I get it in a true passihause hey don't take into account solar gain, most of that philosopy is arround insulation and minimising losses but even if you want to look at it that way a plain south window has a net gain that is better than insulation in my book, we'll see what Corwin has to say
     
  14. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I am hijacking PVwatts for our use. It was labeled to let people estimate AC electricity production from PV panels, but the physics are analogous. The reason to use it is two-fold:

    The trigonometry of the moving sun is accounted for; and
    local cloud cover is estimated from historical data.

    If you want to play with other scenarios, just change the SHGC in the Derate field, and orientation if that changes. Voila!

    Energy is energy ;)
     
  15. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I think code is only meant in this case to size a furnace. Part of the idea behind PassivHaus (PH) is to do without (or with less) conventional AC, and plow the savings into insulation and HRV (or ERV.)

    So sure, you can use 75F as your steady-state interior temperature to model heat loss from your windows; but without a furnace how will you get there ? That is why Corwyn (and PH, for that matter) use software to model heat gain, heat loss, and thermal mass.
     
  16. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Btw Blue, you might also want to consider the issue of weight with your windows. Figure 3-pane will weigh some 50% more than 2-pane. My 6 x 4 feet fixed windows were pretty damn heavy, even for two people to install.
     
  17. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    On the subject of orientation ...

    I didn't have a choice, my house is built and the best wall for sun gain faces SE. That has annoyed me for a while, but it has actually turned out to be (or will be) a very good thing (TM).

    This picture is from inside the house*, and hopefully you can see the slope up to my neighbor's home. It is about 30 ft from my windows to the wall in the background.

    Sunroom.JPG

    For next winter I am going to 'plant' what I call a 'solar garden.' I envision a forest of small poles with reflective material attached. This way my windows will have heat gain from direct sunlight in the AM, reflected sunlight in the afternoon, and a combination of both in the early afternoon hours from morning to dusk. I can turn my home into a solar oven, if I wanted to ;)


    In warmer seasons I will rotate the poles to 'off.'
    Since I can rotate as many or few poles desired, I have easy control of heat gain year round.

    *The eagle eyed will notice that the window trim is not finished. My wife has decided that saws do not belong in the house, so completion is waiting for warmer weather.
     
  18. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Blue has remarked a couple of times that fenestration is not an important part of PH. I think that is in general not true, but it does depend on climate. I know that if I lived in a really cold and cloudy climate and was building from scratch, I would seriously consider a ground heat pump.
     
  19. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I apologize for not shutting up ... this topic is dear to my heart.

    There is a fundamental difference between heating up a room to a comfortable temperature using solar gain, and using sunlight for comfort. It can be experienced by placing a thermometer outside in the shade and then in the sunlight.

    In my sunroom it is chilly in the early hours of the day but extremely comfortable because we sit in direct sunlight until we get too hot or the room heats up -- whichever comes first ;)
    The room starts out the day at 54-58 F in the shade, but about 80F opposite the window. By the time the direct sunlight is gone (to be prolonged however, as I mentioned), the room temp is about 65F and it stays comfortable (for us) another hour or three.

    Cloudy days of course require a different solution.

    From my perspective, the problem with many an opinion on the internet about windows is that people assume that the source energy is internal to the building (e.g., a furnace) so they emphasize the U value over the SHGC and ignore the benefit of direct sunlight.
     
  20. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Exactly.

    We will yet turn you into a modeler :)